Mystery while measuring ignition wire resistance

Jerry Bransford

Too many arguments and personal attacks, I'm done.
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I had a local guy over at my house yesterday with a bad misfire on his 2000 2.5L TJ. He had spent way too much time trying to get the #1 spark plug out, the one behind the a/c compressor and I said to come on over. Between a 3/8" wobble joint and my impact wrench on its lowest power setting we finally got it out and the new spark plug in but it was still misfiring badly, actually worse at one point. I thought maybe his one or two of his Duralast ignition wires might have pulled apart inside and got my multimeter out.

They normally measure no less than 500 ohms per foot but I was getting an infinite/open connection with the meter on its X10 scale which would have put it at mid-scale with 500 ohms. Nothing. Nothing with any of the other range scales either, it showed open on the #2 and #1 plug wires I checked. And yes I have measured ignition wiring many times over many years... and never had one measure open/no ohms at all no matter what the scale. Yes it swung over to 0 ohms when touching the probes together. We zoomed up to O Reillys auto parts to buy a new set of ignition wires. I asked to use their meter to see if the new wires showed the expected 500 ohms or anything close. Nothing, their meter read open too!

I KNOW how to use a multimeter, have been using them since the 60's. I am mystified. It's running well now after he drove it home. About the only other thing I did was tighten the exhaust manifold bolts closest to the #1 plug since they were a little loose and might have been letting air in since the codes said both #1 misfire and #1 fuel mixture too lean. Maybe that was the fix, hard to say at this point.

So he said it's running well now after driving it home but my question is why did two different meters show an open between the two ends of two ignition wires. On the X1, X10, X1000 scales even though the X10 would have been the best scale with it supposed to being 500 ohms per foot and these two particular ignition wires were about a foot long. New battery in my multimeter too.
 
If you were pulling the spark plug behind the A/C compressor wouldn't it have been the #1 spark plug not the #4 spark plug?

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As far as your funny readings on the spark plug wires I really can't help. I've either gotten low readings like you'd expect for a good wire or very high resistance showing a bad plug wire.
 
It depends on if copper core or some composite… copper core I would expect 500-1k per foot. There are 3 measurements that happen in a wire, resistance, leakage and last but totally worthless is the capacitance of the wire. Leakage and resistance are the only 2 that count. If new wires fixes the problem, then it was most likely a leakage issue that is what I would guess. Good luck
 
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Carbon arc in cap? Faulty coil? Did you measure primary or secondary side? Is it a fluke or Simpson meter? Just trying to help by asking quality questions…
 
I'll take a guess at it. A high voltage spike from a coil going down a wire will easily jump tiny gaps in the conductor. A meter will just see an open. Is the core in those wires something which can crack, like a carbon composite? If so, can you get a twitch on a needle-type meter if you flex the wire while testing?
 
Were the wires solid or braided copper? I know plug wires used to have a carbon core that would read funny on a multi-meter, but would work fine. I think Buzz is correct - a 20 kv impulse will easily jump short gaps in the wire. If there is a fault in the wire, it will also happily leave the wire and go to the nearest ground. (You can check that on a dark night.)
 
Was one of the ends of the plug an open O instead of a cap? As in was it closer to a ring connector than a cap? Pushing the leads of the multimeter in just hit plastic/rubber at the end and not the sides.
 
So I haven't worked much on spark ignition in a while due to owning mostly diesels but why am I seeing 5,000 to 12,000 ohms per foot when I google it? Even the SAE says 12,000 ohms per foot. I have a very slight, intermittent miss at idle and was thinking to check my plug wires.
 
If there is a fault in the wire "INSULATION, it will also happily leave the wire and go to the nearest ground. (You can check that on a dark night.)
This was a test for misfires on Muscle Cars back in the 60s and 70s when we had a misfire that could not be located.
We would wait for night time or drive the vehicle into the garage to briefly test with the windows covered and the door(s) closed.
You can also use a small fluorescent tube light held near the plug wires to detect the misfires.