I'm getting a SYE kit from TW and would like opinions on whether to pull the t case or not. I have a lift and a trans jack. What is your experience and I searched and found nothing.
SYE install without pulling 231 transfer case
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I did one in an apartment complex parking lot way back when. No garage, no trans jack. Just pulled the guts out and layed on my back and got it done.
These days with another vehicle to drive and a garage I'd pull it in a heartbeat.
Not a tough job either way you go about it. The only must is a good set of snap ring pliers. And I can't stress that enough.
OP
MountaineerTom
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I pulled mine recently. It wasn't bad with using a transmission jack. I wasn't ready for the transmission fluid that came out of the back of the trans, so I made a little mess all over my jack and a little bit of the floor.
Some pics and info here of the removal/installation and break down.
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads...wrangler-unlimited.14995/page-20#post-1283539
Get one of these in 9/16 inch. Doesn't have to be expensive, this is one from a Harbor Freight set that my dad bought for me decades ago. It makes removing and installing the upper nuts loose that hold the transfer case to the transmission.
Some pics and info here of the removal/installation and break down.
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads...wrangler-unlimited.14995/page-20#post-1283539
Get one of these in 9/16 inch. Doesn't have to be expensive, this is one from a Harbor Freight set that my dad bought for me decades ago. It makes removing and installing the upper nuts loose that hold the transfer case to the transmission.
It is a bit more work but pulling the case and working on a bench can save some frustration.
Pull the case for sure if you’re doing the sye. Drain the atf inside before the pull and fill up after it’s in and it’s not bad. I can have it pulled in 30 min now. Put a Jack under the trans then the 4 bolts in the middle of the skid that hold the trans to it then drop the skid from the frame rail, unbolt the 4 bigger bolts on the transmission mount then I do drive shafts, disconnect the 4wd connection (cable or linkage from the case lever), unplug the spedo gear connector, 4wd indicator plug above the linkage, and then then the breather hose. Finally the (if I can remember it being 6) nuts on the front side of the tcase that hold it to the trans (you’ll have to use an opened wrench for it so that’s a little slow but access isn’t too bad) then I just sit cross cross (apple sauce) under the jeep where the rear shaft goes and pull it back and into my lap (it’s heavy but nothing a skinny college like me can’t work with so you should be fine but can use floor Jack under it if your worried but I have more problems balancing it than just holding it) (I actually shredded my speedo gears so I need pull my case again this week too)
Pull the case but breaking loose the front output yoke nut is a lot easier with the case mounted up, so do that first, and then torque both output yokes after you put the case back in.
I did mine while still installed on my old TJ. I don't remember it being miserable, but I was much younger then.
There's definitely no need to go through the extra steps of pulling the transfer case off the transmission. In fact the job is easier to do when the front of the transfer case is still bolted to the transmission as it is being firmly held in position while you work on it. I was about to remove my transfer case years ago when mrblaine, who came to my house to help, said nope it was easier to leave it installed. It was certainly easier than I expected with it still bolted to the transmission.
Installed mine without removing the case. If you already have the rig lifted there is plenty of room and it is nice to have the case held in place and not spinning on a work bench. I would only remove it if you are doing a full rebuild.
I’ve installed SYEs both ways. Being 6’3” I found removing the transfer case was easier for me personally so I wasn’t hunched over.
OP
Thanks for the replys, will do it without pulling the tcase and see how it goes.
Going to give that a try this week when I have to swap my Speedo gear on the main shaft as well.
For my money, doing it on the bench means being able to stand up, work in full light, able to change view point as you're fighting with snap rings, plus gravity tends to work in your favor as you're re-assembling. I know before I did it the first time I was scared to pull the t-case and was tempted to do it in-place. But Having done it twice out of the vehicle, I wouldn't hesitate to drop the case every time.
That said, I'll defer to the people who have done it both ways and say leaving it in is easier.
That said, I'll defer to the people who have done it both ways and say leaving it in is easier.
I am about that tall and all we do is use drive on ramps so you can sit upright under the rig and work away quite easily. I've done many, I don't pull them. And as for the recommendation to get snap ring pliers, a great set of lock ring pliers is more of a need. His job doesn't involve much accuracy so there is that.
To that lock ring plier suggestion I'll add that if choosing between several, buy the set that opens the widest. Not all open widely enough for the snap rings on the 231.
In case you don't know, as I didn't until I installed my SYE recently, the snap ring pliers are on the left, the lock ring pliers are on the right:
The tips of the lock ring pliers, for spreading heavy lock rings:
Snap ring pliers won't do the job. Those lock rings are strong.
The $16 lock ring pliers from the local auto parts store worked fine for me.
The tips of the lock ring pliers, for spreading heavy lock rings:
Snap ring pliers won't do the job. Those lock rings are strong.
The $16 lock ring pliers from the local auto parts store worked fine for me.
