Jerry, I messed up, I said Im on 35s and didn't realize I'm only on 33s. I went and regeared to 4.88. Should I have done 3.55?
You’ll be fine in 4.88 and 33’s. That’s a better setup than on 35’s. Just enjoy it.
Jerry, I messed up, I said Im on 35s and didn't realize I'm only on 33s. I went and regeared to 4.88. Should I have done 3.55?
From playing around with the calculator on grimjeeper,
This thread seems insane. So, my jeep is, 2000, 5speed, nv3550, came with a 44 rear luckily, and came 3.73 stock. Now plugging in all that with the stock 30" tire size, compare it to 35" tire size, 4.27 r&p is almost identical vehicle speeds vs rpm as a completely stock setup. (Atleast with my factory options.) 4.10's you loose power, 4.56 you gain a bit, and 4.88 you gain some but you're turning a ton of rpm at freeway speeds.
I would think In any other world senario, you'd basically want to try to match stock factory set up to have the vehicle feel like factory in terms of power. This is why I feel like this 4.88 and 5.13 thing seems insane. At that point what is even the point of having 1st gear. Get to 10 mph and have to shift? Lol.
4.27 isn't really a ratio for Dana 30's for the tj. Well, it's possible but it seems to be down to pinion length and crush sleeve or not. All the other numbers seem to match.
Now, I'm shooting for 35's, 4.10 obviously isn't the choice cause I lose power. However, comparing numbers on the calculator, 4.56 with 35's you'd gain a bit of power vs what my stock jeep had set up with. 4.88's and God forbid 5.13's seem way out in the weeds unless you're cool with listening to your jeep turn 3k rpms at like 65 in 5th. Idk it partially doesn't make sense to me.
I mean, unless stock jeeps were under geared and didn't have power which with all this being said, would make this 4.88 nonsense make more sense.. lol. Not trying to seem like a jerk, but I just don't get the dealio here.
I’m debating on moving up to 35s from 33s I have 4.56 with nv3550, I’m 80% pavement and was wondering if I would be ok running 35s with 4.56?
From playing around with the calculator on grimjeeper,
This thread seems insane. So, my jeep is, 2000, 5speed, nv3550, came with a 44 rear luckily, and came 3.73 stock. Now plugging in all that with the stock 30" tire size, compare it to 35" tire size, 4.27 r&p is almost identical vehicle speeds vs rpm as a completely stock setup. (Atleast with my factory options.) 4.10's you loose power, 4.56 you gain a bit, and 4.88 you gain some but you're turning a ton of rpm at freeway speeds.
I would think In any other world senario, you'd basically want to try to match stock factory set up to have the vehicle feel like factory in terms of power. This is why I feel like this 4.88 and 5.13 thing seems insane. At that point what is even the point of having 1st gear. Get to 10 mph and have to shift? Lol.
4.27 isn't really a ratio for Dana 30's for the tj. Well, it's possible but it seems to be down to pinion length and crush sleeve or not. All the other numbers seem to match.
Now, I'm shooting for 35's, 4.10 obviously isn't the choice cause I lose power. However, comparing numbers on the calculator, 4.56 with 35's you'd gain a bit of power vs what my stock jeep had set up with. 4.88's and God forbid 5.13's seem way out in the weeds unless you're cool with listening to your jeep turn 3k rpms at like 65 in 5th. Idk it partially doesn't make sense to me.
I mean, unless stock jeeps were under geared and didn't have power which with all this being said, would make this 4.88 nonsense make more sense.. lol. Not trying to seem like a jerk, but I just don't get the dealio here.
What makes you think your 30" tires are actually that tall? Or that the graph really tells you just how much power larger tires rob?
The problem with those calculators is they let you make many false assumptions and then try to get answers from them.
3000 rpm isn't a ton of rpm. I drove for 10 years at 3000 rpm everyday on my commute. The redline is 5200 rpm.... and 4.88 you gain some but you're turning a ton of rpm at freeway speeds.
You're not accounting for the added weight and resistance of larger wheels and tires. You need to be at stock ratio+ to achieve similar performance as a stock setup.I would think In any other world senario, you'd basically want to try to match stock factory set up to have the vehicle feel like factory in terms of power.
We hear that a lot. It's not insane. It's rational.This is why I feel like this 4.88 and 5.13 thing seems insane.
How fast do you need to go in 1st gear? You have five of them for a reason.At that point what is even the point of having 1st gear. Get to 10 mph and have to shift? Lol.
with your .78 5th gear you want 5.13s for 35sNow, I'm shooting for 35's,
The stock Rubicon has 4.10 gears, 29" tires, a 4.46 1st gear and a .84 6th gear (NSG370).I mean, unless stock jeeps were under geared and didn't have power which with all this being said, would make this 4.88 nonsense make more sense..
The dealio is that the members here have hundreds of years of combined experience.Not trying to seem like a jerk, but I just don't get the dealio here.
From playing around with the calculator on grimjeeper,
This thread seems insane. So, my jeep is, 2000, 5speed, nv3550, came with a 44 rear luckily, and came 3.73 stock. Now plugging in all that with the stock 30" tire size, compare it to 35" tire size, 4.27 r&p is almost identical vehicle speeds vs rpm as a completely stock setup. (Atleast with my factory options.) 4.10's you loose power, 4.56 you gain a bit, and 4.88 you gain some but you're turning a ton of rpm at freeway speeds.
I would think In any other world senario, you'd basically want to try to match stock factory set up to have the vehicle feel like factory in terms of power. This is why I feel like this 4.88 and 5.13 thing seems insane. At that point what is even the point of having 1st gear. Get to 10 mph and have to shift? Lol.
4.27 isn't really a ratio for Dana 30's for the tj. Well, it's possible but it seems to be down to pinion length and crush sleeve or not. All the other numbers seem to match.
Now, I'm shooting for 35's, 4.10 obviously isn't the choice cause I lose power. However, comparing numbers on the calculator, 4.56 with 35's you'd gain a bit of power vs what my stock jeep had set up with. 4.88's and God forbid 5.13's seem way out in the weeds unless you're cool with listening to your jeep turn 3k rpms at like 65 in 5th. Idk it partially doesn't make sense to me.
I mean, unless stock jeeps were under geared and didn't have power which with all this being said, would make this 4.88 nonsense make more sense.. lol. Not trying to seem like a jerk, but I just don't get the dealio here.
First, understand that you don't want to regear your TJ for 35's so it ends up with the same rpms at, say, 70 mph as it did when it came with the smaller factory size tires. Bigger tires require more rpms to turn and 35's are substantially harder to turn than its original small factory size tires did. The larger the diameter of tire the more leverage it has against both the drivetrain/engine and its brakes. So you need to regear so it produces higher rpms than it required when it rolled out of the factory.From playing around with the calculator on grimjeeper,
This thread seems insane. So, my jeep is, 2000, 5speed, nv3550, came with a 44 rear luckily, and came 3.73 stock. Now plugging in all that with the stock 30" tire size, compare it to 35" tire size, 4.27 r&p is almost identical vehicle speeds vs rpm as a completely stock setup. (Atleast with my factory options.) 4.10's you loose power, 4.56 you gain a bit, and 4.88 you gain some but you're turning a ton of rpm at freeway speeds.
I would think In any other world senario, you'd basically want to try to match stock factory set up to have the vehicle feel like factory in terms of power. This is why I feel like this 4.88 and 5.13 thing seems insane. At that point what is even the point of having 1st gear. Get to 10 mph and have to shift? Lol.
4.27 isn't really a ratio for Dana 30's for the tj. Well, it's possible but it seems to be down to pinion length and crush sleeve or not. All the other numbers seem to match.
Now, I'm shooting for 35's, 4.10 obviously isn't the choice cause I lose power. However, comparing numbers on the calculator, 4.56 with 35's you'd gain a bit of power vs what my stock jeep had set up with. 4.88's and God forbid 5.13's seem way out in the weeds unless you're cool with listening to your jeep turn 3k rpms at like 65 in 5th. Idk it partially doesn't make sense to me.
I mean, unless stock jeeps were under geared and didn't have power which with all this being said, would make this 4.88 nonsense make more sense.. lol. Not trying to seem like a jerk, but I just don't get the dealio here.
Lower RPMs do not always give better MPG. I seriously doubt your 4.56 is giving better MPG with 35's than a more appropriate 4.88 or 5.13 would with the 5-speed transmission.
The Overdrive ratio in the 42RLE automatic transmission requires significantly lower ratios than the 5-speed does. My present TJ bought used with a 42RLE, 35" tires, and 4.88 gearing got terrible mpg. It never even reached 12 mpg, it was 11-something mpg. Then I regeared it from 4.88 to 5.38 and my mpg shot up to 14.6 mpg.
I've been debating this. I also have an auto on an 05 rubi. With 33's I was thinking 4.88. But I'm not opposed to 5.13. Can you tell me how that lower gearing affected your 1st gear accelerating on road? Does it shift right through 1st into 2nd real fast? Does this negatively impact the auto transmission?
Your 42RLE automatic is a completely different beast with its extremely steep .69 Overdrive ratio which drops the highway rpms much lower than the 5-speed manual transmission does. That just means it needs a significantly lower axle ratio than the 5-speed manual with its .78 ratio overdrive ratio (5th gear).I've been debating this. I also have an auto on an 05 rubi. With 33's I was thinking 4.88. But I'm not opposed to 5.13. Can you tell me how that lower gearing affected your 1st gear accelerating on road? Does it shift right through 1st into 2nd real fast? Does this negatively impact the auto transmission?
With a Rubi on 33's you should go straight to 5.38 with the automatic. I can't speak to the 1-2 shift but lower axle gears will only help the transmission as it will see less load through it due to the reduced stress provided by the regear downstream.
I'm not totally opposed to 5.38. Does that fit in the stock housing (44's)?
Since you have a Rubicon yes 5.38 will work fine. You want the "thick" version of the gears from https://www.revolutiongear.com/I'm not totally opposed to 5.38. Does that fit in the stock housing (44's)?
Your 42RLE automatic is a completely different beast with its extremely steep .69 Overdrive ratio which drops the highway rpms much lower than the 5-speed manual transmission does. That just means it needs a significantly lower axle ratio than the 5-speed manual with its .78 ratio overdrive ratio (5th gear).
For 33's I'd go no less than 5.13 but personally I'd go with 5.38 for your Rubicon. I also have a Rubicon and regeared to 5.38 for my 35's but 5.38, while ok, is really not quite enough gear on the highway. I would have gone for the next lower ratio but 5.38 is as low as the Rubicon lockers will allow. For your 33's 5.38 would be awesome on the highway. And don't let any of the clueless types tell you 5.13 and 5.38 pinion gears are too weak. The redesign they had years ago means they have as much pinion gear tooth engagement as 4.88 does. There are a LOT of us running 5.38 gears in our Rubicons and we love that ratio. It's good for 35's, and much better than the 4.88 I used to have, but it's awesome for 33's.
Yes, Revolution came up with a version specifically for the stock front and rear Dana 44 axles and in the right ring gear thickness to work on the factory Rubicon lockers. Lots of folks on this site running that version of 5.38s for 7-8 years now. I believe they came out in 2015 not super long after Revolution opened up.
Since you have a Rubicon yes 5.38 will work fine. You want the "thick" version of the gears from https://www.revolutiongear.com/
These... which is what I installed into my Rubicon.
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