05 Flame Red TJ Build

erokj said:
I'm a Ray Charles welder like the rest of us, but are your welds hot enough?
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Everybody keeps saying, "Are your welds hot enough?" What are you seeing to conclude that, so I can understand?

I'm going to take it they are not hot enough. After the last time someone asked me that, I decided to increase the amperage a notch above the recommendation for 3/16". I believe my welder was set at 130 or 140A for these passes. I'm using .030 wire.

EDIT: Did a little reading. Said a beginners mistake is not going slow enough and not getting enough penetration, resulting in a cold weld. I still don't know how to identify that though, apart from a break test.
 
Let me start off by saying, I'm not an expert. I'm a "self taught" welder.

The overall shape of your bead tells me somethings up.

weld-bead-appearance-mig-settings.jpg
 
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Posting this immediately after your chart so I and others can evaluate. Thanks!
 
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All 4 Wheelin' said:
Other factors that may be at play, angle of torch to work, no more than 15 deg to line of travel. Direction of travel, are you pushing or dragging.
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I try to keep my work angle at 45*, my travel angle at 45* and drag the pool. Just like this pic. Blaine told me to do this. I also try to keep the torch steady and not make e's or c's, just smooth movement. Due to space constraints, it is sometimes hard to keep those angles.

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JMT said:
I try to keep my work angle at 45*, my travel angle at 45* and drag the pool. Just like this pic. Blaine told me to do this. I also try to keep the torch steady and not make e's or c's, just smooth movement. Due to space constraints, it is sometimes hard to keep those angles.

View attachment 402092
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From my millermatic owner's manual

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I’m fabbing some rear lower shock extensions. It started off as an idea to fix my sons TJR after the 4” lift we did over New Year’s. We thought about buying the Barnes brackets and just cutting off the stock mounts and welding them on. But he doesn’t want to spend $60. I have the Currie extensions, and I could do the Barnes, but I suspect I’m going to outboard eventually, so what’s the point? I am going to move my Currie’s over to his rig and weld extensions similar to Clayton and Currie on to my rig.

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I'm no pro, but that weld didn't penetrate. Its kinda piled on the body mount vs being burned in. If you look at the other side of the body mount in that same picture, the difference is pretty obvious to me. Its probably more a tip angle and approach problem vs a welder setting, since that one is the inside of the bracket vs the outside.
 
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Mike_H said:
View attachment 402846

I'm no pro, but that weld didn't penetrate. Its kinda piled on the body mount vs being burned in. If you look at the other side of the body mount in that same picture, the difference is pretty obvious to me. Its probably more a tip angle and approach problem vs a welder setting, since that one is the inside of the bracket vs the outside.
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I better make another pass. Thanks for the insight. I think that’s the weld where I fell off the line. I don’t have a good feel for what speed I should move the torch. 🙄
 
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Wildman said:
And look at all the projects you're doing for someone who wasn't sure he'd use a welder enough to justify buying one...

Keep at it you're doing a great job and making parts now instead of buying. YAH....
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I can only aspire to your ingenuity. Really, it’s an inspiration to watch! Thank you.
 
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My attempt to fab rear shock extensions was a bust. I got into it just to move my Currie extensions over to my sons TJR. The extension was already damaged. The sheet metal is just too thin.

1209D401-C042-4437-A4B1-0EE9D0CDB997.jpeg


I tried to fab up some better extensions out of 3/16”, but they were slightly too narrow. 2 hours wasted. I have a greater appreciation for those that fab up brackets, particularly good ones and not crap. I decided to reinforce the Currie’s, but while I did this I learned something. This is a waste of time, except learning more about welding and why the top shock mount location sucks.

I tried to build up some weld on one extension by making several passes and grinding it all flat, like is sometimes done on the bottom of a diff. It worked, but it was too much work for too little gain.



4C4E5013-20CA-45E0-8003-427F331D60E3.jpeg


I cut some 3/16” and welded it to the bottom and used the grinder to make it a smooth ramp, like a mini skid.

A82EE931-52DF-445C-AA39-09CC6B40D649.jpeg

This was much better. Seamless after the grinder! Looks stock. Way heavier!

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After all that I learned that rear shock extensions to clear the axle just is not a real solution. If you need it to get you by for awhile that’s fine, but the real answer is to outboard. blackjack brought the idea to my attention in January, and when you take time to look at the whole situation you realize that trying to cram 10-11” travel shocks in there is ridiculous. You also accept a hangy downy bit, due in part to the rotated pinion, which is counterproductive. Stock probably wasn’t that great either. That puts outboarding will definitely on the agenda. At least for now the skids are strong and it will get me by for awhile. My son will have to fend for himself with some kind of extensions. I told him if he’d cut the brackets out I’d weld them on his rig.
 
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I had been looking for a place to put my handheld GMRS, and as I get ready for Moab it’s getting close to needing to figure it out. The solution was staring me in the face the whole time. I can use the magnetic phone mount by putting one of the adhesive metal plates on the back of the handheld. It’s like a rock!

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You want to borrow my moab trail handbook. It has descriptions, gps coordinates and other info. Got it back in '99' but the trails haven't changed so should still be relevant.
 
I got my trail gear list ready. I have everything except a couple of things, and some kind of bag. I have two tool rolls, a recovery bag, and I’ll need another bag for the rest. I want to get it all out on the bench, fill the tool rolls and see what’s left so I can decide what will work.

I try to travel light.

Ratcheting wrenches
5/16” stubby
7/16”
3/8”
1/2”
3/4”

10mm
13mm
15mm
18mm

Sockets
7/16”
1/2”
9/16”
3/4” (deep)

10mm
13mm
15mm
16mm
18mm
21mm
36mm

Special Wrenches
13mm (6-Pt)
Crescent wrench
Breaker bar
Wire strippers
Socket extensions
Screw drivers
Torx bits
Pinion removal tool and socket
Wonderbar
Snap ring pliers
6pt for bleeder valves

Ratchets
3/8”
1/2”

3/8” Impact? With 1/2” adapter 👍🏼

2x4”’s about 3” long (several)
Flat sheet plywood 6x6” for jack

Parts and Other
Lug nuts
Ujoint
Valve stems
Tire plugs
Axle shafts
Zip Ties
Adjustable clamps (screw clamp)
Hammer
Ratchet straps
Electrical tape
Bailing wire
The Right Stuff
2 qts oil
Wire connectors (twist type, different sizes)
WD-40
Coolant hose repair tape
Jumper cables
Gluetread
Cordless drill and wire wheel or sandpaper
Razor blade
Needle nose pliers
 
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JMT said:
I got my trail gear list ready. I have everything except a couple of things, and some kind of bag. I have two tool rolls, a recovery bag, and I’ll need another bag for the rest. I want to get it all out on the bench, fill the tool rolls and see what’s left so I can decide what will work.

I try to travel light.

Ratcheting wrenches
5/16” stubby
7/16”
3/8”
1/2”
3/4”

10mm
13mm
15mm
18mm

Sockets
7/16”
1/2”
9/16”
3/4” (deep)

10mm
13mm
15mm
16mm
18mm
21mm
36mm

Special Wrenches
13mm (6-Pt)
Crescent wrench
Breaker bar
Wire strippers
Socket extensions
Screw drivers
Torx bits
Pinion removal tool and socket
Wonderbar
Snap ring pliers
6pt for bleeder valves

Ratchets
3/8”
1/2”

3/8” Impact? With 1/2” adapter 👍🏼

2x4”’s about 3” long (several)
Flat sheet plywood 6x6” for jack

Parts and Other
Lug nuts
Ujoint
Valve stems
Tire plugs
Axle shafts
Zip Ties
Adjustable clamps (screw clamp)
Hammer
Ratchet straps
Electrical tape
Bailing wire
The Right Stuff
2 qts oil
Wire connectors (twist type, different sizes)
WD-40
Coolant hose repair tape
Jumper cables
Gluetread
Cordless drill and wire wheel or sandpaper
Razor blade
Needle nose pliers
Click to expand...

Add coolant
 
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JMT said:
I got my trail gear list ready. I have everything except a couple of things, and some kind of bag. I have two tool rolls, a recovery bag, and I’ll need another bag for the rest. I want to get it all out on the bench, fill the tool rolls and see what’s left so I can decide what will work.

I try to travel light.

Ratcheting wrenches
5/16” stubby
7/16”
3/8”
1/2”
3/4”

10mm
13mm
15mm
18mm

Sockets
7/16”
1/2”
9/16”
3/4” (deep)

10mm
13mm
15mm
16mm
18mm
21mm
36mm

Special Wrenches
13mm (6-Pt)
Crescent wrench
Breaker bar
Wire strippers
Socket extensions
Screw drivers
Torx bits
Pinion removal tool and socket
Wonderbar
Snap ring pliers
6pt for bleeder valves

Ratchets
3/8”
1/2”

3/8” Impact? With 1/2” adapter 👍🏼

2x4”’s about 3” long (several)
Flat sheet plywood 6x6” for jack

Parts and Other
Lug nuts
Ujoint
Valve stems
Tire plugs
Axle shafts
Zip Ties
Adjustable clamps (screw clamp)
Hammer
Ratchet straps
Electrical tape
Bailing wire
The Right Stuff
2 qts oil
Wire connectors (twist type, different sizes)
WD-40
Coolant hose repair tape
Jumper cables
Gluetread
Cordless drill and wire wheel or sandpaper
Razor blade
Needle nose pliers
Click to expand...

What are the 3" 2x4's for?
 
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