Stretched TJK (bigger rubber & extra inches)

Here is the front of the tank and the shock crossmember. I had to grind down the heads of the bolts to clear the tank but may still get some button head bolts instead. But I do think making your own crossmember would be a better idea.

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As you can see it's stuffed up there about as tight as it's going to get. Of course, the other option is to cut the tub and raise the bed of the back so the tank can sit higher in frame.


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I'm using 1" x 1.5" aluminum bar to make the spacers for the rear mount points.
 
Your tub must be higher or you didn't push the back of the frame as much. Here's what I'm looking at.

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Your tub must be higher or you didn't push the back of the frame as much. Here's what I'm looking at.

View attachment 360431

I just have the 1.25" body lift. I wonder why the difference between them? I pushed it back about 5" to get the arch centered over the axle. I think you went back a little more than I did.
 
I think I'm going to have to use the 1" aluminum bar like you did to clear the tub with the tank..

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I think I'm going to have to use the 1" aluminum bar like you did to clear the tub with the tank..

View attachment 362301

Without cutting the tub I don't see any way around it. It's that or don't do the butt crack delete. I made the bars approximately the same length as the area that bolts to the rear crossmember. So, they are about 10" in length. I can post a picture of them if you want.
 
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Without cutting the tub I don't see any way around it. It's that or don't do the butt crack delete. I made the bars approximately the same length as the area that bolts to the rear crossmember. So, they are about 10" in length. I can post a picture of them if you want.

I can picture it. The tank will reside in elevation w/o cutting up the tub and I don't like 1" overlap between the two frame halves. Looks like I'll chuck up some 1-1/4" aluminum in a lathe to make some custom body mounts.
 
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Well time flies when life consumes the best of us. I'll have to post some updated pictures but not much has happened for this Jeep in the last 6 months. However, I did:

1. Fabricate a mid-point body mount using www.sendcutsend.com & some DOM
2. Fabricate a dual triangulated crossmember to follow UCF's skid plate
3. Design and fabricate 30 degree lower axle link mounts using www.sendcutsend.com
4. Design and fabricate rear-forward axle sway bar mount for Tony's TK1 sway bar.
 
Well time flies when life consumes the best of us. I'll have to post some updated pictures but not much has happened for this Jeep in the last 6 months. However, I did:

1. Fabricate a mid-point body mount using www.sendcutsend.com & some DOM
2. Fabricate a dual triangulated crossmember to follow UCF's skid plate
3. Design and fabricate 30 degree lower axle link mounts using www.sendcutsend.com
4. Design and fabricate rear-forward axle sway bar mount for Tony's TK1 sway bar.

Look forward to seeing the progress that you've made.
 
Looks great! What does the axle side mount look like?

Still a slow work in progress. With the stretch and a 14" swaybar arm, the sway bar location will put sway bar link about 1" forward of axle. I'm hoping I can incorporate mounting it into the link mount.

The TK1, with the DOM tube and bracket is reasonablely priced at roughly $500
 
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Sliced up a beautiful $500, 3/8" thick aluminum skid to tie into the crossmember. Now, I need some input on how to make the crossmember removable... Thoughts on a 3/8" thick square tube with (1) factory bolt from the bottom and two 1/2" through-frame bolts (sleeved with DOM)?

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