Always great to see photos in hand. Can I link to your photos in the 1st post?
BMB (Black Magic Brakes) body lift kit available now!
- Thread starter psrivats
- Start date
Always great to see photos in hand. Can I link to your photos in the 1st post?
spiccolli
Member
So I've been looking for a body lift ATM and i'm wondering why Blaine's kit isn't as extensive as the daystar? is all their stuff necessary, or do you have to get more stuff with BMB kit? and what about motor mounts?
Seems to me that if you are doing a 1 or 1.25 body lift that the kit should include absolutely everything that you would need to do it right.
Seems to me that if you are doing a 1 or 1.25 body lift that the kit should include absolutely everything that you would need to do it right.
Blaine's kit has all you need to lift the body. If you are lifting the engine you'd need to source a MML.
That kit replaces the stock rubber mounts with poly mounts and therefore has more pieces. Can't imagine that being a great idea.
The electrolyte is the acid in the battery, with the two differing metals are the + and -, but instead of the terminals being separated, they're threaded together in a direct short to create a constant flow of ions between them.
Quite simply, a galvanic cell is a single-cell battery. There are two hard components to the circuit: the anode and the cathode. The electrolyte and the metal-to-metal connection are what create a complete circuit.
When two dissimilar metals are electrically connected (such as when they touch, or you connect them with a wire) and placed in the same conductive electrolyte (in our case salt water), the difference between the reactivity between the metals and the saltwater creates a voltage difference between the two metals. Since they are connected, electrons naturally flow from the low voltage source to the high voltage source (don't forget electrons are negative charge).
The low voltage side of the cell is the anode, and the high side is the cathode. At the anode, water and various contaminants react with the metal, oxidizing it. When they do so, electrons are liberated from the newly single hydrogen atoms, which become H+, or more simply, a proton with no electron. They remain in solution in the water, increasing the acidity. The oxygen atom from the water molecule reacts with the metal in the cathode, corroding it, and often releasing part of it in solution, depending upon the exact metal present.
Meanwhile, the cathode doesn't react with the surrounding fluid directly because it is receiving an excess amount of electrons, more than enough to prevent it from corroding. Instead, it serves as a sink for electrons, and actually dumps them into the solution. For example, it may convert the single H+ ions into hydrogen molecules (consisting of two hydrogen nuclei and two electrons) by giving the ions electrons. It may also convert water and dissolved oxygen into OH- (hydroxide) ions. (The balance of hydronium and hydroxide ions determines the acidity or alkalinity of the solution. At a pH of 7, the concentration of hydronium ions equals that of hydroxide ions, meaning pOH is also 7).
So this forms a complete circuit. Electrons are stripped from the solution at the anode as the anode corrodes, and are redeposited in the solution at the cathode, which does not corrode at all. Break the circuit either by separating the electrolyte or by cutting the wire (or other connection) between the two pieces of metal, and the flow of electrons stops, and the galvanic corrosion halts. (Note that other types of corrosion may still occur at much slower rates.)
This circuit is exactly what batteries are, including the lead-acid battery under the hood. By stacking a number of cells in series, you can increase the total voltage, and do useful work with it. Even on large structures with galvanic protection or active galvanic corrosion, the current flowing from cathode to anode (conventional current) is usually measurable with just a simple multimeter. Break the circuit at the connection and you can still measure the voltage potential between the two items.
To protect against it, there are a few options:
(1), you can simply electrically isolate the two metals. This is where rubber washers, sleeves and other components come into play. For example, the TJ isolates the body from the frame, probably to try and prevent accelerated corrosion due to somewhat dissimilar metals. (Of course the brake lines messed that up.)
(2), you can use a sacrificial metal to erode to protect your metal. By choosing a more anodic metal and placing it in direct electrical contact with the metal you want to protect, you can stop corrosion of the protected metal, as long as it is in the same continuous electrolyte as the sacrificial metal. This is what zinc blocks are for on boats, and why steel sheet and steel bolts are often galvanized or zinc coated. Even if you chip some plating off, the corrosion of the surrounding zinc prevents the steel from corroding. However, once the zinc runs out or is no longer in the same continuous electrolyte, protection ends. Hence why you rarely find zinc blocks on cars, but instead things are galvanized and zinc plated where possible.
(3), you can apply an active voltage driver to the circuit and keep the voltage too high for electrons to flow. This is used very often in underground and underwater pipelines, and in large coastal structures (such as oil rigs). Instead of letting current flow freely, you drive it in reverse. The better the electrical isolation is between the two metals, the less current you need. This is exactly the same principle as "float charging" a battery. Simply keep the applied voltage a bit higher than the anticipated electropotential difference, and no significant corrosion occurs.
In regards to #3, if you drive it with a high enough potential in a solution containing metal ions, you can deposit a different type of metal onto the surface of the base metal. This is called electroplating. This is how you can deposit a silver or gold layer onto a cheaper metal only a few atoms thick. In the reverse potential, it is even a method of galvanization called "electrogalvanization". Electrogalvanization is chemically equivalent to charging a battery. Galvanic corrosion is discharging that same battery.
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I did finally get a hold of Gerald a couple days ago and he told me next week. If it doesn't ship out next week I'll do just that.
For some easier to read material, the Wikipedia entry is a good introduction to galvanic corrosion:
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Galvanic_corrosion
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Galvanic_corrosion
My immediate reaction to that is to tell you to piss off then I remember that not everyone understands why stuff is the way it is.
My goal is to solve a problem which is the availability of a quality 1.25" body lift. There are tons of 1" motor mount lift blocks out there, I don't need to make them. There is nothing better for the tub and frame than to re-use the existing style of OEM body mounts with a lift puck on them. That maintains the stock isolation and protects the torque boxes from getting the threaded holes ripped out or the box itself cracked. We've fixed several due to folks running the Daystar crap since they have near zero isolation or flex. It always starts the same. Hey, I've got a creaking, popping, snap noise at the right front. Any ideas? Are you running a Daystar body lift? Yes, how did guess? Check the torque box for cracks. Then pull the mount and see if it is cracked around the bolt hole.
Also precisely the reason we only extend the OEM snubbers under the grill. Take a look at what they do sometime when someone has a rig all crossed up on the trail. The amount the front of the frame moves is pretty amazing. The OEM snubbers are pretty squishy for a reason so I don't and won't do the extended urethane versions which are way too stiff to be proper.
That said, do you have a particular tool brand you are fond of? If I have to send absolutely everything you need to do it right, may as well get those in there.
Just so you know, the easiest way to tell you've never sold anything to the general public is by what you just wrote. I really like package deals and having everything you need. As soon as I put up one that has a good cable shifter, proper body lift, and a motor mount lift block set in it along with 4 self tappers to lower the fan shroud, the very first question I will get before a single package sells is from the guy who already has a motor mount lift and doesn't want mine. The next guy will want it without the body lift, the next one will want it without the cable shifter since he got one for Christmas. And the next one will want to know what a self tapper is. The next will want to know why the XYZ body mount kit is cheaper even though it doesn't have a cable shifter and MML.
You are building a simple battery with a cathode, anode, and electrolyte. Got it.
Yup. And it can be devastating. Worked in a marine related field for about 25 years - we fought galvanic corrosion constantly. Had to check for ground faults to "seawater ground" constantly for the electronic systems. If there was ONE connection to seawater ground, that was OK. But two or more would cause currents to flow where you didn't want them to flow and metals would "go off" real quick. That was in addition to the usual galvanic corrosion. If we found a seawater ground fault, we would shut off the instrument that was causing it until we could get out there and do something about it (read: change out the instrument).
The question is whether or not Daystar improves on the factory body mount isolator. Blaine's two body lift designs do not disrupt the function and performance of the factory body mount isolators.
Bottom line? I should stick to the zinc coated hardware and stay away from the stainless?
It doesn't replace any of the stock mounts, these body lifts are meant to go on top of the existing OEM rubber mounts.
For your application? I dunno - BUT - zinc coatings would dissolve in a matter of weeks in my world - in fact, we used Zinc as a sacrificial anode so that would "go off" instead of everything else. As far as stainless goes, we used 816, and 816 ONLY. Even that would corrode unless it was passivated and polished.
I got mine too. It’s for my sons jeep which won’t be home for service for a few months due to his active duty.
It seems I should remove my 1” M.O.R.E. body lift and install this on my LJ since it’s here and I want to.
I’ll just need to order another one for the boy.
♂
I’ll keep y’all posted.
It seems I should remove my 1” M.O.R.E. body lift and install this on my LJ since it’s here and I want to.
I’ll just need to order another one for the boy.
♂I’ll keep y’all posted.
@mrblaine these look like a great product with great timing. Have you floated the idea of offering a "modified" kit for those of us wishing to install the raised body mounts? Meaning, a kit that offers just the remaining five pucks with hardware + grill snubbers? I'd definitely be interested in something like that since it would avoid having to buy a full kit and not using six pucks due to the raised mounts. Thanks in advance...
spiccolli
Member
I appreciate your feedback and I do trust in your kit - I'm just not knowledgeable enough to know exactly what I need for a body lift. Do I need a MML if i do a body lift? - I'm that guy that doesn't understand why stuff is the way it is - I'm IT and just learning about my TJ now. Anyone know of a thread that explains body lift and how it affects the motor mounts, transmission mount, radiator, etc? - Thanks - just trying to learn before I do something to my rig that I regret.