Steering wheel sits slightly off-center on highway

With the wheel straight ahead what do you get for hub to hub measurement? Front to back on each side

I did my best because I’m the only one home it’s kinda hard to do. But I got 93 inches from the center of the front wheel to the center of the back wheel on the left side and 94 inches on the right. They definitely are not equal.
 
I did my best because I’m the only one home it’s kinda hard to do. But I got 93 inches from the center of the front wheel to the center of the back wheel on the left side and 94 inches on the right. They definitely are not equal.

Yeah thats f'd up. Make sure the arms aren't bound up after adjustment also.especially the top arms. You want the second upper arm bolt to slide in easily or you risk the wimpy top brackets getting uneven pressure and ripping off.
 
I did my best because I’m the only one home it’s kinda hard to do. But I got 93 inches from the center of the front wheel to the center of the back wheel on the left side and 94 inches on the right. They definitely are not equal.
Yeah thats f'd up. Make sure the arms aren't bound up after adjustment also.especially the top arms. You want the second upper arm bolt to slide in easily or you risk the wimpy top brackets getting uneven pressure and ripping off.
I’ll have the shop sets the rear arms equal lengths and half them lengthen my front lower right arm because I know it’s half a turn short compared the left. I will also look into returning the fox stabilizer and if I can do that purchase a falcon stabilizer instead. I assume the falcon is a better design because it’s not going to push my front axle a certain way? I know the falcon is likely overkill but I don’t have a problem spending a few extra hundred dollars for it.
 
I have had a front end alignment done multiple times and it has not fixed my problem. That’s why I don’t think the drag link is the issue.
You're not paying attention!!! You have been told multiple times above that adjusting the drag link does not affect the alignment in any way. ALL ADJUSTING THE DRAG LINK DOES IS CENTER THE STEERING WHEEL!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! It doesn't change or affect the alignment's toe-in, caster, or camber angles.

Oh I almost forgot... I gave up trying to help you. Please ignore the previous paragraph.
 
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You're not paying attention!!! You have been told multiple times above that adjusting the drag link does not affect the alignment in any way. ALL ADJUSTING THE DRAG LINK DOES IS CENTER THE STEERING WHEEL!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! It doesn't change or affect the toe-in, caster, or camber angles.

Oh I almost forgot... I gave up trying to help you. Please ignore the previous paragraph.
Jerry, my steering wheel is straight. Earlier in this discussion I explained the issue incorrectly. My car pulls left on the highway and I compensate by holding the wheel to the right. The steering wheel want to stay straight on its own. That’s my fault for not explaining correctly initially
 
Thrust angle should be within spec in the alignment chart. Using a tape to set axles front to back should get you close to that. Starting with stock length arms and going from there is what i would do.

If your thrust angle is good with your strange arm lengths it makes me wonder if something is up with the frame or where the brackets are welded.
 
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Thrust angle should be within spec in the alignment chart. Using a tape to set axles front to back should get you close to that. Starting with stock length arms and going from there is what i would do.

If your thrust angle is good with your strange arm lengths it makes me wonder if something is up with the frame or where the brackets are welded.
My left rear camber is already slightly out of spec so does that mean there’s a possibility that my left rear toe will be out of spec even if the rear axle is square to the front axle? I think setting the arms equal is the first move and going from there. I looked at the brackets and frame and nothing looks out of the ordinary.
 
My left rear camber is already slightly out of spec so does that mean there’s a possibility that my left rear toe will be out of spec even if the rear axle is square to the front axle? I think setting the arms equal is the first move and going from there. I looked at the brackets and frame and nothing looks out of the ordinary.

Toe and camber are not adjustable on the rear axle, period. If either of those are out of spec you have a bent axle tube.

If your control arm lengths are not equal you would have excessive +toe on one side and equal -toe on the other side. They should be very close if not match.

Camber is not adjustable in any way (off the top of my head I don't know what the min/max from the factory is set to but it should be almost 0°) so "out of spec" means something is BENT!
 
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Toe and camber are not adjustable on the rear axle, period. If either of those are out of spec you have a bent axle tube.

If your control arm lengths are not equal you would have excessive +toe on one side and equal -toe on the other side. They should be very close if not match.

Camber is not adjustable in any way (off the top of my head I don't know what the min/max from the factory is set to but it should be almost 0°) so "out of spec" means something is BENT!

So I should definitely set control arms equal to each other then. It’s safe to assume both left sides of my axles a slightly bent but not enough to replace them.
 
So I should definitely set control arms equal to each other then. It’s safe to assume both left sides of my axles a slightly bent but not enough to replace them.
So far I would say it's not safe to assume anything.
I'm more inclined to agree with @Rickyd , that you need to take some measurements from points on the frame to axle centers to make sure something else isn't bent. A thrust angle alignment simply adjusts the front toe and steering wheel center to match the direction the rear axle is pushing. It will NOT cause a pull in either direction...

There are a few things that can cause a "pull" on a Wrangler:
Tire pressure imbalance, one low tire can cause a pull.

Radial pull, caused by an inconsistent tire casing that causes more drag.. (similar to having a low tire on the front)

Camber, excessive negative on one side will cause a "pull" to the opposite side. Too much positve will pull to the side that is out of spec. If your cross camber is equal there will not be a pull. If negative on one side and positive on the other it will pull to the positive side. If you do have close to equal negative on one side and positive on the other I would question the alignment tech to see if they made certain both tires are at equal air pressure and that the machine has been calibrated recently. Any difference in tire height to the center of the hub, left to right will throw all measurements off...

Excessive Caster differences can also cause a pull but again something would have to be bent on a TJ to cause that.

You describe that it pulls left when you are on the throttle and goes streight when you let off. That describes something loose and moving around when you go from coasting to on the throttle. You need to double check all your control arm and trackbar joints before going any further.
 
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So far I would say it's not safe to assume anything.
I'm more inclined to agree with @Rickyd , that you need to take some measurements from points on the frame to axle centers to make sure something else isn't bent. A thrust angle alignment simply adjusts the front toe and steering wheel center to match the direction the rear axle is pushing. It will NOT cause a pull in either direction...

There are a few things that can cause a "pull" on a Wrangler:
Tire pressure imbalance, one low tire can cause a pull.

Radial pull, caused by an inconsistent tire casing that causes more drag.. (similar to having a low tire on the front)

Camber, excessive negative on one side will cause a "pull" to the opposite side. Too much positve will pull to the side that is out of spec. If your cross camber is equal there will not be a pull. If negative on one side and positive on the other it will pull to the positive side. If you do have close to equal negative on one side and positive on the other I would question the alignment tech to see if they made certain both tires are at equal air pressure and that the machine has been calibrated recently. Any difference in tire height to the center of the hub, left to right will throw all measurements off...

Excessive Caster differences can also cause a pull but again something would have to be bent on a TJ to cause that.

You describe that it pulls left when you are on the throttle and goes streight when you let off. That describes something loose and moving around when you go from coasting to on the throttle. You need to double check all your control arm and trackbar joints before going any further.

I am convinced the axles are bent because both left cambers are slightly out of spec. My ball joints have no play in them. The first step should probably to set the rear control arms to equal lengths? can ear toe can be out of spec due to a bent axle as well?
 
I am convinced the axles are bent because both left cambers are slightly out of spec. My ball joints have no play in them. The first step should probably to set the rear control arms to equal lengths? can ear toe can be out of spec due to a bent axle as well?

Rear toe *
 
I am convinced the axles are bent because both left cambers are slightly out of spec. My ball joints have no play in them. The first step should probably to set the rear control arms to equal lengths? can ear toe can be out of spec due to a bent axle as well?

Do you have a sheet showing the alignment specs that you can take a picture of and post here?
 
Do you have a sheet showing the alignment specs that you can take a picture of and post here?
I was thinking adding a .5 camber shim to the front left axle to bring it back into spec.what do you think? I know it say thrust angle is good but the axle is clearly not straight because my control arms are different lengths. I know Rear camber is not adjustable but it’s barely out of spec and .4 difference from the other side
IMG_0477.jpeg
 
So far I would say it's not safe to assume anything.
I'm more inclined to agree with @Rickyd , that you need to take some measurements from points on the frame to axle centers to make sure something else isn't bent. A thrust angle alignment simply adjusts the front toe and steering wheel center to match the direction the rear axle is pushing. It will NOT cause a pull in either direction...

There are a few things that can cause a "pull" on a Wrangler:
Tire pressure imbalance, one low tire can cause a pull.

Radial pull, caused by an inconsistent tire casing that causes more drag.. (similar to having a low tire on the front)

Camber, excessive negative on one side will cause a "pull" to the opposite side. Too much positve will pull to the side that is out of spec. If your cross camber is equal there will not be a pull. If negative on one side and positive on the other it will pull to the positive side. If you do have close to equal negative on one side and positive on the other I would question the alignment tech to see if they made certain both tires are at equal air pressure and that the machine has been calibrated recently. Any difference in tire height to the center of the hub, left to right will throw all measurements off...

Excessive Caster differences can also cause a pull but again something would have to be bent on a TJ to cause that.

You describe that it pulls left when you are on the throttle and goes streight when you let off. That describes something loose and moving around when you go from coasting to on the throttle. You need to double check all your control arm and trackbar joints before going any further.
Backwards. A bad camber means something is bent, a bad caster angle is adjustable with adjustable length control arms.
 
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Backwards. A bad camber means something is bent, a bad caster angle is adjustable with adjustable length control arms.
Your reading comprehension must be going to shit Jerry...

Where did you see me say that camber was adjustable and caster isn't? I said, "Excessive Caster differences can also cause a pull but again something would have to be bent on a TJ to cause that."
 
I was thinking adding a .5 camber shim to the front left axle to bring it back into spec.what do you think? I know it say thrust angle is good but the axle is clearly not straight because my control arms are different lengths. I know Rear camber is not adjustable but it’s barely out of spec and .4 difference from the other side
View attachment 428216

My first question is how did the rear readings for total toe and camber change between initial and final...
Second the negative camber on the left front got worse after he aligned it???
I think I would find a different shop to pull the measurements on your Jeep...

As for your pull... If the specs on the print out are accurate you would have more of a tendency to pull right than left.
So I would say your front alignment angles are not the issue...

Also, where are you finding "shims" to adjust your camber on the front? The only way that I am aware of to adjust camber on a TJ is with offset ball joints, which can also be used to correct caster to a certain degree...

Like I said before in post #52,

"You describe that it pulls left when you are on the throttle and goes streight when you let off. That describes something loose and moving around when you go from coasting to on the throttle. You need to double check all your control arm and trackbar joints before going any further."
 
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My first question is how did the rear readings for total toe and camber change between initial and final...
Second the negative camber on the left front got worse after he aligned it???
I think I would find a different shop to pull the measurements on your Jeep...

As for your pull... If the specs on the print out are accurate you would have more of a tendency to pull right than left.
So I would say your front alignment angles are not the issue...

Also, where are you finding "shims" to adjust your camber on the front? The only way that I am aware of to adjust camber on a TJ is with offset ball joints, which can also be used to correct caster to a certain degree...

Like I said before in post #52,

"You describe that it pulls left when you are on the throttle and goes streight when you let off. That describes something loose and moving around when you go from coasting to on the throttle. You need to double check all your control arm and trackbar joints before going any further."

Those changes are minuscule from initial to final. The vehicle could be sitting differently on the alignment rack from checking the caster.
I
 
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