How do I fix this broken evap line?

DaveF

DaveF

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I've been tracking down an EVAP leak and found this broken connector on a line that seems to lead from above the gas tank, along the driver side frame rail up to the evap system...

I can't seem to figure out what this part would be called to look for a replacement online, or to look for how I go about fixing it... Any suggestions? Am I better off just finding a shop to fix it?

The break is as you can see near the driver side rear shock...


20190325_144259.jpg
 
DaveF said:
I've been tracking down an EVAP leak and found this broken connector on a line that seems to lead from above the gas tank, along the driver side frame rail up to the evap system...

I can't seem to figure out what this part would be called to look for a replacement online, or to look for how I go about fixing it... Any suggestions? Am I better off just finding a shop to fix it?

The break is as you can see near the driver side rear shock...


View attachment 86864
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What year are we dealing with since they vary by at least three iterations.
 
DaveF said:
2006 LJR, probably should have mentioned that :)
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Probably. That is the emissions return line that pulls vapor out of the charcoal canister and sends it to the engine via the purge valve to burn them. You'll either have to rig it or replace the line with one from another tank. I believe that it goes over the crossmember, snaps down into retainers on top of the tank and then over to the right side where it connects to a valve that has a line from the canister. Salvage yard or cut it back and use some quality rubber fuel line and connect it that way to the hard line with a couple of clamps.

There are plastic line repair kits with that connector but it won't be something you do under the rig since generally you have to heat the plastic line in boiling water to slide it onto the barbs.
 
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mrblaine said:
Probably. That is the emissions return line that pulls vapor out of the charcoal canister and sends it to the engine via the purge valve to burn them. You'll either have to rig it or replace the line with one from another tank. I believe that it goes over the crossmember, snaps down into retainers on top of the tank and then over to the right side where it connects to a valve that has a line from the canister. Salvage yard or cut it back and use some quality rubber fuel line and connect it that way to the hard line with a couple of clamps.

There are plastic line repair kits with that connector but it won't be something you do under the rig since generally you have to heat the plastic line in boiling water to slide it onto the barbs.
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Awesome, I think I'll try the fuel line option first.

Thanks!
 
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TJ Jim said:
I believe it’s plastic, so a knife or better yet a pvc cutter would leave a clean cut.
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TY. My actual problem is I have a ton of air blow out when i take gas cap off. I have changed the cap. I checked the purge valve under the hood. What else could it be? Is there a fuse to the Purge valve? Why would there be all that air in my gas tank? When i cut the key off the evap tank whines really bad trying to expel all the air. 2006 tj automatic. My evap is behind my pass wheel. Do you know if it has a filter? Thinking it may be clogged? I just don't know & it seems dangerous with all that air. Happens within 2 minutes of running . Please help if ya can.
 
holbrookharley said:
TY. My actual problem is I have a ton of air blow out when i take gas cap off. I have changed the cap. I checked the purge valve under the hood. What else could it be? Is there a fuse to the Purge valve? Why would there be all that air in my gas tank? When i cut the key off the evap tank whines really bad trying to expel all the air. 2006 tj automatic. My evap is behind my pass wheel. Do you know if it has a filter? Thinking it may be clogged? I just don't know & it seems dangerous with all that air. Happens within 2 minutes of running . Please help if ya can.
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I'm NOT showing a code...it got my attention by teh evap tank screaming & i took gas cap off & realized i had all that air in tank.
 
Maybe pinch off the lines one by one until you don't get air in the tank?

My 97 has soft rubber ones in sections so I can do that...if yours are all hard plastic then you might need to disconnect at the evap... which is no fun.

-Mac
 
macleanflood said:
Maybe pinch off the lines one by one until you don't get air in the tank?

My 97 has soft rubber ones in sections so I can do that...if yours are all hard plastic then you might need to disconnect at the evap... which is no fun.

-Mac
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Do you know if my 06 evap has a filter? I have been on youtube for day now lol I know the older ones do but can't tell if mine does
 
holbrookharley said:
Do you know if my 06 evap has a filter? I have been on youtube for day now lol I know the older ones do but can't tell if mine does
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My 97 evap is just a charcoal canister.

And I guess they use activated charcoal in filters...so yeah technically correct.

I believe the later models relocated the evap box ala filter to just under the filler neck in the back corner.

-Mac
 
holbrookharley said:
How did you cut it? doesn't it have gas vapor in it? Cutting wheel would leave sparks.
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If you need to cut one of the vapor lines use a sharp razor blade. They are plastic so using any type of cutter will collapse the line which then has to be made round again before repair.
 
holbrookharley said:
Do you know if my 06 evap has a filter? I have been on youtube for day now lol I know the older ones do but can't tell if mine does
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Look in the service manual for components and operation. The vapor canister will collect the vapors from the tank then open a vapor valve to the engine to allow them to be burnt through the engine. There are components on the evap system to run a self test as required for OBD 2 ( your vehicle emission certification) I am not very familiar with Jeep evap system as I was a ford technician but the system will run a leak test where it will close a vent valve pump down the system hold it and monitor it for leaks. This happens without your knowledge while driving under certain conditions. The OBD 2 system needs to be able to find a leak bigger than a .040” hole. If you look on a scan tool at the “OBD 2 Monitors” there should be one for evaporative emissions. If you see if it has passed the system is operating properly. Most of these components are located under the right rear fender you can disconnect a few hoses and drop the assembly out of there and check for mud or debris in the canister of hoses.
 
NskLJ said:
Look in the service manual for components and operation. The vapor canister will collect the vapors from the tank then open a vapor valve to the engine to allow them to be burnt through the engine. There are components on the evap system to run a self test as required for OBD 2 ( your vehicle emission certification) I am not very familiar with Jeep evap system as I was a ford technician but the system will run a leak test where it will close a vent valve pump down the system hold it and monitor it for leaks. This happens without your knowledge while driving under certain conditions. The OBD 2 system needs to be able to find a leak bigger than a .040” hole. If you look on a scan tool at the “OBD 2 Monitors” there should be one for evaporative emissions. If you see if it has passed the system is operating properly. Most of these components are located under the right rear fender you can disconnect a few hoses and drop the assembly out of there and check for mud or debris in the canister of hoses.
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His has the NVLD style system where it reads the vacuum produced via a change in temperature. It is different than the earlier versions which have a LDP. I'll chat with my helper this morning and see how it would build pressure. There is a fluid separation valve that goes to the charcoal canister on the right side where the emissions group has been relocated to in front of the tail light.
 
With all the venting of pressure it sounds like your losing vacuum from the engine or a vacuum line is not connected. Mrblaine will have an answer for you.
 
TJ Jim said:
With all the venting of pressure it sounds like your losing vacuum from the engine or a vacuum line is not connected. Mrblaine will have an answer for you.
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It sounds like the fluid separation valve isn't working and heat is cause the air to expand inside the tank. We'll look at the diagrams today and see if we can come up with anything. Most other things would throw a code for an emissions issue.

EDIT- the aftermarket refers to them as fuel discriminators. They stop fuel from going places it shouldn't go like into the charcoal canister which should only deal with fumes and vapor not liquid fuel.
 
mrblaine said:
His has the NVLD style system where it reads the vacuum produced via a change in temperature. It is different than the earlier versions which have a LDP. I'll chat with my helper this morning and see how it would build pressure. There is a fluid separation valve that goes to the charcoal canister on the right side where the emissions group has been relocated to in front of the tail light.
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Thank you the clarification, I was a Ford tech and all manufacturers do it a little differently. I wanted to give him some information as I didn’t have time to study the manual. Do you know if they are monitoring the tank temperature and how are they changing that to run the evap monitor or is it continuously monitored.
Seem to me it would be a pinched vent line or maybe one of the vent valves on top of the tank.
 
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