Should I buy this Ford 8.8 axle?

Yup. You know it. Take for example this piece. I just couldn't quite get it perfect with the angle grinder. Maybe it's partially due to my excitement when making these parts that I can't stay still and I end up rushing it, but either way the quality suffers slightly.
View attachment 67778
That's just a practice thing. I'll make one today and show you.
 
.... because it has a TJM air locker ...

TJM? I've seen a couple videos arguing that their air actuator is simpler and more reliable than ARB. Any thoughts?

Don't worry, Al Jolsen. Your thread will wander back to where it needs to go. :)
 
TJM? I've seen a couple videos arguing that their air actuator is simpler and more reliable than ARB. Any thoughts?
I've done no forensic examinations between them so I have no basis for comparison. It has been problem free but there again, a statistical example of 1 is worthless.
 
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Then gen 2s though!
What's your reason for the jk over the tj? I know the ring gear is larger at 8.8” as well as the pinion gear shaft.

JK 30/44 front is high pinion and you also get 5-6" of width over the stock TJ 30/44. The JK 44 rear is a little beefier than the TJ 44 and again it's 5-6" wider than factory. 67-68" wide front and 65-66" wide rear is just about the perfect width. If I'm having to truss the axle anyway I want the extra width. If the plan was to stay at 35" or under tires, that's is the route I would go if I was looking to save money. The JK axles might not be the best on the market but I think they are better than the factory TJ axles.
 
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.900 per side and I had no help.



Weren't we discussing rear axles? Try and keep up. I put the larger gear set in the REAR Rubi housing because that was the only way at the time to get a thick cut 5.38 gear set to go with the 35's and the AW-4 I swapped into Kat's rig. I needed a thick cut gear set because it has a TJM air locker which only comes in the 3.73 and down carrier break.



35's.

So no need to run spacers with that kit then.

The mention of 8.8 gear threw me off cause Carl came out with the front kits first I believe. I always picture a front when I hear about his products. My apologies, trying to keep up with a bunch of folks.
So do we know what the tube dimension is on the tj 44 vs the front RUBI 44? Is it different

I guess I should always ask why upgrade to the 8.8 gear in that particular rear housing? What other mods were done and had been done?
 
JK 30/44 front is high pinion and you also get 5-6" of width over the stock TJ 30/44. The JK 44 rear is a little beefier than the TJ 44 and again it's 5-6" wider than factory. 67-68" wide front and 65-66" wide rear is just about the perfect width. If I'm having to truss the axle anyway I want the extra width. If the plan was to stay at 35" or under tires, that's is the route I would go if I was looking to save money. The JK axles might not be the best on the market but I think they are better than the factory TJ axles.

Nice!
Do all 44s out of the jk have air lockers?
Do you know the tube dimensions on the jk44 rear?
 
So no need to run spacers with that kit then.

Depends on the tire size.

The mention of 8.8 gear threw me off cause Carl came out with the front kits first I believe. I always picture a front when I hear about his products. My apologies, trying to keep up with a bunch of folks.
So do we know what the tube dimension is on the tj 44 vs the front RUBI 44? Is it different

We do know. XJ, TJ, YJ, ZJ, JK, all use the same diameter and wall thickness tube for the front axles. 2.5" x .250 wall. Don't overlook the JK in there. ;)

I guess I should always ask why upgrade to the 8.8 gear in that particular rear housing? What other mods were done and had been done?

I already explained it. There are no other mods done because I was only solving one problem.
 
That's just a practice thing. I'll make one today and show you.

Any pointers you think of while doing it would be great.

I've noticed that the smaller the part the worse it is for me too since I can't get into it enough. I was looking at tiny F clamps, maybe I should pick those up.

The other scenario is getting a straight 90* edge on thick parts. I couldn't get the edge at a consistent 90* especially while mirroring both parts (working with 1.5" total thickness). The other nice thing about a disc or belt sander would being able to do a easy chamfer — but maybe I'm asking for a lot at this point.

(Please ignore the spinning nutsert...)

IMG_20181203_203048.jpg
 
Depends on the tire size.



We do know. XJ, TJ, YJ, ZJ, JK, all use the same diameter and wall thickness tube for the front axles. 2.5" x .250 wall. Don't overlook the JK in there. ;)

I know we were talking about rear axles but the front 30/44 in the JKs still suffer from the smaller, thinner axle tubes and they both use the same ball joints and unit bearings. I was surprised at the axle tube diameter difference in my wife's 15 Rubicon.
 
I know we were talking about rear axles but the front 30/44 in the JKs still suffer from the smaller, thinner axle tubes and they both use the same ball joints and unit bearings. I was surprised at the axle tube diameter difference in my wife's 15 Rubicon.
Did they change in 15 or are they the same as 07-14?

FYI, read my post again, find the word "front". ;)
 
Depends on the tire size..

Well once the elimator is installed and the width is gained back, I would rather use aftermarket wheel backspacing to keep wide tires off of suspension and front steering components.

I can double check the housing I have here but I believe they are 3".

Can you post a pic in here if possible. Mention if it’s a standard jk rear 44 or jkrubi rear please.
 
Well once the elimator is installed and the width is gained back, I would rather use aftermarket wheel backspacing to keep wide tires off of suspension and front steering components.



Can you post a pic in here if possible. Mention if it’s a standard jk rear 44 or jkrubi rear please.
My enthusiasm for these discussions only reaches a certain level. I won't be going to the effort to take and post pics of something that is very common knowledge. The info is out there. Find it if you like.

I will leave two pics for you that are easy. One is a JK front I built and the other is the JK 44 I built in the back of the rig the front was built for.

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My enthusiasm for these discussions only reaches a certain level. I won't be going to the effort to take and post pics of something that is very common knowledge. The info is out there. Find it if you like.

I will leave two pics for you that are easy. One is a JK front I built and the other is the JK 44 I built in the back of the rig the front was built for.

View attachment 67798
View attachment 67799
Sorry. I meant can you include a measurement pic of the 44. And is it a standard jk or a rubicon jk rear. I’d like to have more tech pics.
 
This is very interesting reading and I'm slightly in the OPs same boat as far as I've got a Dana 35 with larger than OEM tires and looking for a good economical and reliable solution.

I just read through these posts and I'm in or have thought I'm in the need for swapping out my rear axle. I've never broken any axles. I have a Ford truck with an 8.8 and ZJ with the Dana 44s. I was under the impression the 8.8 was slightly stronger. As a background I've also worked on the Chrystler 9.25 I think and a little with the 11.5 AAM. I've worked on the Dana 44HD and 8.8 as well.

I was looking on ECGS and the 8.8 seemed to be a cheaper option than even the 44, which seem expensive in my area. Personally I've been happy with 33" tires, but wouldn't mind having the possibility to go to 35s. My gearing is odd because of my engine's torque curve is different so for on-road the 3.54/3.55s are basically ideal, off-road my 2.62 in my tcase is way too fast with my current 3.07s. Ideally I'd like to go with an Atlas 5:1, but I'm open to finding a 241 with 4:1. I'm also on the highway some so I don't want to really mess with rear end gearing.

I would like to add a selectable rear locker and have been staying away, afraid to break my Dana 35. My wheeling is fairly easy, but I work around equipment some as well and dragging stuff around, bumping it, going through ditches, and very occasionally go over small logs/tree trunks in hidden brush and sometimes there's rocks and creeks, but I try to avoid anything that will cause me to walk out as reception sucks and no one is on CB or Ham freqs where I'm at. I will at times do some towing and have my TJ loaded heavily for a TJ, for whatever seems easier at the time.

I'm open to the Super 35 kit, but I do hear a lot of people saying it's a waste. I've heard others say there are other weak points in the steering/suspension as well. I want to stay with a 2" lift and 1" body lift. But though slightly out of topic Mr. Blaine, whom I've seen in countless highly informative posts and others do you all have any suggestions? I think I was adding up the cost for the Tcase and Axle, regear, lockers and the number was pretty cringe worthy so if this doesn't hi-jack too much what's your views?
 
An atlas is a big purchase!
I would weigh that option vs a rear axle.

We are slowly getting somewhere in this thread. On paper, the 8.8 is a stronger setup. That’s compared to the Old school 44 and tj44. The gen 2 jk 44s are better 44s.
If you go with a jk 44..who knowss. We haven’t got into that yet.

We need some pics. I hope to grab some at the junk yard this weekend if the rain slows down of 8.8 and maybe some Chrysler 8.25s.

we also need some real work price breakdowns. Many folks argue that you have to weld the mounts on the 8.8. Artec seems to make it easy. My other battle is, if your lifting a tj and swapping to a 44, should or shouldn’t the coil buckets and shocks as well as control arm mounts be moved to be properly setup for a lifted wrangler?
I’m asking.
I included a pic stolen from the internet of some pinion gears from 44s and 8.8.
Hope to get some pics of 8.8 vs 9 and all the 44s too. But need time.

64812F30-E072-4932-A57F-16A4C03995E2.jpeg
 
Well the Atlas is basically the price of going to ECGS axle built to what I want and it's not really an "or" purchase, it's both and where I'm at the 241s with 4:1 are almost as expensive. I know the driveshafts have to be addressed with the Atlas, but I assume that'll be an issue with axle swaps, so I would want to do everything at once and just go get good shafts. I've gotten Tom Wood's stuff before and it was great.

I guess with the 8.8 I'm not saying it's better, but I've used it for utility purposes with my F150 and its been fine and besides adding a locker, the axle shouldn't really be loaded, but my engine has a bit more torque, which I'm not sure if that is a issue with some of these axles. I tend to never use much throttle, but I'd have a wheel and axle get away from me.

I just want a bunch of uneventful trips and I never try to see what my Jeep can do before it breaks. This Jeep is just used mostly like a UTV/ATV around the farm and for driving on the street/highway.
 
Well the Atlas is basically the price of going to ECGS axle built to what I want and it's not really an "or" purchase, it's both and where I'm at the 241s with 4:1 are almost as expensive. I know the driveshafts have to be addressed with the Atlas, but I assume that'll be an issue with axle swaps, so I would want to do everything at once and just go get good shafts. I've gotten Tom Wood's stuff before and it was great.

I guess with the 8.8 I'm not saying it's better, but I've used it for utility purposes with my F150 and its been fine and besides adding a locker, the axle shouldn't really be loaded, but my engine has a bit more torque, which I'm not sure if that is a issue with some of these axles. I tend to never use much throttle, but I'd have a wheel and axle get away from me.

I just want a bunch of uneventful trips and I never try to see what my Jeep can do before it breaks. This Jeep is just used mostly like a UTV/ATV around the farm and for driving on the street/highway.

Jeeping tends to be pay to play. Only you can answer if the cost is worth it to you. Leaving my personal opinion and experience on whether or not ECGS can build an axle to your specs aside, I think your best budget friendly option will be sticking with the 35 and adding a super kit to it.
 
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My enthusiasm for these discussions only reaches a certain level. I won't be going to the effort to take and post pics of something that is very common knowledge. The info is out there. Find it if you like.

I will leave two pics for you that are easy. One is a JK front I built and the other is the JK 44 I built in the back of the rig the front was built for.

View attachment 67798
View attachment 67799

@mrblaine

Mid arms on JK axles?
Edit to:
Are that the Savvy Mid arms kit mounted on JK axles?
 
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