BMB (Black Magic Brakes) body lift kit available now!

Just get rainbow and have all your bases covered. Next month is June after all.

giphy (20).gif
 
The black is also what makes it highly UV resistant. My only question I have about this stuff is whether or not it would be beneficial to put out a rust belt option with quality stainless steel hardware in the appropriate grade. The pucks will never rust, or corrode, or collapse, that just leaves problematic hardware.
I’m a rust belter. Half the time I replace supplied or stock hardware with stainless from my local nut and bolt supplier. I actually prefer grade 8 or a good quality zinc or cadmium coated bolt they seem to last as long if not longer in the salty winters of NY.
I just think of the logistics of you stocking two different hardware bags. 🤷🏼‍♂️
I, for one, can’t wait for my BMB body lift to arrive 😉🇺🇸
 
The price is based around my philosophy that they are the working end of your recovery gear and will get abused and are therefore very expendable. Everyone needs a few in their gear bag so they don't wind up using something that may be compromised through abuse.

I also need to find a really horrid color. Fully 75% of the folks who order tell me to pick the color for them. When they start getting bright fluorescent pink ones, they may develop an opinion worthy of mention as to color choice.

I myself, I'm very partial to that green one above. The pics do it no justice as it practically glows in the daylight. By far my favorite and I've got 150 of them on the way.

All the red stuff I’ve bought has faded to a fairly disgusting shade of salmon, if you want to go for the long play.
 
The black is also what makes it highly UV resistant. My only question I have about this stuff is whether or not it would be beneficial to put out a rust belt option with quality stainless steel hardware in the appropriate grade. The pucks will never rust, or corrode, or collapse, that just leaves problematic hardware.

I'd skip the stainless. The problem with stainless bolts is that in the presence of an electrolyte (such as salt water or even moist salty air) it rapidly accelerates galvanic corrosion of the surrounding materials. The bolt itself won't rust, for sure, but it will accelerate the rate of corrosion of everything around it.

In the presence of an electrolyte, stainless fasteners are mostly only appropriate for stainless materials. When used with steel or aluminum, the significantly different galvanic potential creates a galvanic cell. You can actually measure the difference with a voltmeter in some situations.

A better solution is to focus on fasteners with a high quality zinc plating or galvanization. Even when some of the underlying steel is exposed, the fastener does not rust in the presence of an electrolyte, because the zinc sacrificially corrodes, thereby protecting the bolt itself and even the surrounding metal. However, once the zinc runs out, regular corrosion will begin on both the fastner and the base metal.

galvanic series noble metals.jpg

When coupled electrically, dissimilar metals create a galvanic cell, the intensity of which is driven by the difference in electopotential as shown in the above chart. More cathodic metals are protected by more anodic metals. The more anodic metals are eroded as a result.

This is the same reason boats have zinc blocks on the hull and your water heater has that one anode you have to replace every 5-10 years. It's a sacrificial anode designed to protect the surrounding metal. Zinc coated bolts have the same effect; though they aren't necessarily intended to protect a large amount of exposed metal around it. If you replaced those zinc items with stainless, sure they will last forever. But they will actually begin to accelerate corrosion of the metal around it.
 
PXL_20230504_104810853.jpg

Haven't put them to use yet but I like the orange. They're larger than any of the soft shackles I'm retiring, as well.

While we're talking BMB and Wizard Recovery Gear do you have any plans for synthetic winch line @mrblaine ? Or a recommendation.

I need to replace my line this summer.
 
I'd skip the stainless. The problem with stainless bolts is that in the presence of an electrolyte (such as salt water or even moist salty air) it rapidly accelerates galvanic corrosion of the surrounding materials. The bolt itself won't rust, for sure, but it will accelerate the rate of corrosion of everything around it.

In the presence of an electrolyte, stainless fasteners are mostly only appropriate for stainless materials. When used with steel or aluminum, the significantly different galvanic potential creates a galvanic cell. You can actually measure the difference with a voltmeter in some situations.

A better solution is to focus on fasteners with a high quality zinc plating or galvanization. Even when some of the underlying steel is exposed, the fastener does not rust in the presence of an electrolyte, because the zinc sacrificially corrodes, thereby protecting the bolt itself and even the surrounding metal. However, once the zinc runs out, regular corrosion will begin on both the fastner and the base metal.

View attachment 421855
When coupled electrically, dissimilar metals create a galvanic cell, the intensity of which is driven by the difference in electopotential as shown in the above chart. More cathodic metals are protected by more anodic metals. The more anodic metals are eroded as a result.

This is the same reason boats have zinc blocks on the hull and your water heater has that one anode you have to replace every 5-10 years. It's a sacrificial anode designed to protect the surrounding metal. Zinc coated bolts have the same effect; though they aren't necessarily intended to protect a large amount of exposed metal around it. If you replaced those zinc items with stainless, sure they will last forever. But they will actually begin to accelerate corrosion of the metal around it.

We used PTFE coated fasteners offshore.

1683198995843.jpeg
 
View attachment 421856
Haven't put them to use yet but I like the orange. They're larger than any of the soft shackles I'm retiring, as well.

While we're talking BMB and Wizard Recovery Gear do you have any plans for synthetic winch line @mrblaine ? Or a recommendation.

I need to replace my line this summer.

I have samples of winch line I am evaluating right now.

DSC01351.JPG
 
Last edited:
Excellent...need a couple more...bad Mac using mine on too sharp of a shackle mount. Any tips for radiusing a shackle point other than jam in and whirl a carbide bit until I'm satisfied?

View attachment 421832

-Mac

Anything that eases the sharp edge will work. I'd start with the carbide double cut bit to get some material removed faster and then tune that up with a sanding drum.
 
  • Like
Reactions: macleanflood
View attachment 421856
Haven't put them to use yet but I like the orange. They're larger than any of the soft shackles I'm retiring, as well.

While we're talking BMB and Wizard Recovery Gear do you have any plans for synthetic winch line @mrblaine ? Or a recommendation.

I need to replace my line this summer.

That's the same combo I went for, but now I'm imagining the potential for disappearing in fallen leaves, and the dirt here is red. I'll probably go for a blue next time around. Even the obnoxiously bright green could potentially camouflage itself in our intense foliage during the rainy season.
 
Which color is that?

I painted my axe fluorescent yellow and it disappears in the fall leaves.

I think I read blue is the most visible color in the woods.

-Mac

Likely going to be regional based on your particular flavor of nature. Our desert stuff will show off any of the bright non earth toned colors with a quickness.

Avoid silvers, grays, browns, blacks, it will likely be easily spotted.

1683203960285.png
 
  • Like
Reactions: PNW_LJ
Oddly, (read that as dumb) there is or was a 1/2" body lift so mine is 2.5 times as much and only 2.4 times as small as a 3" so not quite in the middle of that mess and closer to 3" than it is to 1/2".

I agree that the 1/2” body lift is dumb.I should know because I have one. Now I’m thinking why the hell did I do that much work for only 1/2”. Should have went 1” or 1 1/4”. Yes I know that installing a body lift is easy but you do run the risk of breaking the mounts.
 
Likely going to be regional based on your particular flavor of nature. Our desert stuff will show off any of the bright non earth toned colors with a quickness.

Avoid silvers, grays, browns, blacks, it will likely be easily spotted.

View attachment 421910

Probably seasonal too. Green would work great in the fall and winter when everything on the ground is red, orange, and brown, and then May hits and...

PXL_20230504_125132709.jpg
 
  • Like
Reactions: PNW_LJ
The price is based around my philosophy that they are the working end of your recovery gear and will get abused and are therefore very expendable. Everyone needs a few in their gear bag so they don't wind up using something that may be compromised through abuse.

I also need to find a really horrid color. Fully 75% of the folks who order tell me to pick the color for them. When they start getting bright fluorescent pink ones, they may develop an opinion worthy of mention as to color choice.

I myself, I'm very partial to that green one above. The pics do it no justice as it practically glows in the daylight. By far my favorite and I've got 150 of them on the way.

Bright and loud color, so they can be found. My son wants everything camo, drop it at night and it’s like keys in a river of lace, they gone.