SYE or not?

Guys,

Just bought my first TJ a few weeks ago, and have spending all weekend devouring the contents of this forum, I can say without a doubt I've learned a lot! But I have a few questions that I really can find good answers on or if I have, there is conflicting info.

Little back story, I bought an 01 TJ Unlimited, that seems to have a 3-4" crappy lift kit install by the PO - springs and shocks - everything else seems to be pretty stock. I plan on redoing the lift, and going with a 3" suspension lift and a 1" body lift, that will sit on 33" tires. After reading numerous threads on what else you need to modify when going with a lift like this I started to get into the weeds on SYE and pinion angle. The pinion angle right now is about a difference of 8 degrees!!!! drive shaft sits at 18 ish, and the rear axle sits around 10. I pretty confident the drive shaft is not a DC double cardon, but I'm unsure as if an SYE has been installed. Can someone verify that for me, please?

Also, with a 3" lift, SYE & DC double cardon drive shaft installed, do I go with adjustable upper and lower rear control arms are just uppers? I read some people go one way some people go the other. Also, also, what is an acceptable tolerance for the difference in the angle between the drive shaft and the axel? I heard 0 is ideal, and also 1-3 is best?? I want to do it right, but am also on a little bit of a budget.

Thank you,

Reggie

machoheadgames said:

You do not have an SYE. Normal stock driveshaft and transfer case tail housing.

If you swap to SYE, you want the pinion angle to be a degree or two below the angle of the double cardan driveshaft.

I would go with a 4” suspension lift for 33’s unless I just really needed the benefits of the body lift. I would rather a 4” suspension than a 3”.

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Appreciate the response.

cpwolf said:

Yep, no SYE.

It would go for 4” suspension and SYE as well.

I went 4” suspension, and to really get the wheels centered in well, and adjust the uppers to get the pinion just under the angle of putting it right at the output.

You’ll need a new Rear drive shaft as well, so I got the Super Short JB Conversions SYE, and that let me get a touch more distance

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Oof, you guys are making me rethink what I go with now. I figured a body lift seems like like great bang for you buck, and a 3.5" short arm lift from Metalcloak was a great start. I was under the impression if I went with a 4" lift, i would have to switch to a long arm configuration?

JAYNE said:

A body lift is a great bang for your buck! If you don’t mind the change in aesthetics. Plus it opens up other opportunities to spend money on nonsense later down the road! Like a tummy tuck! And mid arm!

Make sure you get a solid puck body lift either from savvy or Black Magic Brakes. The 1.25” from BMB is awesome. You’ll regret getting anything like the squishy jks ones.

As for your driveline angles, you’ve got an unlimited which will be more forgiving, buuuut it doesn’t hurt to have adjustables to spook off any driveline vibes.

An sye is for sure a good idea along with a ton of other stuff… adjustable trackbars, upgraded steering, new dc drive shaft, extended sway bar links, a proper regear for 33” tires….

Ooh and you don’t need a long arm kit period. Stick with the short arms or if you want to start spending more money get a mid arm kit. That long arm won’t ride any better vs the short arm. Spend that money on high quality tuned shocks.

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Awesome info, I planned on adding the Savvy lift, with a 1" MML, and then getting into the SYE & drive shaft, but maybe with a MML lift and adjustable rear control arms, I might be able to negate that to down the road?

TheBoogieman said:

You might have a crappy lift kit, but you don't have an 01' Unlimited.

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oops I meant Sport!

TheBoogieman said:

Go with the 3" suspension lift and a BL. Long arm configurations are only useful when playing basketball.
p.s. I run a 4.25" combo lift on most of my Jeeps. I use a MML to avoid vibes (no SYE).

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This is what I planned on running, maybe something from Metalcloat if I can bite that kick in the pants to my bank account. What 3" suspension lift do you run?

tnjeepguy said:

https://fcacommunity.force.com/RAM/s/equipment-listing

Enter your VIN to see what all you got !! handy D

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Thank you! Love how helpful this community is

Jerry Bransford said:

I'd rather beat my head hourly with a ballpeen hammer than run a MC suspension lift. Their control arms are crap and their Duraflex bushing inside the flex joint is nothing but rubber which doesn't hold up long. Not to mention that in my personal opinion, they are the masters of marketing, too bad their quality and designs don't live up to their masterful hype.

And X2 to the 3" suspension lift plus 1" to 1.25" body lift for 33's. That gives a slightly lower center-of-gravity than a 4" suspension lift does plus you don't have to run a SYE and DC driveshaft with a 3" lift if your budget is limited. For a very basic combination kit that includes a 3" suspension plus 1.25" take a look at https://zoneoffroad.com/products/425-in-combo-lift-kit-1997-2006-jeep-wrangler-tj

For a much better quality 3" suspension lift you can separately add a 1" to 1.25" body lift to it'd be real hard to beat this one from Savvy Offroad. https://savvyoffroad.com/product/ce-9801sc1/ whose control arms and flex joints (Johnny Joints) are unsurpassed.

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Thanks for the reply, Jerry, seems like the MC is out and the Savvy is in, I've always been of the mind quality over quantity. I'm thinking I just build the suspension over time as fund become available. Starting with BL, MML, Springs & (Rancho) Shocks, track bar and control arms? Missing anything..

Murf926 said:

lol, but how do you REALLY feel about Metalcloak, Jerry?

I really wish I had found this forum BEFORE I bought MC control arms and track bars. I'm only just starting my 2nd season of off roading with them, but so far my MC stuff has held up fine. I do only currently have about 2.5" of suspension lift (+ 1" body), so I don't have as much travel as I'll have when I complete my swap to 4" later this year, so that may be a factor in how long the bushings last. When they crap out, I'll almost definitely bite the bullet and go with some johnny joint arms and track bars. The alternative would be spending $250 or so on replacement bushings. If I actually get 4 or 5 seasons out of the original set, that could be a feasible option, but I think I'd rather have the arms I should have bought in the first place...live and learn...I guess.

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The website really sold me! Guess too much money goes into the marketing department than the R&D..