What did you do to your TJ today?

somewhere in the middle of Utah and the CEL just came on…

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Going to try and track down a code reader in the next town. Who wants to take some guesses?

I’ll Venmo $20 if anyone gets it right.

For future use, you should be able to turn the key on-off-on-off-on-off-on and get the codes to flash on the odometer. (I may have an extra 'on' in that sequence since I can't remember if you keep it 'on' for the third one or hit it off again and then on...)
 
For future use, you should be able to turn the key on-off-on-off-on-off-on and get the codes to flash on the odometer. (I may have an extra 'on' in that sequence since I can't remember if you keep it 'on' for the third one or hit it off again and then on...)

Seriously? That’s awesome. Had no idea.
 
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Jeep wouldn't start today. Put the charger on it. Said fully charged after about 30minutes. Thought that was weird. Click Click Click. Still wouldn't start. Went and got a new battery from Costco anyway. Threw it in. Click Click Click. aaaaaaaaand the starter is bad. GOOD. So, I'll be replacing that tomorrow.

$99

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Well, that was easy.

Duralast Starter 17874 (2005 TJ automatic 4.0) from Autozone $145. 2 bolts and 2 wires. Can easily get to from underneath with the Jeep on the ground. Probably took me 10min if that to put the new one back in.

I called a shop in town just curious to see how much it would cost me for them to put a starter in.

He said:
$240 for the starter
$172.50 for labor
$40 for shop supplies
plus tax
He ballparked it at $450

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Spent the weekend chasing a few possiblities for a P0303 code. New spark plugs gapped at .040 and properly toqued smoothed out the idle and starting. I noticed that my power steering line is leaking right onto the connector and O2 sensor below it. Bought some electronics cleaner and power steering stop leak to see if that might clear up some more.

I've also been having an intermittent issue with the Jeep stalling when coming to a stop, so I bought a tool to check my fuel pressure, but got the unlucky draw and my fuel rail does not have the shcraeder valve. I've been searching, but I'm not having much luck seeing how to hook it up. Should I just do the fuel rail swap to the schraeder equipped fuel rail?

Also have evap codes P0442, P0455, P0456, and P1494. Going to assume that much vacuum leak isn't helping anything run smooth either.
 
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Well, that was easy.

Duralast Starter 17874 (2005 TJ automatic 4.0) from Autozone $145. 2 bolts and 2 wires. Can easily get to from underneath with the Jeep on the ground. Probably took me 10min if that to put the new one back in.

I called a shop in town just curious to see how much it would cost me for them to put a starter in.

He said:
$240 for the starter
$172.50 for labor
$40 for shop supplies
plus tax
He ballparked it at $450

View attachment 417516

Yeah but their starter will probably last the rest of the jeep's life. I've swapped out a 1/2 dozen autozone starters when I was in high school. I'm too old for that nonsense now.
 
Spent the weekend chasing a few possiblities for a P0303 code. New spark plugs gapped at .040 and properly toqued smoothed out the idle and starting. I noticed that my power steering line is leaking right onto the connector and O2 sensor below it. Bought some electronics cleaner and power steering stop leak to see if that might clear up some more.

I've also been having an intermittent issue with the Jeep stalling when coming to a stop, so I bought a tool to check my fuel pressure, but got the unlucky draw and my fuel rail does not have the shcraeder valve. I've been searching, but I'm not having much luck seeing how to hook it up. Should I just do the fuel rail swap to the schraeder equipped fuel rail?

Also have evap codes P0442, P0455, P0456, and P1494. Going to assume that much vacuum leak isn't helping anything run smooth either.

You can buy a hose that has a schrader valve on it. Unhook the lines and put the hose in place. I don’t think it’s meant to be permanent though. Can’t remember where I got mine, but I can look when I get home.

Probably could make one for cheaper than I paid for mine if you know what to buy, which I’m sure some on here do.
 
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The latching mechanism on the rear bracket was already broken from the P.O. shoving it on the wrong pin. Still not sure how it’s latched I can’t reach the bolts to remove the bracket. I’m just trying to get it out now. Thought I might give it a little yank to see if it would pop loose.

It didn’t.

Retrospect, it was a poor idea. I’m going to blame it on a lack of sleep.
 
There's always C4... :oops:

Seriously - before you do further damage, walk away, take a deep breath, get some sleep, and then come back and use this forum to help troubleshoot so that you can employ a scalpel instead of a hatchet!

Repeat after me, "I will respect the LJ. I will respect the LJ. I will respect the LJ." ;)
 
There's always C4... :oops:

Seriously - before you do further damage, walk away, take a deep breath, get some sleep, and then come back and use this forum to help troubleshoot so that you can employ a scalpel instead of a hatchet!

Repeat after me, "I will respect the LJ. I will respect the LJ. I will respect the LJ." ;)

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Spent a couple hours working on my TJ before heading into work tonight. I got the rear shock extenders put on and fought the rear track bar a bit. The old one was kind of wedged against the gas tank skid so it was a bit of a bitch. I guess that happened when I angled my pinion for the SYE and I hadn't noticed it until now. Needless to say it won’t be an issue anymore lol the new adjustable one went in pretty smoothly and the rear axle is centered once again. Score one for me!

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