Nashville TJ's Build - Continued

Next up is building new front lower control arms. First step, pull out my dry metal saw and cut to length - 29" in my case.

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If you have never used one of these things, it cuts like a dream. It went through this stuff like butter - and left a perfectly straight and square edge.

That cut left me with these two 7" pieces. At about $13.80 an inch that's about $97 - each...

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Anyone need to make a set of really short control arms? 😃

Using the roller setup, I beveled the ends of each arm to prep for welding. This took a hell of a lot longer than cutting them to length.

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Then with the help of a big mallet, I inserted the threaded bungs - one left hand and one right hand - into each arm.

Jeep - Moab Repair 9 - 5-10-2023 (9).JPG


And just like that, they are starting to look like control arms.
 
To make the welds, I set up this rig to position the welder. A few zip ties and the base of a jack stand held in position with magnets, and I was able to perfectly position the torch for the weld. Not shown in the picture is a plate welded to the table at the other end to properly position the arm under the gun.

Jeep - Moab Repair 9 - 5-10-2023 (23).JPG


The last time I welded a set of control arms I built this foot switch the run the welder. This way I can rotate the arm under the torch at a consistent speed using both hands and energize the welder with my foot. It works pretty well.

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And here is the result.

Jeep - Moab Repair 9 - 5-10-2023 (26).JPG
 
To make the welds, I set up this rig to position the welder. A few zip ties and the base of a jack stand held in position with magnets, and I was able to perfectly position the torch for the weld. Not shown in the picture is a plate welded to the table at the other end to properly position the arm under the gun.

View attachment 428207

The last time I welded a set of control arms I built this foot switch the run the welder. This way I can rotate the arm under the torch at a consistent speed using both hands and energize the welder with my foot. It works pretty well.

View attachment 428208

And here is the result.

View attachment 428209

That is how you set up a welder for driveshafts you just have to fixture the shaft differently.
 
This morning I finished up the welding on the control arms. The inserts are fairly thin at the threads, so you have to be careful how much heat you throw at the thing. So rather than doing one fat hot weld and risk destroying the threads, I did three smaller welds. I laid down two more beads on either side of the root weld, and I'm happy with it. A little more spatter this time. I'll hit it with the flap disk to smooth it all out and call it good.

Jeep - Moab Repair 9 - 5-10-2023 (5)-1.jpg
 
This morning I finished up the welding on the control arms. The inserts are fairly thin at the threads, so you have to be careful how much heat you throw at the thing. So rather than doing one fat hot weld and risk destroying the threads, I did three smaller welds. I laid down two more beads on either side of the root weld, and I'm happy with it. A little more spatter this time. I'll hit it with the flap disk to smooth it all out and call it good.

View attachment 428531

I'm getting a new appreciation for how much science and art collide when welding. I'm okay with one of those, but can't balance both!
 
This morning I finished up the welding on the control arms. The inserts are fairly thin at the threads, so you have to be careful how much heat you throw at the thing. So rather than doing one fat hot weld and risk destroying the threads, I did three smaller welds. I laid down two more beads on either side of the root weld, and I'm happy with it. A little more spatter this time. I'll hit it with the flap disk to smooth it all out and call it good.

View attachment 428531

I have seen people use a sacrificial rod end to supposedly help prevent thread distortion. But don’t know if it actually works.
 
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I have seen people use a sacrificial rod end to supposedly help prevent thread distortion. But don’t know if it actually works.

Although I've never tried that, my gut tells me if you threw enough heat at it to distort the threads with a rod end in there, you may never get the rod end out. :unsure:
 
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I'm getting a new appreciation for how much science and art collide when welding. I'm okay with one of those, but can't balance both!

Or in my case, I tend to lean toward brute force... ;)

A few years ago, I spent like a gazillion dollars on these 1.25" x 12 right and left hand taps.

IMG_5152.jpg


Over the years I've made a bunch of control arms, and in every case at least a few of the ends have distorted enough that you can't get a rod end in there. So as a matter of course I always run a tap through.


IMG_5153.jpg


In this case, two took a little bit of effort, and two took a little more effort. But all cleaned up nicely.
 
Well, I may be a hack welder - but I am a world class grinder :cool:. Here they are all smoothed out and ready for paint.

Jeep - Moab Repair 9 - 5-10-2023 (13).JPG


Self-etching primer first....

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...and then several coats of semi-gloss black.

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And with that, the arms are done and ready for install.
 
Or in my case, I tend to lean toward brute force... ;)

A few years ago, I spent like a gazillion dollars on these 1.25" x 12 right and left hand taps.

View attachment 428704

Over the years I've made a bunch of control arms, and in every case at least a few of the ends have distorted enough that you can't get a rod end in there. So as a matter of course I always run a tap through.


View attachment 428705

In this case, two took a little bit of effort, and two took a little more effort. But all cleaned up nicely.

Taps that big are $$. I have some 1.0 - 14 RH and LH taps to for chasing threads in my RockJock control arms. Its painful to see them sitting in the toolbox drawer, but when you need em...they are priceless.
 
My grandson LJ is up from Tallahassee for a visit. First thing he asks is can he drive Pop-Pop’s Jeep.

View attachment 428886

Second thing he asks is why Pop-Pop’s front lower control arm is bent…

Can't blame the kid. He's looking out for his inheritance. Making sure papa is treating it right.
 
My grandson LJ is up from Tallahassee for a visit. First thing he asks is can he drive Pop-Pop’s Jeep.

View attachment 428886

Second thing he asks is why Pop-Pop’s front lower control arm is bent…

LJ looks right at home in the front seat. I see a future there!

Everything looks great by the way. Good recovery. Lots of work, but I’m sure you enjoyed giving your attention to detail.
 
With a little help from LJ, I swapped in the new control arms this afternoon. The driver's side was almost straight...

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The passenger side, not so much....

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Swapped over the JJ's...

Jeep - Moab Repair 9 - 5-10-2023 (16).JPG


...and one step closer to full Moab recovery. :oops:

Jeep - Moab Repair 9 - 5-10-2023 (31).JPG
 
Another result of the Moab Flop is that I've got a bit of a nasty gangsta body lean toward the passenger side.

Jeep - Moab Repair 9 - 5-10-2023 (1).jpg


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Thinking that it was just tweaked a bit, I loosened all the body mounts and lifted the body a bit on each side hoping it would settle back straight.

Jeep - WIndows 9 - 5-10-2023 (3).jpg


(As you can see, I used a couple of high-lift jacks - so I am currently posting from the hereafter...🙂)

Although it improved a little - it's still leaning, and I am a bit perplexed. Any idea what I'm missing? My rubber body mounts are original - so 19 years old. Maybe I smooshed the mounts on the right side beyond their ability to come back into shape? I should have paid more attention when I had them loose, but I did not - I guess I need to get under there again. While it was loose I did look at all the frame mounts, the torque boxes and other body mounts, but I did not see anything glaring.

Any suggestions?
 
Frustrated by the lean, I needed to do something I could successfully fix. A sunny, warm day in Nashville today so I heated up the new top and got it installed.

Jeep - WIndows 9 - 5-10-2023 (4).jpg


Looking good and tight.

Jeep - WIndows 9 - 5-10-2023 (6).jpg


That was a costly error in judgement. The next time I flop, I'll be more careful about where we attach the strap to the cage...:rolleyes:
 
And for another quick success, I installed the hood pin posts into the new grille. The nuts I used previously had rusted just a bit, especially the hidden nuts, so I ordered some stainless nuts from McMaster-Carr. MC has a distribution center just a few miles from me, so usually when I order from them, I receive the stuff the next day.

Jeep - WIndows 9 - 5-10-2023 (7).jpg


Jeep - WIndows 9 - 5-10-2023 (5).jpg


So other than the lean, everything damaged in the flop is now fixed. Not too bad of a journey.
 
Another result of the Moab Flop is that I've got a bit of a nasty gangsta body lean toward the passenger side.

View attachment 429187

View attachment 429188

Thinking that it was just tweaked a bit, I loosened all the body mounts and lifted the body a bit on each side hoping it would settle back straight.

View attachment 429216

(As you can see, I used a couple of high-lift jacks - so I am currently posting from the hereafter...🙂)

Although it improved a little - it's still leaning, and I am a bit perplexed. Any idea what I'm missing? My rubber body mounts are original - so 19 years old. Maybe I smooshed the mounts on the right side beyond their ability to come back into shape? I should have paid more attention when I had them loose, but I did not - I guess I need to get under there again. While it was loose I did look at all the frame mounts, the torque boxes and other body mounts, but I did not see anything glaring.

Any suggestions?

What are your coilovers measuring out at? Wheel camber all good?(wheel bearings loose?)
 
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