New owner: what did I get myself into?

EMurray

New Member
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Feb 1, 2023
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Location
SW MO
I've owned over 70 cars of all makes and eras. Somehow, never a Wrangler though. A gaping hole in my automotive experience. I corrected it today, finally! I found a '97 2.5 5-speed with 170k and its share of bumps and bruises. It has a 4" lift, but still the 31's. They are pretty worn, so I'll be moving to 33's in the very near future.

I went to drive the truck at lunch today and walked away impressed and disappointed. Impressed at the condition of the steel. There is no rust whatsoever on the truck, including underneath and in the engine bay. The top is in really nice condition and seat covers, which I figured hid ugliness, are just protecting nice seats. But it was downright terrifying to drive above 40mph. It wandered all over the road. And, no exaggeration, I could see 6 different repairs completely solely with zip ties. I said I'd think about it, then called him back with a lower price. He accepted and even brought it on a trailer to me since the drive was mostly highway and neither of us wanted to die today.

I spent a couple hours crawling around it tonight. Here are the findings.
  • Toe in on the front is nearly 2". That's right, TWO INCHES of toe in. That can't be helping the handling :LOL: It needs new tie rod ends, anyway, so I'll do them this weekend, then align.
  • Compression testing gave readings from 155 to 180 (cold motor, all plugs out, on battery charger, throttle open, crank until stable). Seems good to me.
  • Plugs looked even and good. All gapped right.
  • The muffler is a universal with the outlet at the wrong place, so it's just hanging there. Whatever. But the front is clamped above the big tray (I'm sure you have the proper name for it...) and hanging on so loose I think a good pothole would make it fall off completely. I figured that was the case when driving it and hearing the massive exhaust leak under me.
  • The top was supposedly nearly new (and looks it, honestly). But the two zippers I tried to move were in terrible condition. I don't think I'm going to be able to take the top off without risking destroying zippers. Which sucks since I planned to do that this summer.
I'll put some pictures below for your evaluation. The motor is grimy and could use a gasket or two. The body has bumps and dents and hilariously bad paint on the hood.

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We see these type threads constantly- these are simple coil spring/pan hard bar/ control arm suspensions with conventional y type steering (if that term is right).

It’s 100 percent fixable, start with using the search engine to dry test the steering.
 
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Can you post up more pics of the suspension and under belly. You also need to figure out why the crankcase venting system has been plugged up as well.
 
I hope it’s just a incompletely visualized modified track bar bracket, but it looks like the bolt is gone that attaches your rear track bar to the axle. If so, DO NOT drive until that is fixed.

View attachment 396997

You can see the track bar, yeah that is. It connected there. Tons of fun on the highway I bet.

I’d wanna get that bolted in, ha.

I’d also check the current caster, not that I have a specific # in mind, but is it crazy low.

Also, if this previous owner left track bars unbolted, I’d do a full suspension check, dry steering you name it.
 
Ok, wow. You guys are on top of things. Nice! To answer some questions and ask a few more:

JustDandee: Yep, it's a '64 Scout I'm restoring. Rust replacement is done, and body work is about 80% finished. I'm hoping to have it on the road late summer. The Jeep is to satisfy that itch and act as an appetizer for the brutal simplicity that is a 60's Scout.

Blackjack: Any ideas why somebody would plug that? Both halves of the hose are there, but with bolts to plug them. Also, the genius PO used zip ties in place of hose clamps several places. :rolleyes: Those will be going.

Woodrow: Uhhhh, good call... Holy crap, how did I not notice the missing bolt?! You may have just saved me from a really bad day. THANK YOU! That will be fixed before the truck moves. Yikes

Charles and Mike: I assumed it was still the 2.5L. That doesn't look right? Guess I'll be doing some research. Now I really do wonder what I bought...

What else should I be checking that's specific to Wranglers? I've always be a car guy, rather than 4x4 guy, so I'm a little new to the world. I'll follow up on any hints, tips, or suggestions you all may have. Thanks for the great welcome to the community.
 
I hope it’s just a incompletely visualized modified track bar bracket, but it looks like the bolt is gone that attaches your rear track bar to the axle. If so, DO NOT drive until that is fixed.

View attachment 396997

Stock spring with a spacer and a bent/damaged bump stop? How is that spring not launching out?

Welcome to WTF. You can take that as Wrangler TJ Forum, or however you like! First order of business will be to un-f*** all the issues that can be seen, at the same time doing all the maintenance... every fluid and filter, as well as probably other expendables...

From all the knowledge here, you may want to limit yourself to a 2-3 inch lift, and 31's on a 4cyl...
 
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I wondered about the spacers. Is that all the guy did for the lift? The only vehicle I've ever lifted was a '75 Scout (not coil springs). If this isn't done properly, I want to know so I can fix it.

Also, I had planned to go to 33's since the 31's look silly with the lift. Will that make the 2.5 too much of a dog to be useable? The plan is to use this on-road the majority of the time.
 
I wondered about the spacers. Is that all the guy did for the lift? The only vehicle I've ever lifted was a '75 Scout (not coil springs). If this isn't done properly, I want to know so I can fix it.

Also, I had planned to go to 33's since the 31's look silly with the lift. Will that make the 2.5 too much of a dog to be useable? The plan is to use this on-road the majority of the time.

Check what gearing you have to help you decide this, unless you want to have a certain sized tire and are open to a regear. There may be a tag on the diff cover that tells you the gearing, but you can jack the rear end up and spin the tires and count how many times the rear driveshaft turns to make sure the tag is correct.

Here is a thread on how to check this:

https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/how-do-i-determine-my-axle-gear-ratio.72/
 
I wondered about the spacers. Is that all the guy did for the lift? The only vehicle I've ever lifted was a '75 Scout (not coil springs). If this isn't done properly, I want to know so I can fix it.

Also, I had planned to go to 33's since the 31's look silly with the lift. Will that make the 2.5 too much of a dog to be useable? The plan is to use this on-road the majority of the time.
I mean... a lot of guys will say that spacers are ok... hell, I have 1.5 inch spacers in the front on my Gladiator to level it, I don't like them though...

That said, Yours is all a spacer lift, front and rear, that looks like it's not done correctly. The front sway bar links were never changed out, meaning there is a good chance of flipping the sway bar if the axle ever droops fully., The afore mentioned appearance of the rear springs. The missing trackbar bolt in the rear (trackbar keeps the axle centered under the vehicle... panhard bar is another name).

There are a lot of threads on here about tires and lifts on the 4cyls, and they all really point out that to run much over a 31 re-gearing with steep ratios is needed, and it still isn't that great. If you look at mine in my profile pic, that is a 2005 X with a 4.0, stock suspension on 31's. It's a little tight, and in the right situation it has a slight rub, but it's hardly ever in that situation. I will need gears and lift to go to 33's. Take time and research the 4cyl and tires.
 
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