Looking for locker recommendations for 2006 TJ

rapidroy5858

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I am considering installing just a front locker on my new to me 06 tj sport 4.p, lifted, on 35's.
Planning on pulling diff. Covers to determine what gears it has.

Primary use will be around town pleasure use..back and forth to marina , etc.
I will also occasionally off road it and trailer it behind the rv.
My thinking is with the majority of use being road use I could avoid the rear locker issues of noise and clunking but benefit from the front locker when im using it for light off road trailing.
Any input would be greatly appreciated.
Recommend a low cost front locker?
 
I believe most would agree in recommending a rear locker first, but go with a switchable e-locker or arb air locker for the rear. However for the front an automatic locker can be used, there is one in particular that is highly regarded and doesn’t make noise (can’t remember the name) OR if not wheeling hard, just go with a Tru-track limited slip. Honestly a true track front and rear can handle very well for most peoples use


Don’t remember the name of the auto locker due to having ARBs front and rear
 
OR if not wheeling hard, just go with a Tru-track limited slip. Honestly a true track front and rear can handle very well for most peoples use
I installed f/r Truetrac limited slip differentials into my previous TJ 23-24 years ago and offroad, they were the most useless "upgrade" I have ever done to my TJ. They did nothing to help on trails that were uneven enough to lift a tire off the ground. I gave up a couple years after installing them and replaced both with true lockers... positively the best thing I have ever done to improve its offroad capabilities.

So far as a front locker is concerned X3 to the recommendation for the Powertrax No-Slip "lunchbox" locker which is virtually undetectable around town when you're in 2wd. Most lunchbox lockers click and ratchet when making slow-speed parking-lot type turns when you're in 2wd, but not the No-Slip which is silent. Plus it works really well offroad, it's one of the two lockers I installed into that previous TJ.

For 35's and a front locker I'd also definitely upgrade the front axle shafts to chromoly, like 4310 or 4340. Once you get 35's and a locker the front shafts become vulnerable to breaking or stretching open where they hold onto the axle shaft u-joints which happened to me. No more front axle problems after upgrading the shafts to chromoly.
 
Am I on right track going with it in front only for the use of the jeep as I described?

A PowerTrax No Slip is great up front.
Definitely need 4340 shafts.

You worried about a locker clunking in the rear. That would only be if you installed a lunchbox or full case auto locker. The e-locker and ARB don’t clunk.
 
Ty,I missed your suggestion on the axles
This is what happened to mine with 35" tires and a front No-Slip locker, 35" is big enough to put more strain on the "ears" that are part of the axle shafts that hold onto the u-joint which can break them. Especially if the steering wheel is all the way over as mine was when I was in 4Lo and give it just a little too much gas. I had to finish the trail in 3wd. Mine broke right where the arrow is pointing. Replacing both axle shafts with chromoly replacements stopped further damage.

DSCF0048withArrow.jpg
 
OP I was in much the same position as you. My TJ is mostly a daily driver with occasional dreams of hitting the trails a couple times a year.

After researching here and much gnashing of teeth, I pulled the trigger on a Powertrax No-Slip "Lunchbox" Locker in the front and a Eaton Truetrac for the rear. No complaints so far.
 
Sorry to hijack your thread, but this conversation reminded me of a long unanswered question.

I have pretty much the opposite as being suggested here. I have a Detroit locker in the rear and an ARB on the front. This is what my dad chose when he added them in '03; he was OO. The detroit is great off road in that it is super reliable but chirps on the road and icy conditions take some getting used to. However, when I have offroad and need to navigate tight situations I have to turn the front off as the steering is very unresponsive with locked in front. Is this solely due to the rear being locked and pushing the front? If the front was locked but I could turn the rear off, would it alleviate this situation?
 
This is what happened to mine with 35" tires and a front No-Slip locker, 35" is big enough to put more strain on the "ears" that are part of the axle shafts that hold onto the u-joint which can break them. Especially if the steering wheel is all the way over as mine was when I was in 4Lo and give it just a little too much gas. I had to finish the trail in 3wd. Mine broke right where the arrow is pointing. Replacing both axle shafts with chromoly replacements stopped further damage.

View attachment 411125

Even 33’s locked on a Dana 30 can be broken if you slam into something or turn hard and meet resistance. Mine broke at the ears too, but it may have been the ujoint that gave first. It was hard to tell.
 
Sorry to hijack your thread, but this conversation reminded me of a long unanswered question.

I have pretty much the opposite as being suggested here. I have a Detroit locker in the rear and an ARB on the front. This is what my dad chose when he added them in '03; he was OO. The detroit is great off road in that it is super reliable but chirps on the road and icy conditions take some getting used to. However, when I have offroad and need to navigate tight situations I have to turn the front off as the steering is very unresponsive with locked in front. Is this solely due to the rear being locked and pushing the front? If the front was locked but I could turn the rear off, would it alleviate this situation?

Yes, and yes.

The rear is pushing the front and won’t allow traction to turn. If you could turn the rear off it would turn sharper.

There’s a good video John Currie did showing the turn radius difference when the rear is locked vs unlocked.
 
Even 33’s locked on a front Dana 30 can be broken if you slam into something or turn hard and meet resistance. Mine broke at the ears too, but it may have been the ujoint that gave first. It was hard to tell.
Absolutely. And my bet is the ears broke first which allowed the u-joint to pull free and spin/bust up.
 
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The downside to locking the front is the extra strain on the axleshafts and ujoints. Chromoly shafts like jerry said take care of that. I wouldn't want an autolocker in slick offcamber situations though.
 
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