Manual engine to auto transmission bushing / bearing

Yes, you need a sleeve there. Do not just remove the manual pilot bearing and leave the crank empty.

The part is called the crankshaft pilot sleeve, torque-converter pilot sleeve, or crankshaft adapter sleeve. It centers the nose/pilot of the 42RLE torque converter in the rear of the crankshaft. The 42RLE service procedure specifically relies on the converter hub being seated in the crank, and Chrysler documentation warns that missing the sleeve can cause powertrain vibration.

For your 2002 4.0 manual engine to 2006 TJ 4.0 with 42RLE, the numbers to know are:

• Original 2003–2006 TJ Mopar number: 4736204AA — listed specifically for the 2003–2006 4.0 Wrangler, but discontinued.
• Replacement/alternate: 4736483AA / 04736483AA — this is the one I'd look for. It is a 42RLE crankshaft pilot sleeve, and it has been physically verified as fitting the 4.0/42RLE manual-engine-to-automatic conversion.

Pull the entire manual-transmission pilot bearing/pilot sleeve assembly out of the rear of the 2002 crank.

Then install:

Mopar 4736483AA / 04736483AA
Crankshaft Pilot Sleeve (42RLE)

The 42RLE torque-converter pilot then fits inside that sleeve.

Don't put the 42RLE against the bare crank bore. The converter pilot is substantially smaller than the bare crank register, so without the sleeve it can move off-center. Transmission-industry documentation gives approximately a 1.324" converter pilot and 1.334" sleeve ID, illustrating how closely the sleeve locates it.

Before buying one​

Since you still have the 2006 engine, check the back of its crank first. The original 4736204AA sleeve should be in there. Also inspect the torque-converter pilot because occasionally the sleeve comes out of the crank and stays stuck on the converter nose. If you can save that original sleeve, that's your best solution.

If you need to buy one, search for 4736483AA rather than the discontinued 4736204AA.

If you can't find one reasonably priced, don't pay $300+ yet. A machine shop can make one, or you can recover the sleeve from the old 2006 engine. The original 4736204AA is the piece I'd try hardest to save.

beehall said:

How do I get these sleeves out without destroying them>
bread, grease, etc did not work.
Tried to weld a washer & nut to the standard one. Weld will not stick to the sleeve?
What is it made out of ?
Tried to drill and tap, maybe a steering wheel type puller would work?
Cannot be drilled.
Should these sleeves be bottomed out in the crank?
They both are so a puller has nothing to grab to get them out.
it is very hard for me to understand whey this task is almost impossible.
Thanks again !

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I have a couple of the torque converter bushings for the crank if you still need one. The best way is a blind hole bearing puller. There is a very small chamfer that they can get aholt of even if the bushing is bottomed out in the crank.

This is merely the type of puller you need. Find one that you can be reasonably assured is not junk.
https://www.amazon.com/LainKeen-Bea...-Expandable/dp/B0D49LJ1JV/?tag=wranglerorg-20

beehall said:

I just ordered the puller. Thank you, Mrblaine, so very much.

Click to expand...

They are just steel converter pilot bushings. They can easily be welded to. If you are a good welder and shove something like copper in the bottom of the hole, you can run a bead around the inside of that bushing and it will shrink and fall out. We've done that many times to bearing races when we didn't have the correct puller.

beehall said:

I cannnot get the auto sleeve out. You said you have one?

Click to expand...

I did say that and I do have one.

The factory ones I've seen are bottomed out.

-Mac

beehall said:

Putting the auto into the standard motor, how deep should the sleeve be pressed?
Flush with the crank face, or bottomed out in the crank?

Click to expand...

Didn't you just deal with one that was bottomed out? I leave them flush with the outer part so I'm not fucking the next guy.