Jeep Wrangler TJ Full Electric Conversions

Trail_Krawler & Trail_Willys

Irun said:
Sounds like you're overly thinking this. With whatever moderate engine you install, a HP 44 would be a good balance between strength and durability. At 2200 pounds and 31 inch tires, how could it not hold up. Also, you don't seem like the type to follow the herd!
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Lol, I've always been an odd one. Remember the 3 link rear TJ?

But you're probably right. Just overthinking
 
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kmas0n said:
Lol, I've always been an odd one. Remember the 3 link rear TJ?

But you're probably right. Just overthinking
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I look at it this way, many of us here switch to a HP30 and run 35 inch tires with success. The Jk 44 has an 8.8, ring gear, which is substantially stronger.
 
kmas0n said:
More the research, t thanks for the bread crumbs
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I always enjoy helping others spend money...

I had plans to use the Jana54 in my HP44 if I started breaking gears... Was going to try his Jana76 kit in my CRD60 rear but the housing isn't large enough for the Dana 70 gears. I had to clearance it just to use the Super60 gears.
 
kmas0n said:
I have actually, with the extremely short driveshaft, I have to balance length of driveshaft vs angle. Check out this little chart.

View attachment 703477

A ford 9" is about 3/4" shorter from ujoint to axle centerline... which is awesome. but the pinion is 1" lower compared to axle center line. I love the longer driveshaft, but worried that extra inch will eat into my available travel. I'm not smart enough to figure out if its better or worse. I've always wanted to build a 9"
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What is the underside profile of a 9" vs a Dana 44? Getting hung up on a 1000hp capable axle seems like it could be a situation where you wonder if the axle fits the application.

You plan on a v6 or a tdi right? I don't think a 9" would be the right choice here.
 
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Rickyd said:
What is the underside profile of a 9" vs a Dana 44? Getting hung up on a 1000hp capable axle seems like it could be a situation where you wonder if the axle fits the application.

You plan on a v6 or a tdi right? I don't think a 9" would be the right choice here.
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I Don't know about the underside profile. Something I didn't think to consider.

I enjoy discussions like this, I know very little about axles, but I'm learning quick.
 
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kmas0n said:
I Don't know about the underside profile. Something I didn't think to consider.

I enjoy discussions like this, I know very little about axles, but I'm learning quick.
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What AI says... I know there are charts out there too...

On 31-inch tires, a standard Dana 44 provides roughly 10.0 to 10.5 inches of ground clearance under the differential, giving it about 0.5 to 1 inch more effective clearance than a Ford 9-inch axle due to the Ford's lower pinion and larger, rounder center chunk profile
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Wildman said:
Years ago one of the 4WD rags did HP44's in a CJ or TJ but they were running 35" tires and a 4.0 if I remember correctly. They ended up breaking the gears in the rear.
But I agree with you that with the weight of you rig plus the HP of your engine I don't see it as an issue...
And I've known a few guys local who run HP44's in the rear of their Jeeps too. I hadn't thought about the JKR I was thinking more about a Ford HP44..
Also if you're really worried about it breaking you do a Jana54 which uses a D50 R&P https://www.jantz4x4.com/jantz.php?p=detail&pro=jana_54 which is supposed to be about 40% stronger than HP44 gears.
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Its a cool idea @kmas0n and as @Irun said, you often seem willing to take the road less traveled which I respect. But, it will be a fair bit of work and I don’t expect a donor HP44 will come cheap (unless I missed that you already have one?). Since its durability is fairly unproven and since you have that Chevy 4.3 to go in it, I would probably stick with a LP 44 in your shoes, even with 31s.
 
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Woodrow said:
Its a cool idea @kmas0n and as @Irun said, you often seem willing to take the road less traveled which I respect. But, it will be a fair bit of work and I don’t expect a donor HP44 will come cheap (unless I missed that you already have one?). Since its durability is fairly unproven and since you have that Chevy 4.3 to go in it, I would probably stick with a LP 44 in your shoes, even with 31s.
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And we come full circle. Lp Dana 44. Cut, narrow, set 20 bearing cups, custom semi float shafts. It seems like the path of least resistance. It won't be the best axle ever, but it will be nearly unbreakable, reasonable cost, and reasonable levels of fabrication.
 
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What will be the ultimate deciding factor will likely be what pops up on marketplace for super cheap first.
New spider gears will be coming this week and I'll just baby it till something comes my way.
 
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kmas0n said:
And we come full circle. Lp Dana 44. Cut, narrow, set 20 bearing cups, custom semi float shafts. It seems like the path of least resistance. It won't be the best axle ever, but it will be nearly unbreakable, reasonable cost, and reasonable levels of fabrication.
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I tried to use a Ford HP Dana 44 housing in my 3B and gave up on the idea. It would have needed at least 2" more lift to clear the front driveshaft and was already too high (about 6" overall lift). Ended up using a low pinion Ford Dana 44 HD housing (1/2" wall tubes) narrowed to standard wide track width. Reid knuckles, Dutchman shafts, and an ARB. That Willys is on 33's and will likely stay on those as anything larger is going to be major butt surgery which I'm unwilling to do.
 
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kmas0n said:
What will be the ultimate deciding factor will likely be what pops up on marketplace for super cheap first.
New spider gears will be coming this week and I'll just baby it till something comes my way.
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OK. Here is an idea that came to me after my post last nite (and I don’t know if its possible or reasonable): How about a Dana 35 converted to full float? Dirt cheap to get a housing. Better ground clearance than a 44. Plenty strong for a 4.3. Slightly lighter. I just don’t know about the specifics of getting the axles made.
 
This thought had crossed my mind too. If a super 35 can wheel hard with 35's, it should be plenty
 
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Woodrow said:
I just don’t know about the specifics of getting the axles made.
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Dutchman or Moser will pretty much make anything you want. That said, IMO, a Dana 35 is a really poor choice for a swap axle. Sort of similar to folks spending a lot of money trying to keep D25/D27's alive when there is a bolt-in Dana 30 option.
 
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duffer said:
Dutchman or Moser will pretty much make anything you want. That said, IMO, a Dana 35 is a really poor choice for a swap axle. Sort of similar to folks spending a lot of money trying to keep D25/D27's alive when there is a bolt-in Dana 30 option.
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In general, I agree. However, in this scenario (1/2 the weight of a built TJ and on 31” tires) it makes sense to me IF you delete the one significant weakness, the c-clip, by converting to full float. The lighter weight and smaller size of the center section are actually advantages and plenty strong for the application.
 
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Hands down the prettiest place anyone has ever changed a Drag link on a 2023 Jeep Rubicon.

PXL_20260808_213907223.webp
 
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I tried doing a search for that 4WD rag article on the HP44 rear.. No luck but my google-fu kind of sucks.....
Everything I did find did not recommend using a HP44 in the rear... So other than bumping up to a HP60 maybe a HP axle isn't a good choice? And a HP60 for your situation IMO would just be overkill....
There are some threads where people had machined down spindles to fit into stock housings which then became a DIY full floater....
 
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