Big-time bumpsteer!

Mandolinman said:
I have aftermarket lower control arms front and back that probably came with the lift. Front Lowers have cam bolts that show room for increase caster. If I get new adjustable control arms should I need upper and lower adjustable or can I get by with only adjustable Lowers? Keep in mind this jeep is only going to see mild off road use.
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You need both to properly position the axle where it needs to be. It is a combination of lengthening the uppers and shortening the lowers to dial in more caster. If you try to do it completely with one or the other the axle does not seem to stay where it should be.
 
Gollywomper said:
You need both to properly position the axle where it needs to be. It is a combination of lengthening the uppers and shortening the lowers to dial in more caster. If you try to do it completely with one or the other the axle does not seem to stay where it should be.
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I would think that depends on how much caster you add. He's near 5° now, and probably doesn't have to change it very far. So maybe only adjustable uppers or lowers is needed.

And @Mandolinman , remember that pinion angle takes precedence over caster.
 
OldBuzzard said:
I would think that depends on how much caster you add. He's near 5° now, and probably doesn't have to change it very far. So maybe only adjustable uppers or lowers is needed.

And @Mandolinman , remember that pinion angle takes precedence over caster.
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Perhaps. He will likely have to go pretty short on the lowers to keep the diff clear of the track bar at full stuff and dial in more caster. All things that need to be verified. There is no easy button to properly adjusted control arms and bump stops. We all have to cycle and check things. That is why you dont hear of any control arm length numbers used here. It just varies too much from rig to rig.
 
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Gollywomper said:
Perhaps. He will likely have to go pretty short on the lowers to keep the diff clear of the track bar at full stuff and dial in more caster. All things that need to be verified. There is no easy button to properly adjusted control arms and bump stops. We all have to cycle and check things. That is why you dont hear of any control arm length numbers used here. It just varies too much from rig to rig.
Gollywomper said:
Perhaps. He will likely have to go pretty short on the lowers to keep the diff clear of the track bar at full stuff and dial in more caster. All things that need to be verified. There is no easy button to properly adjusted control arms and bump stops. We all have to cycle and check things. That is why you dont hear of any control arm length numbers used here. It just varies too much from rig to rig.
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Dumb question, are adjustable control arms made to go shorter and longer than factory control arms?
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The cam bolts on my lower front control arms show that I can probably pick up at least 1°. Should the front axle be floating off the ground and ratchet it forward to set the cam bolts?
 
Rickyd said:
I do it with the weight on the jeep
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And a ratchet strap will pull the axle toward the front of vehicle? I'd like to bring in the toe and increase the caster a degree and see if that improves steering issues a bit after I install the stock pitman arm. Should have the pitman arm Thursday.
 
Didn't read the whole thread so not sure if it was mentioned, but you have two nitrogen charged steering stabilizers both pushing on the steering in the same direction, might be why it returns to zero one way but not the other. Remove them both and go for a test drive, see if it is any different.
 
carrotman said:
Didn't read the whole thread so not sure if it was mentioned, but you have two nitrogen charged steering stabilizers both pushing on the steering in the same direction, might be why it returns to zero one way but not the other. Remove them both and go for a test drive, see if it is any different.
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Already addressed thanks.
 
Mandolinman said:
And a ratchet strap will pull the axle toward the front of vehicle? I'd like to bring in the toe and increase the caster a degree and see if that improves steering issues a bit after I install the stock pitman arm. Should have the pitman arm Thursday.
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You are going to be fighting the springs trying to push the lower mounts rearward. I'd jack it up, pull the tires, droop the axle a bit to reduce some of that. Loosen the bolts just enough to turn them and to keep the cams engaged in the horseshoes. Use that to move the bolt all the way one direction in the slot.
 
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mrblaine said:
You are going to be fighting the springs trying to push the lower mounts rearward. I'd jack it up, pull the tires, droop the axle a bit to reduce some of that. Loosen the bolts just enough to turn them and to keep the cams engaged in the horseshoes. Use that to move the bolt all the way one direction in the slot.
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I don't understand. Wouldn't I need to push the control arms forward?
 
Mandolinman said:
I don't understand. Wouldn't I need to push the control arms forward?
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The arms don't move, the axle does. You are tilting the axle rearward at the top to add some caster. The springs overhang the front of the axle tube. When the weight is on the axle, it is trying to force the lower mounts rearward and upper mounts forward.
 
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