A rebuild of #miRustyJeep...

Been picking away at the jeep between getting the flu a week ago and Christmas parties. This is the slow part of a project for me, as I'm repairing and refinishing those items that I've not touched before, like the CC solenoid bracket, horn bracket, etc.

Yesterday, I did finalize the install of my cooler and bolted the condenser back into the grill shell. I also bolted the intake and exhaust manifolds back on. Had to order some new (well, refurbished) fuel injectors and a new fuel rail.

Why new injectors?

Number 3 looks like this.

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And since they should all be balanced, I made the decision to replace them all.

The fuel rail was full of corrosion (yeah, shocker). Its also bent. I contemplated cleaning it up and painting it, but I found a NOS one for less than 200 dollars shipped. It would have bothered me, especially since I've already replaced the O-Rings on these injectors and they are REALLY chewed up again. I assume it was the corrosion.

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So, that stuff should all be delivered this week. I also had to fire up my home plating set-up. The wide, heavy Bellevue washers that pin the intake and exhaust manifolds to the head were in REALLY bad shape. I'm just not going to pay dealer prices for hardware like that (I didn't even look to see if they were available) so I cleaned em up and re-plated them.

Here they are originally.

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After a quick trip through the sandblaster and wire wheel they were nice and shiny again...but raw steel. Dripped in the plating bath, you can see the electrolysis taking place (the bubbles)

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And after plating. The process is pretty quick (less than 5 minutes per). They are kind of a dull gray, which is how you know the zinc has transfered.
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After a quick wipe with some SimiChrome to polish the zinc

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Add some new, Grade 8 3/8-16 x 1.25" bolts and things are good as new

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More to come, but I'm getting close to putting the big parts back on again.

I need to learn how to plate bolts. Thanks for giving me more to learn. 😫
 
Well, it activates the lockers…

Lol, the system is programmed to trigger both lockers from a single, momentary contact switch. Rear locks first, then front, and only if your in 4low, and going 5 mph or slower, etc. I’m one of those weirdos that likes to have the indicators in the dash work too, so the easiest way to achieve independent control is to hijack the signal off the factory switch. The safety stuff will be bypassed, and the switches will trigger the pumps through the relays and pcm like normal (I think). Until it’s hooked up and working, I’m only making shit up in my mind

I guess I was confused by the fact you have a front & rear locker switch so I wasn't sure what the stock switch still did. I've modified my ARB wiring harness so I can turn on either the front or rear locker now. I haven't had a dash light since I installed my STaK's. It was extra to machine it for the 4WD indicator and I figured I could look at levers just as easy.
 
I guess I was confused by the fact you have a front & rear locker switch so I wasn't sure what the stock switch still did. I've modified my ARB wiring harness so I can turn on either the front or rear locker now. I haven't had a dash light since I installed my STaK's. It was extra to machine it for the 4WD indicator and I figured I could look at levers just as easy.

It will still be there, taking it out would be difficult and and not sure it’s worth the squeeze. Right now, I have it set up to lock the axles in any transfer case position, but I’m so sick of using the single switch to control the two axles, I have to do something different.
 
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Removing the crank bushing was by far the worst part of my swap, which isn’t the worst thing in the world when you think about it. That slide hammer was my friend for a good 20-30 minutes
 
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It’s a small thing, but man, does this feel good

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I'm still plucking away at the little details it takes to make all this new stuff work. Last couple of days, I've had my dash ripped half apart, looking for the connectors to make the NSS talk to the PCM. I have that all complete now, and the harnesses wrapped back up. Started re-wrapping the main harness last night, and should finish that up tonight, so I can get my wiring reinstalled. The transmission should go back in this weekend...and then its a pretty quick process to get it back to running (I hope, anyway). Still have a couple finishing touches to put on my cooler plumbing and I need to run a few wires for the trans gage, my locker switches, and the rear locker sensor.

@Wranglerfix will have my PCM on Friday for reprogramming to go from a Manual to an Auto...the end is in sight and I'm getting excited!


Oh, and I'm still buying stuff. Picked up a new Walker quiet flow muffler and tailpipe to replace the magnaflow that was on its last legs. The muffler case had already split and I welded it back together once. The two piece tailpipe was leaking and it was just time. I've also been looking for the Savvy Bull bar / winch protector to come back in stock. We all know how that is going. I ran across a conversation between @rasband and @Sunny Side Up about the Barnes winch protector. I looked that up and it's now on its way. If @Sunny Side Up would not mind sharing files for the mounting tabs, it would be appreciated.

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This pic might not mean much to anyone but me...but its HUGE to me.

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These tags are coming off, because my wire harness is being installed. I'm about 50% done, but ran into an issue with my MAP sensor I need to research. I'd like to replace it, because the body of my sensor is cracked (tho it still works). Trouble is, the Mopar sensor for an 04 is NLA. However, the Mopar sensor for an 03 IS available...and since my engine harness is from an 03, I have the correct connector (which is the only way I figured this out to begin with). So, I need to figure out if the sensor from 03 will work with my 04. My gut tells me yes, it will. MAP sensors are just a 0-5v signal and as long as the pin-out is correct, I should be fine.

Transmission is next to go in, once I figure this out. Big pieces are going back together, which means I must be close!
 
Maybe I missed this, but why not just swap in the correct plug to keep it year specific?

*Edit* nvm just saw where you said it was cracked.

We need pics!!!!