Pulling to right on deceleration

Artsifrtsi said:
Try unloading and loading the front end a little with a jack and see if anything is shifting or loose.
Click to expand...

Rickyd said:
Idk if it has anything to do with your issue but you should install this steering-
Click to expand...
I'd bet you are getting bump steer...

To find it, you will need to move the height between the axle and the frame, and look for movement in the tires/steering wheel. Set the front axle on Jackstands so the tires are just off the ground. Center a jack under the front bumper and lift/lower the body relative to the axle. Watch to see if the tires turn as the frame/axle height changes.

My bet is that acceleration is lifting the front, causing a steer to the left, and deceleration is compressing the front causing the steer to the right.
 
Have you checked your steering TRE's by having someone rock your steering wheel slightly back and forth while you look at the linkage for any movement that should not be there?
 
Artsifrtsi said:
I'd bet you are getting bump steer...

To find it, you will need to move the height between the axle and the frame, and look for movement in the tires/steering wheel. Set the front axle on Jackstands so the tires are just off the ground. Center a jack under the front bumper and lift/lower the body relative to the axle. Watch to see if the tires turn as the frame/axle height changes.

My bet is that acceleration is lifting the front, causing a steer to the left, and deceleration is compressing the front causing the steer to the right.
Click to expand...
That is really interesting. I'll check it in just a few minutes. Taking a small break as it started hailing about 20 minutes into the work today. Might be time for a margarita.

I just finished replacing the other axle side control arm bushing, and it looked good too, so you might be right. I've tugged on and shook everything that looks suspension related, and every single thing is rock solid, not even tie rod roll ("cure" bushing was used).

Checked the engine mounts, which looked great. Setup a camera, put it in 1st and watched for engine movement - nothing. Same thing under the rear, and under the front, just to see if anything would move under power. Again - nothing. :/

If it ends up being the actual steering itself, I'll have no problem replacing it, but I'm wanting to verify before I throw money at it. I'll post an update in a little bit once I've jacked up the front while on jackstands later tonight.
 
Artsifrtsi said:
I'd bet you are getting bump steer... To find it, you will need to move the height between the axle and the frame, and look for movement in the tires/steering wheel. Set the front axle on Jackstands so the tires are just off the ground. Center a jack under the front bumper and lift/lower the body relative to the axle. Watch to see if the tires turn as the frame/axle height changes.

My bet is that acceleration is lifting the front, causing a steer to the left, and deceleration is compressing the front causing the steer to the right.
Click to expand...

Yep, when jacking the body up, they want to turn very slightly to the left, which, I'm sure at speed feels a lot more dramatic than it looks in the driveway.

Ok, so if that's indicating that it's bumpsteer, what are the possible solutions to that? Is it going to a different steering style? Or is it something else?
 
Ok, so I've done a little more research on this type of steering. It appears to be a GM 1-ton "crossover" steering. This particular kit is UTK. I've seen a youtube video of someone pointing out that as the front of the vehicle rises, the drag link is pulled up with it, pulling the knuckle inward (to the left to compensate for the drag link being pulled up. My GUESS is that crossover steering is fine for vehicles that don't have a ton of front end lift, or have a firmer rear end. But when that front starts to rise, it pulls the drag link with it.

Besides changing steering, I'm not sure how much I can do about that.

EDIT: I misspoke. It's a ruffstuff gm 1 ton y-link steering kit. I'm going to reach out to them Monday to see what they have to say.
 
Last edited:
GoldiRocks said:
Yep, when jacking the body up, they want to turn very slightly to the left, which, I'm sure at speed feels a lot more dramatic than it looks in the driveway.

Ok, so if that's indicating that it's bumpsteer, what are the possible solutions to that? Is it going to a different steering style? Or is it something else?
Click to expand...

I think probably going stock style might be best. I think what’s really hurting yours, is how far over the drag link connects. I have an inverted T style, and do not get any issues steering.

what really makes things weird, is your steering looks similar to the steering in JL/JT…
 
Rickyd said:
Idk if it has anything to do with your issue but you should install this steering-

https://www.rockjock4x4.com/CE-9701
The style on your jeep makes it wander while driving.

So you checked every single joint,connection,and bracket for movement?

Are the motor mounts visibly cracked or broken making it flop around and tug the jeep?
Click to expand...

This is what you want. Get different knuckles if they've been drilled out
 
  • Like
Reactions: AndrewB
GoldiRocks said:
Ok, so I've done a little more research on this type of steering. It appears to be a GM 1-ton "crossover" steering. This particular kit is UTK. I've seen a youtube video of someone pointing out that as the front of the vehicle rises, the drag link is pulled up with it, pulling the knuckle inward (to the left to compensate for the drag link being pulled up. My GUESS is that crossover steering is fine for vehicles that don't have a ton of front end lift, or have a firmer rear end. But when that front starts to rise, it pulls the drag link with it.

Besides changing steering, I'm not sure how much I can do about that.

EDIT: I misspoke. It's a ruffstuff gm 1 ton y-link steering kit. I'm going to reach out to them Monday to see what they have to say.
Click to expand...
It is inverted t steering. It rolls the tie rod forward and back before turning. Doesn't belong on most tj's
 
Ok, called ruffstuff. Of course, they hear "very few" complaints of bump steer on their steering. SO, that being said, they weren't much help.

I also had my wife wiggle the steering wheel while I was looking underneath, and there's still definitely tie rod roll. So, I've got a little bit of work to do on that too.

I'm going to play with the steering geometry a little bit and see if that makes a difference. I'm guessing, in the end, it'll probably result in me going the Currie route on the steering system, but I'll probably have to wait a little bit until funds are in the bank.

Thanks again for all the suggestions. I'll update the thread when or if I make any progress.
 
GoldiRocks said:
Ok, called ruffstuff. Of course, they hear "very few" complaints of bump steer on their steering. SO, that being said, they weren't much help.

I also had my wife wiggle the steering wheel while I was looking underneath, and there's still definitely tie rod roll. So, I've got a little bit of work to do on that too.

I'm going to play with the steering geometry a little bit and see if that makes a difference. I'm guessing, in the end, it'll probably result in me going the Currie route on the steering system, but I'll probably have to wait a little bit until funds are in the bank.

Thanks again for all the suggestions. I'll update the thread when or if I make any progress.
Click to expand...

What do you mean by “Play with the steering geometry a little bit?“ That is usually something not easily “play with-able.”
 
Last edited:
  • USA Proud
Reactions: Apparition
Rickyd said:
4" dropped pitman arm 😎
Click to expand...

LOL. I intend to take a closer look (actually taking measurements) at the actual angles of the drag link and track bar, and find out how much they're off. They appear to be really close in photos (drawing lines), but I'd like to know if they're off, by how much.

If I need to "play with the geometry", as I mentioned, it would likely be anything that would bring the bars closer to parallel, and if anything, perhaps a little more horizontal. That being said, I'm not likely to invest much more in a steering system that's not playing well with the jeep.

Also, as pointed out earlier, the jeep does raise the front end quite a bit under acceleration, and dive under deceleration (not so much braking as much as unloading the engine), and I can totally see the effects of that causing the steering issues with this type of steering. While I put some cash aside for another steering system, it just gives me a bit of time to think about what can reduce/mitigate the issue until then.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Rickyd
GoldiRocks said:
LOL. I intend to take a closer look (actually taking measurements) at the actual angles of the drag link and track bar, and find out how much they're off. They appear to be really close in photos (drawing lines), but I'd like to know if they're off, by how much.

If I need to "play with the geometry", as I mentioned, it would likely be anything that would bring the bars closer to parallel, and if anything, perhaps a little more horizontal. That being said, I'm not likely to invest much more in a steering system that's not playing well with the jeep.

Also, as pointed out earlier, the jeep does raise the front end quite a bit under acceleration, and dive under deceleration (not so much braking as much as unloading the engine), and I can totally see the effects of that causing the steering issues with this type of steering. While I put some cash aside for another steering system, it just gives me a bit of time to think about what can reduce/mitigate the issue until then.
Click to expand...

Keep in mind the factory geometry works great. And the bars aren't equal length or perfectly parallel.but it is designed to function well.
 
First jack it up and make sure all the wheels spin freely.

Secondly, axle movement is typically the deal- and you can’t test that by hand- check all the mounts for cracks, be sure all is torqued at load (jeep on ground) and get someone to slightly roll/rock it and hit the brakes- and see if they move in the mounts.

Be sure the axles are parallel to the skid as a reference , centered and parallel to each other

Dry test the steering.

Be sure you have toe and good caster - like -6 to -8 if possible.

Check the front unit bearings for play by lifting tires off the ground and rocking them.

Keep us posted.
 
Last edited:
06lj said:
What is going on with the track bar? Does Rockjock use a sleeve or spacer?
View attachment 408980
Click to expand...

Good catch. That spacer should be on the top side of the trackbar bracket. PO's mistake.

GoldiRocks said:
I'll probably do that too this weekend.
Click to expand...

It's already drilled out if it's installed. It left the factory with a tapered hole to fit the tie rod end on the stock track bar. With the Rockjock track bar, the hole is drilled out to accept a bolt and the thick spacer goes on top between the lock nut and the track bar bracket.

Rickyd said:
I don't know the versions well but i thought there was one using a smaller bolt.maybe yours is no drill?
Click to expand...

The distinction between the two versions of the Rockjock track bar is at the axle side, not the frame side.
 
FYI, you could do the ZJ steering upgrade. It’s heavier duty than stock, and has the correct geometry for the TJ, and is much less expensive than Currie.

And also available at most all parts stores. I’d go with Moog.

There’s a thread in the resource section that explains everything about the upgrade.

And stay away from a dropped pitman arm, you don’t need any more problems.
 
Top Bottom
Back