2006 Flame Red LJR

NJW

TJ Enthusiast
Supporting Member
Ride of the Month Winner
Joined
Jul 28, 2021
Messages
180
Location
Pagosa Springs, CO
Picked up this LJR last night. Had to drive 12 hrs, but wound up being a killer deal IMO.
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It does need some love, P.O. never drove it. It was built by a guy named Charley Crossley, or “Crazy Charely” that passed away a number of years ago. His friend took possession and it’s basically been in storage and driven less than 1000 miles the last 5 years.

Because of this, I got a great deal. It needs some front end work. I ordered new ball joints, axle u-joints and unit bearings this morning. I also sprung for the RockJock currectlync steering.

Anything else I need to look into in this department?

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On the drive back, I got under the Jeep while getting gas and noticed oil splattering all around the rear end. I had planned on needing to replace things merely from it sitting. Am I looking at axle seals here?

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I’m replacing all fluids over the next couple of days. What else do I need to look into as a result of it sitting?

Jeep has 38k miles. Interior is immaculate. Haven’t seen one this clean ever.

FWIW, it rode great doing 65 home. 70-75 was really pushing the RPM’s.

Here’s some other photos:
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Appreciate the help guys!
 
Is it possible that this is engine oil from the rear main? Headed to the back? It’s got a very slight leak. Nothing dripping to the ground even.
 
Whats the tcase look like? Something is definitely spitting a touch of fluid and as you're driving its being tossed/blown back towards the axle.

I'd treat it like any other 17 year old used vehicle regardless of mileage; fluids, brakes, ujoints, plugs, bushings, tires, OPDA, etc...
 
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You need to cycle that suspension. I see about 2 inches of uptravel...Nice parts though, so definitely worth working through.

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This was something that had me perplexed when I was looking at it at first. Any idea why someone would set it up that way?

I don’t know anything about coilovers. I’ve read a bunch on how to set bump stops on a traditional spring/shock setup, but what do I need to take into consideration here?
 
This was something that had me perplexed when I was looking at it at first. Any idea why someone would set it up that way?

I don’t know anything about coilovers. I’ve read a bunch on how to set bump stops on a traditional spring/shock setup, but what do I need to take into consideration here?

They would set it up that way if they were paying attention to the LCOG fad where uptravel isn't important and droop rules all.

I can't help you with spring rates, but you should look to set the shock up as close to 50/50 (up/down) travel bias from ride height as possible. You have non-highline fenders, and I'm assuming 35's? You should look for ride height of the frame to be around 4" over factory, if you have a 1.25" body lift. You should be able to get pretty close to a 50/50 bias on a 12" shock at that height.

Looking at the lower mount (on the front, anyway), it appears that it could be redesigned to drop the bottom eye a couple inches to probably double your uptravel.
 
They would set it up that way if they were paying attention to the LCOG fad where uptravel isn't important and droop rules all.

I can't help you with spring rates, but you should look to set the shock up as close to 50/50 (up/down) travel bias from ride height as possible. You have non-highline fenders, and I'm assuming 35's? You should look for ride height of the frame to be around 4" over factory, if you have a 1.25" body lift. You should be able to get pretty close to a 50/50 bias on a 12" shock at that height.

Looking at the lower mount (on the front, anyway), it appears that it could be redesigned to drop the bottom eye a couple inches to probably double your uptravel.

You'd get a lot more travel out of the stock location with eliminator pins if those brackets still exist and there's no interference. Or just fab something up.

That's a great find.
 
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They would set it up that way if they were paying attention to the LCOG fad where uptravel isn't important and droop rules all.

I can't help you with spring rates, but you should look to set the shock up as close to 50/50 (up/down) travel bias from ride height as possible. You have non-highline fenders, and I'm assuming 35's? You should look for ride height of the frame to be around 4" over factory, if you have a 1.25" body lift. You should be able to get pretty close to a 50/50 bias on a 12" shock at that height.

Looking at the lower mount (on the front, anyway), it appears that it could be redesigned to drop the bottom eye a couple inches to probably double your uptravel.
Yes, I have 35's. It's the 6" Full Traction Long Arm, No body lift.

I'm pretty sure the main culprit is the RMS in terms of the oil being splattered on the underside. Everything looks good at the transfer case.

I cannot figure out what was going through their mind with this suspension though. This is obviously well over my head and I’m guessing I’ll need to find a reputable shop to help me figure things out.

For the time being though, I’ll be changing fluids, joints, bushings and the rear main seal this week.

I also need to order tires. Was planning on going with the same MT Baja MTZ’s so I could skimp on a spare. Any reason why I shouldn’t?

Does anyone recognize the rear tire carrier? I really like how sturdy it is compared to other ones I’ve seen.
 
Yes, I have 35's. It's the 6" Full Traction Long Arm, No body lift.

I'm pretty sure the main culprit is the RMS in terms of the oil being splattered on the underside. Everything looks good at the transfer case.

I cannot figure out what was going through their mind with this suspension though. This is obviously well over my head and I’m guessing I’ll need to find a reputable shop to help me figure things out.

For the time being though, I’ll be changing fluids, joints, bushings and the rear main seal this week.

I also need to order tires. Was planning on going with the same MT Baja MTZ’s so I could skimp on a spare. Any reason why I shouldn’t?

Does anyone recognize the rear tire carrier? I really like how sturdy it is compared to other ones I’ve seen.

Wouldn’t you have oil all over the transmission and TCase if it was the RMS, oil pan, or pcv valves?
 
Wouldn’t you have oil all over the transmission and TCase if it was the RMS, oil pan, or pcv valves?
I did find some along both. Not a ton, but I can’t find anywhere else it would be coming from.

I don’t pretend to be ultra knowledgeable here, but the rms is the only place I see something leaking. I would call it more of a weep.

But maybe I’m complete wrong, and I should be looking somewhere else.
 
I suppose that makes more sense. Is it possible that they were just overgreased? There’s definitely splatter up on the transfer case and transmission.

What should I be looking at to determine what needs to be done? Do I need to swap out for seal u joints?
 
Also, I have never seen anything like this in regards to the suspension. I chalked it up at first to not knowing much about coilovers, but the price was so right that I figured I could invest that money into getting it set up right.
 
I suppose that makes more sense. Is it possible that they were just overgreased? There’s definitely splatter up on the transfer case and transmission.

What should I be looking at to determine what needs to be done? Do I need to swap out for seal u joints?

When you grease a U-joint, the old grease has to go somewhere. If it’s not wiped off, it will fling off when the driveshaft spins

Regarding the suspension, you’ll have to start doing research. Setting up coil overs takes a fair bit of knowledge and work. The results can be amazing (so I’ve heard) but it’s not easy.
 
Working through my suspension issues.

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Plan is to redo all the mounts, rebuild these and swap in a set of built JK 44’s for a little extra clearance.

Now I’m trying to find a deal on some new wheels and tires. This stuff adds up fast!
 
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