Wildman's TJ is getting a face lift

I don't remember the EVAP lines having clips on the rubber lines. Admittedly, it's been a WHILE since I tore all that apart. I'll have to see if I can find these lines.

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Also this all might have been changed when the engine swap was done too.
 
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Looking at this picture in the parts manual it looks like the end with all the bends go at the engine end.

View attachment 429977

I was going to quit for the day but I might go out and try to get this routed still today. And I've got to see if I can find the rubber end that is supposed to go to the EVAP canister.

K my phone is charged let me have a look
 
Looking at this picture in the parts manual it looks like the end with all the bends go at the engine end.

View attachment 429977

I was going to quit for the day but I might go out and try to get this routed still today. And I've got to see if I can find the rubber end that is supposed to go to the EVAP canister.

Going off of memory, from when I had to drop the fuel tank in the 2000 3 times in 1 winter, yes this is the fuel tank end of the hard line...
1685921356614.png
 

Yep that is what I needed and Thank You for the pictures.

Going off of memory, from when I had to drop the fuel tank in the 2000 3 times in 1 winter, yes this is the fuel tank end of the hard line...
View attachment 429994

I had them it backwards.

Hmm.. someone could use a lil brake fluid

You're right there.

@Wildman if you need better pics of any areas lmk now that I have an idea of what we're looking at here

Thank You again. I think I've got what I need now. Since NOTHING in my frame is even close to stock I know I'll have to do some massaging of the line but I'd rather have the steel line from the rear to the front instead of a rubber line that I'd need to wrap to protect it.

I've still got a TON of LITTLE shit to do but I'm getting closer.
 
Yep that is what I needed and Thank You for the pictures.



I had them it backwards.



You're right there.



Thank You again. I think I've got what I need now. Since NOTHING in my frame is even close to stock I know I'll have to do some massaging of the line but I'd rather have the steel line from the rear to the front instead of a rubber line that I'd need to wrap to protect it.

I've still got a TON of LITTLE shit to do but I'm getting closer.

Happy to help. Look how much room there is on a stock motor! 😂

20% that takes 80% of the time or whatever. Although you've been knocking out all the small details like this for a while now too...
 
Happy to help. Look how much room there is on a stock motor! 😂

You should have seen how much room there was with the 4 popper.... I don't have any engine bay pictures.

20% that takes 80% of the time or whatever. Although you've been knocking out all the small details like this for a while now too...

Yes it always does seem to be that way.
 
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Thanks to everyone's help & the pictures that @lBasket posted I got the EVAP line installed. So next I can start on all the air lines tomorrow.

So I fished the line along side the body mounts and then figured out how I wanted the line to sit on the engines end.

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Then on the fuel tank end I had to route the line around the fuel filter.

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I straightened the line as it ran along the frame some since I didn't have certain bumps to go around.

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IT's not totally flat but it sits in there OK and will work.

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I'm not really sure what happened to the stock rubber line that is suppose to run from the EVAP canister to the metal line but I figured something out that would work.


20230604_212009.jpg



I'd installed this bracket for the steering but ended up not using it so it makes a nice spot to route the metal line thru. I slid the rubber hose on a long ways but will add some spring clamps too.

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Knock one more thing off the list of thins to get done.
 
Found a member on Dirtbag Mafia (FB Group) that makes & sells a hub wrench.

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Nice piece machined out of aluminum & knurled. $60 shipped.

https://www.facebook.com/groups/342770920328709/user/100000108347440


I should add that he'll machine them for any type of locking hubs that you have.

I’m still making these hub tools. If you have Yukon hubs or really any locking hub that sticks and is hard to turn by hand; let me know if you want one.
It’s 6061 1 3/4 aluminum turned down barely for a good finish and a knurl added for grip. I then mill a slot into them to fit over the slot on the locking hub.
It’s not a business or anything more than a hobby for me. Just something to help pay for tools to buy more tools and car parts lol.
I’m doing 60 shipped for now
EDIT: I’ve had some ask for a way to use a wrench or ratchet. I’ll add a wrench flat in the end for a 3/4 in wrench for 80 shipped.

Some pictures of the tool and my rig
 
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Started routing air lines. I figured I'd do the easiest first. I ran all the vent lines to the ARB breather on the firewall.

Rear axle

20230608_143631.jpg


T-case

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Front axle

20230608_143707.jpg


And then the breather on the firewall.

20230608_143936.jpg


20230608_144037.jpg


Next is the fun stuff. All the air lines for the air springs for the AiRock.
 
Started routing air lines. I figured I'd do the easiest first. I ran all the vent lines to the ARB breather on the firewall.

Rear axle

View attachment 431005

T-case

View attachment 431006

Front axle

View attachment 431007

And then the breather on the firewall.

View attachment 431008

View attachment 431009

Next is the fun stuff. All the air lines for the air springs for the AiRock.

Looking good! You have a York, right? Does it just cycle on/off when necessary automatically?
 
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I got the ARB air lines ran to the axles. I don't have a push lock fitting on the front axle so I've still got to get that line hooked up.
Rear axle it hooked up. I did move the line from over the upper control arm to under the control arm. I've still got to mount the solenoids on the inner fenders but the lines are routed.

20230608_153035.jpg



This is the ARB tester I'd built to check both lockers out while I was working on the axles. Since they had sat so long I wanted to check the seals and make sure they didn't leak.

20230608_144406.jpg


I got one air line ran to the passenger side air spring and then had to stop for the day. Also the new brake flex lines that I'd ordered from Amazon to replace the incorrect ones that they'd sent were supposed to be here either today or tomorrow but now won't arrive until Saturday.

Looking good! You have a York, right? Does it just cycle on/off when necessary automatically?

Yes I have a York, passenger side of the engine. It is a the new ORO York that is supposed to be made for use as a compressor. Per Off Road Only's recommendations it's the best option for the AiRock due to the volume of air needed. I've still got to figure out where I'm going to mount my air tank. A minimum of a 1 gallon tank is needed for the AiRock. I'm guessing I might end up having to mount the tank inside the rear of the Jeep since the spot I used to have it mounted is now taken up by the midarm.

20230206_160229.jpg


I'm all out of spare York compressors now too. I gave one to @kiwi & the other one I just gave to @reddvltj. It was my old one that I'd overheated in Moab in 2007 but had been rebuilt and I'd ran it for 4 years.
 
Looking awesome Rick! You are getting closer and closer to that finish line my friend. Keep it up brother!!

Thanks brother. All this little stuff just seems to eat up a LOT more time than I think it will. I'm happy that I'm finally getting to this point but at the same time dreading all the work and time it's going to take to get the interior finished. I've got a TON of stuff to get hooked up and then wires routed to the lights and other things.

And then when I go to start hooking up all these air lines I can't find my cutter for the air hoses. And I've got TWO of the damn things.
 
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I got the ARB air lines ran to the axles. I don't have a push lock fitting on the front axle so I've still got to get that line hooked up.
Rear axle it hooked up. I did move the line from over the upper control arm to under the control arm. I've still got to mount the solenoids on the inner fenders but the lines are routed.

View attachment 431036


This is the ARB tester I'd built to check both lockers out while I was working on the axles. Since they had sat so long I wanted to check the seals and make sure they didn't leak.

View attachment 431035

I got one air line ran to the passenger side air spring and then had to stop for the day. Also the new brake flex lines that I'd ordered from Amazon to replace the incorrect ones that they'd sent were supposed to be here either today or tomorrow but now won't arrive until Saturday.



Yes I have a York, passenger side of the engine. It is a the new ORO York that is supposed to be made for use as a compressor. Per Off Road Only's recommendations it's the best option for the AiRock due to the volume of air needed. I've still got to figure out where I'm going to mount my air tank. A minimum of a 1 gallon tank is needed for the AiRock. I'm guessing I might end up having to mount the tank inside the rear of the Jeep since the spot I used to have it mounted is now taken up by the midarm.

View attachment 431040

I'm all out of spare York compressors now too. I gave one to @kiwi & the other one I just gave to @reddvltj. It was my old one that I'd overheated in Moab in 2007 but had been rebuilt and I'd ran it for 4 years.

Ah okay, yeah makes a lot of sense to have a tank with that many things running on air. The engine bay pic is cool, lots of good stuff going on in there lol
 

Check with @kiwi since he found the serpentine pulley for under $100 I think.

Ah okay, yeah makes a lot of sense to have a tank with that many things running on air. The engine bay pic is cool, lots of good stuff going on in there lol

Yes you have to have some additional air supply for the air springs. If I end up mounting it inside the tub I'll most likely get a 3-5 gallon tank for running air tools.