Oil filter question

Planepal

Planepal

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Joined
May 8, 2023
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Location
Clarkdale AZ
I know a WIX 51515 filter is not the correct oil filter for a TJ but I have a few of them left over after I sold my Scout. It looks the same just about 2 inches longer than the WIX listed filter. I thought I saw a former forum article where someone said they were using the 51515 on their TJ. I actually don’t have a TJ just yet but I’m in the process of buying a 2006 Unlimited Rubicon. I have a JK Gladiator but am looking forward to something a little smaller for the trails here in AZ. Any advice on what to be wary of on this model would be appreciated. I know Scouts very well but my Jeep knowledge is limited. Thanks.
 
I know the rear main seal has a small oil leak whichI know is very common on the 4.0 motor. How hard is it to change. I had a 1991 Cherokee with that motor and it ran great with no problems.
 
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51515 changes to a B2 Baldwin and I have been running those on my TJ for a while now so you should be fine.
 
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Planepal said:
I know the rear main seal has a small oil leak whichI know is very common on the 4.0 motor. How hard is it to change. I had a 1991 Cherokee with that motor and it ran great with no problems.
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Stick around and you'll find probably the best auto forum in the world is right here. Lots of people to help, and great advice, with the normal jabbing. The RMS seal can be a bear because you have to remove the exhaust to get the oil pan removed and then to the RMS. Many people here get good results by just changing to conventional High Mileage 10w-30. The additives evidently soften the dried out gaskets and seals and solve the problem. If that doesn't work, I'd cut the exhaust just in front of the skid, buy a sleeve to put it back together, but that way you can remove the front portion of the exhaust a lot easier, and if you have to service that area again you can just remove the sleeve and drop the exhaust again. For the how to of an RMS, there are threads you can search that take you step by step. Welcome to the forum!
 
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JMT said:
Stick around and you'll find probably the best auto forum in the world is right here. Lots of people to help, and great advice, with the normal jabbing. The RMS seal can be a bear because you have to remove the exhaust to get the oil pan removed and then to the RMS. Many people here get good results by just changing to conventional High Mileage 10w-30. The additives evidently soften the dried out gaskets and seals and solve the problem. If that doesn't work, I'd cut the exhaust just in front of the skid, buy a sleeve to put it back together, but that way you can remove the front portion of the exhaust a lot easier, and if you have to service that area again you can just remove the sleeve and drop the exhaust again. For the how to of an RMS, there are threads you can search that take you step by step. Welcome to the forum!
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Thanks. I’ll try that
 
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