Basically when reverse is engaged it powers the camera and is displayed. Common aftermarket setup that has worked for me on a few rigs
I've Never Figured Out When Enough Is Enough
- Thread starter EternalHobbyist
- Start date
Basically when reverse is engaged it powers the camera and is displayed. Common aftermarket setup that has worked for me on a few rigs
AdelaideTJ
Member
Yeah, that is what I am shooting for. Just wondered how you connected the reverse signal to the camera? I have seen many cameras have a specific 12v signal wire you can send directly to the reverse lamp wire, but the camera I intend to purchase has a direct proprietary plug (Alpine).
I think I will need to send a separate wire from the dedicated Reverse Remote Out port on my head unit to a wire connected to the reverse lamps + terminal.
Trying to figure out if people typically tap in right near the lamp itself (therefore requiring me to send a signal cable all the way from the headunit to the reverse lamp), or if there is an easily identifiable wire in the dash/fusebox harness, or possibly a dedicated fuse I can use to send that 12v signal to the head unit once I move to reverse, therefore triggering the camera etc.?
Hope that makes sense. Cheers.
I think I will need to send a separate wire from the dedicated Reverse Remote Out port on my head unit to a wire connected to the reverse lamps + terminal.
Trying to figure out if people typically tap in right near the lamp itself (therefore requiring me to send a signal cable all the way from the headunit to the reverse lamp), or if there is an easily identifiable wire in the dash/fusebox harness, or possibly a dedicated fuse I can use to send that 12v signal to the head unit once I move to reverse, therefore triggering the camera etc.?
Hope that makes sense. Cheers.
OP
OK, I see now what you are saying. It sounds like you and I are runnign two different systems for setup.
I used the Boyo VTL17IRTJ Universal backup camera.
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_707V17IRTJ/Boyo-VTL17IRTJ.html
If you look it up on Crutfield, you will be able to see a photo of the wiring. My power wire for the camera begins at the back of the vehicle where there is a disconnect that allows for the camera wire to be routed through small holes in the tailgate/bumper and connected again right inside the vehicle. that is where the power wire ties into the harness.
It sounds like your camera has the power wire all the way back at the head unit. You will likely have to run that wire all the way back to your rear lamps. Unless you can indeed find a way to connect at the fuse panel.
OP
I completed my rear brake project yesterday. I haven't been in a hurry on it, because I wanted to allow time for the fresh paint to harden to hopefully prevent the moving parts from adhering to each other. When I installed those pieces, I slathered them with brake and caliper grease, so I feel pretty good about the end result.
It also took me a little extra time adjusting the new parking brakes. I hadn't done this before, and had to learn both the process to the install and the process for adjusting them. I was all excited to have them installed until I pulled on the parking brake lever and got almost no resistance. haha
Taking the rotor off and putting it back on to test fit happened more than I care to admit. BUT as was the case with installing the new shoes, the second wheel went much faster. I do tend to improve as I to.
For those, like me, who hadn't change parking brakes in 20 years and could use a refresher, I'll try to explain the method that I found worked the best for installing these guys.
For removal, I would remove the small bottom spring first, then remove the adjustment knob by prying the parking shoe out away from the axle. The adjustment knob should drop right out, or come out very easily with plyers. I then removed the two retaining pins on either side. This allowed me to get the first of the heavy upper springs out because removing the retaining pins allow you to have a lot less tension on the springs themselves. I then simply wiggled the old parking shoes out.
Install is essentially the reverse of the removal. Only it can be a little more frustrating as the springs are all new and tend to be stiffer.
For install, I partially assembled the shoes with just the upper rear spring that you can't access once they are installed. I then spread them over the axle an set the left side in place on the bracket. The right shoe, I just left there being held in by the one spring for the time being while I worked on the left shoe. On the left shoe, I installed the retaining pin to hold it in place. Once this was done, I used a small pry bar and manipulated the right shoe into the bracket where it belonged. Once that was in place, I installed the second upper spring. This is important, because if you install the retaining pin before installing the spring, you are going to fight that spring hard to get it installed. Once the spring is installed, you can install the retaining pin on the right shoe. After this, simply installe the adjustment knob and small spring on the bottom. Install is complete at this point, with only adjustment needed.
To adjust the Parking brake, I ended up pulling the adjustment knob back off, and lengthening it prior to reinstalling it. This got me to a much closer starting point and wasn't as annoying and trying to turn that thing with a flat screw driver while it was installed. There is a small rubber grommet on the back of the dust cover plate that allows access to the adjustment knob for the parking brake. You just remove the rubber grommet and get a very short handle flat screw driver to do the adjustment. What I did, is adjusted the parking brake out until my rotor just barely wouldn't fit over the parking brake assembly. Then I backed off a little bit until it fit without any resistance. These seemed to work really well for me.
To test, first, I wanted to feel strong resistance from my parking brake lever. I got that right away once I had them properly adjusted. I also ran the engine and put the car in gear with the parking brake set to test their hold. I had the car on jack stands for this. I also was able to check them independently as I went by activating my air lockers. So I would adjust one side, assemble the rotor, test, remove roter.... then adjust the second side, assemble the rotor, test... all with the locker enabled. Everything seems to be working great.
I have the best parking brakes I've ever had on this vehicle now. I will add the one caviat, that I do not have it down off jackstands yet, so I will still need to test that. I decided to run to the parts store and grab new lug nuts first.
Here are some photos... cause we all know those are more fun than reading the actual post...
Also, don't forget to clean your new rotors to remove their shipping oil/grease!!! Here is the difference it made on mine:
It also took me a little extra time adjusting the new parking brakes. I hadn't done this before, and had to learn both the process to the install and the process for adjusting them. I was all excited to have them installed until I pulled on the parking brake lever and got almost no resistance. haha
Taking the rotor off and putting it back on to test fit happened more than I care to admit. BUT as was the case with installing the new shoes, the second wheel went much faster. I do tend to improve as I to.
For those, like me, who hadn't change parking brakes in 20 years and could use a refresher, I'll try to explain the method that I found worked the best for installing these guys.
For removal, I would remove the small bottom spring first, then remove the adjustment knob by prying the parking shoe out away from the axle. The adjustment knob should drop right out, or come out very easily with plyers. I then removed the two retaining pins on either side. This allowed me to get the first of the heavy upper springs out because removing the retaining pins allow you to have a lot less tension on the springs themselves. I then simply wiggled the old parking shoes out.
Install is essentially the reverse of the removal. Only it can be a little more frustrating as the springs are all new and tend to be stiffer.
For install, I partially assembled the shoes with just the upper rear spring that you can't access once they are installed. I then spread them over the axle an set the left side in place on the bracket. The right shoe, I just left there being held in by the one spring for the time being while I worked on the left shoe. On the left shoe, I installed the retaining pin to hold it in place. Once this was done, I used a small pry bar and manipulated the right shoe into the bracket where it belonged. Once that was in place, I installed the second upper spring. This is important, because if you install the retaining pin before installing the spring, you are going to fight that spring hard to get it installed. Once the spring is installed, you can install the retaining pin on the right shoe. After this, simply installe the adjustment knob and small spring on the bottom. Install is complete at this point, with only adjustment needed.
To adjust the Parking brake, I ended up pulling the adjustment knob back off, and lengthening it prior to reinstalling it. This got me to a much closer starting point and wasn't as annoying and trying to turn that thing with a flat screw driver while it was installed. There is a small rubber grommet on the back of the dust cover plate that allows access to the adjustment knob for the parking brake. You just remove the rubber grommet and get a very short handle flat screw driver to do the adjustment. What I did, is adjusted the parking brake out until my rotor just barely wouldn't fit over the parking brake assembly. Then I backed off a little bit until it fit without any resistance. These seemed to work really well for me.
To test, first, I wanted to feel strong resistance from my parking brake lever. I got that right away once I had them properly adjusted. I also ran the engine and put the car in gear with the parking brake set to test their hold. I had the car on jack stands for this. I also was able to check them independently as I went by activating my air lockers. So I would adjust one side, assemble the rotor, test, remove roter.... then adjust the second side, assemble the rotor, test... all with the locker enabled. Everything seems to be working great.
I have the best parking brakes I've ever had on this vehicle now. I will add the one caviat, that I do not have it down off jackstands yet, so I will still need to test that. I decided to run to the parts store and grab new lug nuts first.
Here are some photos... cause we all know those are more fun than reading the actual post...
Also, don't forget to clean your new rotors to remove their shipping oil/grease!!! Here is the difference it made on mine:
OP
I had a couple of goals over this last weekend. 1) reassemble the steering, replace my brand new brake pads with BMB, and do the brake in process. AND 2) Take the jeep to work and steam clean the engine/trans/tcase.
On the steering, I had been waiting for a new grease boot for my TRE to come in the mail from RockJock. That arrived sometime last week, and was the first thing to go on. I can now confidently say that my steering is without a doubt properly greased.
Replacing the front pads was more interesting than I expected. Apparently, when I had my HP Dana 30 rebuilt last year, they had problems with removing the bolts on the passenger side caliper. I noticed right away that the bolt heads were 13mm on the passenger side, and 12mm on the driver side. When I got the passenger side off, they turned out to brand new grade 8 bolts. Well, when I replaced the pads and put the caliper back on, one of the new bolts didn't thread properly, and I accidentally cross threaded it. I ended up retapping the hole and cleaning up the threads on the two bolts while I was at it.
After that little problem, everything else went smoothly until it came to the brake in process for the new pads. I did my first round of hard brakes, and everything seemed to go fine. On the second time around (after driving around for 15mins to cool down), the brakes pulled HARD to the left. Then when I would drive straight, the jeep now wanted to steer to the right into the ditch. Then left again on hard braking. After the somewhat unsettling second brake in run, I drove the jeep on the highway to my work. By the time I got to work, the jeep was no longer pulling to the right under normal driving. I think that I must have had a stuck caliper and freed itself when I was driving on the highway. But when I got to work, the brake pads on the the front right were actually smoking.
I decided to let the jeep cool down for awhile while I worked on cleaning the engine bay. I later took it home, and let it cool down over night. The next day when I performed the final brake in, it performed flawlessly. This is something I am going to monitor for the next couple of weeks. If I end up with problems, I may just go ahead and replace the calipers to be on the safe side.
On the steering, I had been waiting for a new grease boot for my TRE to come in the mail from RockJock. That arrived sometime last week, and was the first thing to go on. I can now confidently say that my steering is without a doubt properly greased.
Replacing the front pads was more interesting than I expected. Apparently, when I had my HP Dana 30 rebuilt last year, they had problems with removing the bolts on the passenger side caliper. I noticed right away that the bolt heads were 13mm on the passenger side, and 12mm on the driver side. When I got the passenger side off, they turned out to brand new grade 8 bolts. Well, when I replaced the pads and put the caliper back on, one of the new bolts didn't thread properly, and I accidentally cross threaded it. I ended up retapping the hole and cleaning up the threads on the two bolts while I was at it.
After that little problem, everything else went smoothly until it came to the brake in process for the new pads. I did my first round of hard brakes, and everything seemed to go fine. On the second time around (after driving around for 15mins to cool down), the brakes pulled HARD to the left. Then when I would drive straight, the jeep now wanted to steer to the right into the ditch. Then left again on hard braking. After the somewhat unsettling second brake in run, I drove the jeep on the highway to my work. By the time I got to work, the jeep was no longer pulling to the right under normal driving. I think that I must have had a stuck caliper and freed itself when I was driving on the highway. But when I got to work, the brake pads on the the front right were actually smoking.
I decided to let the jeep cool down for awhile while I worked on cleaning the engine bay. I later took it home, and let it cool down over night. The next day when I performed the final brake in, it performed flawlessly. This is something I am going to monitor for the next couple of weeks. If I end up with problems, I may just go ahead and replace the calipers to be on the safe side.
OP
While at work, I cleaned the engine bay. I didn't get too crazy. I just wanted it to be clean so that I could see if I have any active leaks. I sprayed the engine down with degreaser, let it sit for 15mins, then rinsed it off with a 200* pressure wash, then repeated the process. When that was done, I had a little engine degreaser left, and went ahead and sprayed down the transmission and transfer case as well. It was pretty entertaining to see the improvement. I tried to take pictures...
BEFORE:
AFTER:
BEFORE (It has engine degreaser on it in this picture... I forgot to take a dry before picture):
After:
BEFORE:
AFTER:
I only got 'after' pictures of the transmission and transfer case, but they still turned out pretty nice:
BEFORE:
AFTER:
BEFORE (It has engine degreaser on it in this picture... I forgot to take a dry before picture):
After:
BEFORE:
AFTER:
I only got 'after' pictures of the transmission and transfer case, but they still turned out pretty nice:
OP
Yesterday, I took off from work a little early and decided to go home and stop procrastinating on installing my hardtop lift that has been sitting in my garage for the last 4 moths. I've just been kind of low key not looking forward to the install. And, just as I expected, it was a PITA. Not a huge deal, just a little annoying when I was hoping I could just hammer it out real quick. It definitely wasn't quick.
Most of my time was spent debating where to put it so that I could easily plug it into one of my lighting plugs. I ended up mocking it up in three different locations before I settled on the final spot. I still kind of wish I would have put it on my garage wall as that would have given me just a little bit more height, but I did at least get it working and funcitonal. Maybe someday when I'm bored, I'll move it.
I think this lift would be excelent with taller ceilings. But with my ceiling height, it really isn't ideal. I bet it still took me 20 minutes to get the top off, but I was definitely able to do it myself without any help. So I guess the goal was accomplished. OK, enough rambling... here are the photos. I know thats the only reason you're here anyways.
I have the bracket mounted on the hardtop here. I was trying to locate exactly where I wanted the cables to drop down from the ceiling:
Here I got the framing in place and the winch mounted with the cables dropping in the correct locations:
Next, I needed to install the bracket and level it as best I could:
And now, Jeep is back in place, everything mounted up, and my first attempt at a solo hardtop removal:
It was stuck on there pretty tight.... I had it off once last year, and that was it. But, with a little elbow grease, once it was loose, the lift pulled it free without any trouble at all:
Still a little bit of a balance issue (I could move the rear attachment point back on hole), but she hangs free:
I don't think I've ever graced this thread with a topless photo....
All in all, I'm glad I have the lift. I'd rather have it then not, and it will serve its purpose.
Most of my time was spent debating where to put it so that I could easily plug it into one of my lighting plugs. I ended up mocking it up in three different locations before I settled on the final spot. I still kind of wish I would have put it on my garage wall as that would have given me just a little bit more height, but I did at least get it working and funcitonal. Maybe someday when I'm bored, I'll move it.
I think this lift would be excelent with taller ceilings. But with my ceiling height, it really isn't ideal. I bet it still took me 20 minutes to get the top off, but I was definitely able to do it myself without any help. So I guess the goal was accomplished. OK, enough rambling... here are the photos. I know thats the only reason you're here anyways.
I have the bracket mounted on the hardtop here. I was trying to locate exactly where I wanted the cables to drop down from the ceiling:
Here I got the framing in place and the winch mounted with the cables dropping in the correct locations:
Next, I needed to install the bracket and level it as best I could:
And now, Jeep is back in place, everything mounted up, and my first attempt at a solo hardtop removal:
It was stuck on there pretty tight.... I had it off once last year, and that was it. But, with a little elbow grease, once it was loose, the lift pulled it free without any trouble at all:
Still a little bit of a balance issue (I could move the rear attachment point back on hole), but she hangs free:
I don't think I've ever graced this thread with a topless photo....
All in all, I'm glad I have the lift. I'd rather have it then not, and it will serve its purpose.
You should raise the hoist system so you can get the top closer to the ceiling.
You could always reconfigure so you can get the top up in the roof too.
OP
You are correct. That is exactly what I need to do, and it would be easy to block it up a little higher. I think yesterday I was so frustrated at how long it was taking me, that I just needed to walk away from it at a certain point.
OP
Well, I thought I'd post one final update before I take off for Moab. I've had a pretty busy week preparing my staff at work for me being gone a week, maximizing time with my kids and SO, and planning to make sure I don't forget to bring anything too significant on the trip. But there are a few odds and end that I got done on the Jeep worth mentioning.
I finally got a wall mount for my doors. This was a long overdue addition that I just never got around to purchasing over the years, but I'm pretty excited to be able to store them off the ground this summer for topless/doorless days:
I also adjusted the hardtop hoist to at least hold the top a little more level before I put it back on the Jeep. Still need to raise it, but that'll wait until I get back from Moab at this point:
I also finally got my safari top in.....
Only to find out that the above top is for the drilless windshied header..... I have the drill type. GRRRRRRRR
I went online and grabbed the correct top this time and it is now sitting in my garage waiting for install on the next nice day.
However, on my way to Moab, I'll be stopping in Denver area and picking up a prestine nearly NOS soft top, so I'm not sure if this purchase is a moot point or not. But I figured if I want to run topless in Moab, at least I'll have something to keep me out of the sun.
And moving on to the install of my drill in header... Here are the photos from that. This project was far more annoying than I anticipated. IDK if they expect me to remove that header each time I put my hardtop on or not, but I'm really not interested in doing that at all. So I chopped the header up to fir it on with the hardtop. It worked out fine, just added some annoyance. I still need to paint it, but I was running out of time so I'm just running it unpainted for the time being.
What's an install without the brand new supplied hardware snapping on you in the process.... See the right side of the photo below...
I guess I forgot to get pictures of it completed! haha whooops. If I think of it later, I'll run out and grab some with the hardtop back on.
I finally got a wall mount for my doors. This was a long overdue addition that I just never got around to purchasing over the years, but I'm pretty excited to be able to store them off the ground this summer for topless/doorless days:
I also adjusted the hardtop hoist to at least hold the top a little more level before I put it back on the Jeep. Still need to raise it, but that'll wait until I get back from Moab at this point:
I also finally got my safari top in.....
Only to find out that the above top is for the drilless windshied header..... I have the drill type. GRRRRRRRR
I went online and grabbed the correct top this time and it is now sitting in my garage waiting for install on the next nice day.
However, on my way to Moab, I'll be stopping in Denver area and picking up a prestine nearly NOS soft top, so I'm not sure if this purchase is a moot point or not. But I figured if I want to run topless in Moab, at least I'll have something to keep me out of the sun.
And moving on to the install of my drill in header... Here are the photos from that. This project was far more annoying than I anticipated. IDK if they expect me to remove that header each time I put my hardtop on or not, but I'm really not interested in doing that at all. So I chopped the header up to fir it on with the hardtop. It worked out fine, just added some annoyance. I still need to paint it, but I was running out of time so I'm just running it unpainted for the time being.
What's an install without the brand new supplied hardware snapping on you in the process.... See the right side of the photo below...
I guess I forgot to get pictures of it completed! haha whooops. If I think of it later, I'll run out and grab some with the hardtop back on.
Great thread, thanks for sharing and documenting everything so nicely.
You're going to love moab. Looking forward to pic.
You're going to love moab. Looking forward to pic.
OP
Hey all! I cannot believe it has been a year since I have been on here! Life and time just got away from me!
I spent this winter doing a MASSIVE remodel project on my basement, so my Jeep has sat somewhat neglected in the garage all winter. BUT, I thought I'd bring this thread up to date with what happened after I got back from Moab last year.
My Moab trip last year was cut short due to a personal thing back home, but the one day I did spend there was really such an incredible experience. I got out there and met up with @JMT and we hit Hell's Revenge as my very frist off-road trail.... ever. Aside from the main trail, the only major obstacle I did was Hell's Gate. It went really well. My mind was blown by what these vehicles are capable of! I'll post some pics when I get a chance. My phone is being dumb and won't recognize the cable plugin. grr (I had to email myself all of the photos I am about to post)
Toward the end of Hell's Revenge, I lost steering. We barely got it off the trail. I ended up putting my jeep on the trailer and riding with @JMT on Fins and Things before heading back to camp and later deciding to leave Moab.
The short story, is that during my front end repairs/upgrades earlier that year, I had replaced my frame bracket/mount that holds the steering box in place. Despite my lack of experience in welding, I had decided to weld the new bracket on myself. If you don't try, you're never going to learn. Well, that weld failed spectacularly. When I got home (and after I repaired it), I realized what had happened. In my nervousness to execute the weld properly, I forgot to turn the gas on. Yup. I made that bad of a mistake. #facepalm How I excepted that ugly of a weld as good enough????? No idea. I was probably just in a hurry and excited to be done with that portion of the project. No excuses here.
And staying true to my walk of shame.... here is the photo of the damage and broken 'weld':
The above welds clearly didn't even try to penetrate.
When I got home, I had to decide... do I make a second attempt at welding this myself??? OR Do I just accept defeat and send it to a shop to be welded? Well, I really do want to learn how to weld properly, so I went with Option #1. The problem was, at the time, I didn't realize I hadn't turned on the gas! So, instead of turning on the gas and trying again... I decided it was the machine's fault. lol I proceeded to list my current welder for sale on FB marketplace, and purchase myself the dream upgrade I had always wanted. Let's face it, it was a pretty decent excuse to get something newer and cooler.
Out with the Old:
AAAAAND In with the NEW:
To say I love my new toy, would probably be the understatement of the century. Now that I at least believed I was set up for success, I proceeded with the repair.
First, I coated the inside of the new bracket with POR15 (of course, I left some clean edges for the weld to stick to):
Then I got busy cleaning up the frame to mount the new piece:
Then I dry fit the new piece:
And then tacked it on:
Then I burned it permanently into place:
Those are the only pictures I have of the unpainted weld. I did finish the weld in the front there as you will see in these final photos.
And finally, completed with a fresh coat of POR15 + Top Coat:
I spent this winter doing a MASSIVE remodel project on my basement, so my Jeep has sat somewhat neglected in the garage all winter. BUT, I thought I'd bring this thread up to date with what happened after I got back from Moab last year.
My Moab trip last year was cut short due to a personal thing back home, but the one day I did spend there was really such an incredible experience. I got out there and met up with @JMT and we hit Hell's Revenge as my very frist off-road trail.... ever. Aside from the main trail, the only major obstacle I did was Hell's Gate. It went really well. My mind was blown by what these vehicles are capable of! I'll post some pics when I get a chance. My phone is being dumb and won't recognize the cable plugin. grr (I had to email myself all of the photos I am about to post)
Toward the end of Hell's Revenge, I lost steering. We barely got it off the trail. I ended up putting my jeep on the trailer and riding with @JMT on Fins and Things before heading back to camp and later deciding to leave Moab.
The short story, is that during my front end repairs/upgrades earlier that year, I had replaced my frame bracket/mount that holds the steering box in place. Despite my lack of experience in welding, I had decided to weld the new bracket on myself. If you don't try, you're never going to learn. Well, that weld failed spectacularly. When I got home (and after I repaired it), I realized what had happened. In my nervousness to execute the weld properly, I forgot to turn the gas on. Yup. I made that bad of a mistake. #facepalm How I excepted that ugly of a weld as good enough????? No idea. I was probably just in a hurry and excited to be done with that portion of the project. No excuses here.
And staying true to my walk of shame.... here is the photo of the damage and broken 'weld':
The above welds clearly didn't even try to penetrate.
When I got home, I had to decide... do I make a second attempt at welding this myself??? OR Do I just accept defeat and send it to a shop to be welded? Well, I really do want to learn how to weld properly, so I went with Option #1. The problem was, at the time, I didn't realize I hadn't turned on the gas! So, instead of turning on the gas and trying again... I decided it was the machine's fault. lol I proceeded to list my current welder for sale on FB marketplace, and purchase myself the dream upgrade I had always wanted. Let's face it, it was a pretty decent excuse to get something newer and cooler.
Out with the Old:
AAAAAND In with the NEW:
To say I love my new toy, would probably be the understatement of the century. Now that I at least believed I was set up for success, I proceeded with the repair.
First, I coated the inside of the new bracket with POR15 (of course, I left some clean edges for the weld to stick to):
Then I got busy cleaning up the frame to mount the new piece:
Then I dry fit the new piece:
And then tacked it on:
Then I burned it permanently into place:
Those are the only pictures I have of the unpainted weld. I did finish the weld in the front there as you will see in these final photos.
And finally, completed with a fresh coat of POR15 + Top Coat:
I don't think the gas has anything to do with it. It's painfully obvious when the gas isn't on because the arc makes a lot of weird noises & the weld ends up looking like swiss cheese. IMO I think your settings were too low or you moved too fast. You can tell because the welds favor the bracket instead of the frame. When welding horizontally you need to angle slightly upwards because the puddle will naturally fall to the lower part of the joint.
Your new welds look good from what I can tell from the pictures. Also congrats on the new machine & sticking with learning a new skill. Going from the transformer based old machine to the inverter based new machine you may notice a more stable & consistent arc.
Your new welds look good from what I can tell from the pictures. Also congrats on the new machine & sticking with learning a new skill. Going from the transformer based old machine to the inverter based new machine you may notice a more stable & consistent arc.
I wondered if you dropped off the planet
! Welcome back. Looking forward to some pics from our day on Hells Revenge!
I wondered if you dropped off the planet
Looks like you posted one in the ROTM thread
If you're looking to get back to Moab several of us will be there in June. You can test out your new welds.
OP
Thank you for taking the time to put together this diagram, and to give me your input. These are the things that I clearly have yet to learn. I had my previous welder turn all the way up, but maybe I just went to fast. I don't remember it all that clearly anymore. lol