LIMP mode issue and P700 and P1776 codes after turning overdrive on

I have re-read my post thrice and read no aggression. 90% of my last post was listing code symptoms and quoting you.

Can you please point out my aggressiveness as I do not see it? In no way, shape or form do I want to appear that way.

Thanks.
 
I have re-read my post thrice and read no aggression. 90% of my last post was listing code symptoms and quoting you.

Can you please point out my aggressiveness as I do not see it? In no way, shape or form do I want to appear that way.

Thanks.
Forget about it. We've had a number of email, text and phone conversations discussing this annoying issue that won't seem to go away and you're always helpful.

And you have suggested wiring in the past, in fact the very first conversation. The problem with wiring is looking at a pristine harness and covering and the thought of stripping all that off, when it seems like the problem is something else. Not a mark on the covering.

Computer, transmission etc. So 2 computers, and some transmission work, not a full rebuild, and the problem persists. As I stated in my last post, if it was wiring why does it not do it all the time, because not once has it tripped the codes in any outing less than an hour.
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: Wranglerfix
Forget about it. We've had a number of email, text and phone conversations discussing this annoying issue that won't seem to go away and you're always helpful.

And you have suggested wiring in the past, in fact the very first conversation. The problem with wiring is looking at a pristine harness and covering and the thought of stripping all that off, when it seems like the problem is something else. Not a mark on the covering.

Computer, transmission etc. So 2 computers, and some transmission work, not a full rebuild, and the problem persists. As I stated in my last post, if it was wiring why does it not do it all the time, because not once has it tripped the codes in any outing less than an hour.
You don’t have to rip your harness apart to test for shorts.
 
You don’t have to rip your harness apart to test for shorts.
Thanks. I guessing you're talking about the wrapped wires running from the TCM/PCM down along the firewall.

How does a person test these for a short without physically taking the wrapping off and inspecting them?

Part of the reason I never believed that a short was the problem was how all this started in the first place and the fact that my issues never happen in a short drive of 5-10 miles, but instead every time its when I'm out for a couple of hours. And not really highway driving but basically 2 lane roads and going 40-60 MPH with some hills.

You wouldn't expect a street driven and clean engine bay with no disruption of the wiring harness to suddenly have a short in a protected wire.

The transmission guy keeps telling me that he thinks its a computer problem even though he could make a lot of money by rebuilding the whole thing and not just changing the solenoid pack which cost me $700. He has just suggested that the new computer will "learn" and solve the issues, although since I've changed it (twice), I've had at least 5-7 different times of it going into limp mode and coding 1775 and 1776. So the "learning" thing doesn't seem to be happening.

He actually has another 2005 customer with the same issues. And I directed that person to Wranglerfix as well. Not sure if he ended up getting a new PCM or not.

But any advice you can give on testing the wiring would be great. Thanks
 
Last edited:
A short is when a wire that is supposed to be isolated from other wires or ground now has continuity to another wire or ground.

Your solenoid pack could be going kapootz when it gets hot. The valve in the valve body could also be binding when it gets hot.


I like Mark and I like his PCM’s. I don’t like how many including you have a 42rle problem and automatically jump to replacing the pcm without any professional troubleshooting being performed.

Troubleshooting the valve body is likely beyond what most on this forum are capable of but a good professional can do it.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Wranglerfix
A short is when a wire that is supposed to be isolated from other wires or ground now has continuity to another wire or ground.

Your solenoid pack could be going kapootz when it gets hot. The valve in the valve body could also be binding when it gets hot.


I like Mark and I like his PCM’s. I don’t like how many including you have a 42rle problem and automatically jump to replacing the pcm without any professional troubleshooting being performed.

Troubleshooting the valve body is likely beyond what most on this forum are capable of but a good professional can do it.
I believe the PCM did fix a couple of engine codes that happened and the hard shift from first to second, but the limp mode stuff it doesn't seem to have cured.

The transmission place did "remove and replace the solenoid pack and remove and replace the valve body" from their invoice which was $712 at the end of July. As I said it's gone into limp mode and 1775 and 1776 between 5 and 7 times since.

But I'm leaning to the "getting hot" issues as being the culprit somehow. The placement of the PCM on the firewall seems like a design failure as well. But it's gone over 100,000 miles that way and no issues before. So I'm kind of inclined to think it's transmission overheating somehow.

I do actually trust the transmission place, the guy is an old hot rodder and still races cars and is very open to trying to cure this issue. I'd be kind of pissed to spend $3000 on a complete rebuild and then it happens again, but I'm getting close to that decision. It sucks to drive this and not be able to trust it.

I'm contemplating going to see him this week and tell him to take the Jeep over the weekend and drive it and let him experience the issues first hand.
 
Last edited:
Thanks. I guessing you're talking about the wrapped wires running from the TCM/PCM down along the firewall.

How does a person test these for a short without physically taking the wrapping off and inspecting them?

Part of the reason I never believed that a short was the problem was how all this started in the first place and the fact that my issues never happen in a short drive of 5-10 miles, but instead every time its when I'm out for a couple of hours. And not really highway driving but basically 2 lane roads and going 40-60 MPH with some hills.

You wouldn't expect a street driven and clean engine bay with no disruption of the wiring harness to suddenly have a short in a protected wire.

The transmission guy keeps telling me that he thinks its a computer problem even though he could make a lot of money by rebuilding the whole thing and not just changing the solenoid pack which cost me $700. He has just suggested that the new computer will "learn" and solve the issues, although since I've changed it (twice), I've had at least 5-7 different times of it going into limp mode and coding 1775 and 1776. So the "learning" thing doesn't seem to be happening.

He actually has another 2005 customer with the same issues. And I directed that person to Wranglerfix as well. Not sure if he ended up getting a new PCM or not.

But any advice you can give on testing the wiring would be great. Thanks
I am in agreement with what everyone has said regarding checking your wiring. The alternative seems to be way more expensive so why not try that first before even considering a full tranny rebuild/replacement?

As far as only happening in the heat, wiring gremlins can manifest themselves in all sorts of weird ways and it's smart to rule it out if all possible and feasible.

My thought process...
I am in the camp that the fundamentals are where problems usually exist. For example, bought my tj off a girl who told me her main bearings had gone on her engine, which she said was confirmed by her mechanic.

I picked up the TJ from the mechanic's shop and spoke to the mechanic who confirmed what she told me. Told me it wasn't worth putting any time into that engine.

The end result was that the engine had a lot of smaller issues, but the true culprit of the jeep not being road worthy was her that she had a broken timing chain spring and leaky power-steering hose that made it look like an oily blood bath in her engine compartment. In this case, the mechanic looked at the oily mess, the noise, and didn't check the basics, and called her jeep dead. Ended up being good for me, but bad for her.

Not saying it can't be a bad tranny, but resist the urge to jump to conclusions without hard data to prove it, or hard data proving simpler things are not it.


Based on what I have read, and what you wrote, data tells me it's probably not the valves UNLESS your shop didn't do what they said they did, you very unlucky and got shity parts, or these are some other things that is making them fail fast.

Since you replaced them based on your receipt, check the wiring or pay someone to check it for you.

As far checking the wiring( never tested the exact circuit you are testing, but have a multitude of others.), is simply look up the wiring diagram, find the ends, IE where the wires originate, and any junctions that have connectors you check and check for continuity between the ends using a multimeter, and for shorts to ground. If this is beyond you, I would pay for that check before I paid for the replacement tranny.
 
I am in agreement with what everyone has said regarding checking your wiring. The alternative seems to be way more expensive so why not try that first before even considering a full tranny rebuild/replacement?

As far as only happening in the heat, wiring gremlins can manifest themselves in all sorts of weird ways and it's smart to rule it out if all possible and feasible.

My thought process...
I am in the camp that the fundamentals are where problems usually exist. For example, bought my tj off a girl who told me her main bearings had gone on her engine, which she said was confirmed by her mechanic.

I picked up the TJ from the mechanic's shop and spoke to the mechanic who confirmed what she told me. Told me it wasn't worth putting any time into that engine.

The end result was that the engine had a lot of smaller issues, but the true culprit of the jeep not being road worthy was her that she had a broken timing chain spring and leaky power-steering hose that made it look like an oily blood bath in her engine compartment. In this case, the mechanic looked at the oily mess, the noise, and didn't check the basics, and called her jeep dead. Ended up being good for me, but bad for her.

Not saying it can't be a bad tranny, but resist the urge to jump to conclusions without hard data to prove it, or hard data proving simpler things are not it.


Based on what I have read, and what you wrote, data tells me it's probably not the valves UNLESS your shop didn't do what they said they did, you very unlucky and got shity parts, or these are some other things that is making them fail fast.

Since you replaced them based on your receipt, check the wiring or pay someone to check it for you.

As far checking the wiring( never tested the exact circuit you are testing, but have a multitude of others.), is simply look up the wiring diagram, find the ends, IE where the wires originate, and any junctions that have connectors you check and check for continuity between the ends using a multimeter, and for shorts to ground. If this is beyond you, I would pay for that check before I paid for the replacement tranny.
Thanks for your insight. Wiring/electrical has always been a freak out for me. I may just have a guy do what you suggest. As I said there is no obvious wear on the wrapping but that doesn't always mean much.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Wranglerfix
I just wanted to check in on this thread that I was involved in and couldn't seem to find a solution to the problem. About a year ago I got the transmission shop that I'd been using to put in a transmission cooler and after all the issues I'd had, the problems went away. And have now for a year. Thanks everyone for the replies.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Jerry Bransford