Anyone have any experience with Hayden transmission cooler?

Bird

Bird

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My next mod, which i feel is almost a necessity with the 42RLE is a tranny cooler. Any experience with Hayden coolers ?
They are much cheaper then the direct-fit units but also mount to fins of existing rad.
The Hayden 516 has a larger cooling surface " 15 1/2" " which is why i chose this unit.
Any thoughts would be appreciated.
 
I recently had my 32rh rebuilt and opted to get a cooler installed. The favored unit in my area is the Hayden 679, which is what I used. It's a bit smaller than than the 516 that you are looking at but it's a stacked plate design (more efficient) instead of a tube and fin design like the 516. They are both rated at 30,000 GVWR.

Another popular option is the Derale 20561, which has a temp controlled fan connected to the unit that kicks on and off as needed. It mounts off of the frame near the transfer case.

Due to the mud and water that we have here in Florida, the more popular choice is the radiator mount.

For clarification, the Hayden does not mount to the fins of the radiator. It mounts to the v support in front of the radiator.
 
Y3444 said:
I know this is an old post but I bought the Hayden 516. I was wondering how was it worked and would you recommend it? @Bird
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It's still there,works great, easy install.
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I installed a tube and fin type cooler about a year ago, I can't remember the make and model but it is the biggest cooler I could find that would fit. I mounted it on a custom fabbed mount on the "V" bars. Warning! Make sure you mount your cooler low enough to clear the hood latch. The latch is on the hood, all is well till you close it, then it damages the fins or worse. I also added a spin on filter in the cooler lines (pressure side)to keep crap out of the new cooler and radiator if or when the trans ever decides to spit unhealthy bits out. Cheap insurance in my mind. I also installed a power steering cooler at the same time. (the small loop single of tube with fins type) I mounted it behind the pump but low enough to be somewhat in the flow of the engine fan. I had the power steering fade after some moderate wheeling on a hot day, (Two different times)everything checked out ok. I added the cooler and have not had an issue since. Either it was cooking the crap out of the fluid causing bubbles/foaming, air is a crappy hydraulic fluid -or- it a great placebo, it just makes me feel better and there is some other problem just waiting to show its real nature.
 
TH99TJ said:
I installed a tube and fin type cooler about a year ago, I can't remember the make and model but it is the biggest cooler I could find that would fit. I mounted it on a custom fabbed mount on the "V" bars. Warning! Make sure you mount your cooler low enough to clear the hood latch. The latch is on the hood, all is well till you close it, then it damages the fins or worse. I also added a spin on filter in the cooler lines (pressure side)to keep crap out of the new cooler and radiator if or when the trans ever decides to spit unhealthy bits out. Cheap insurance in my mind. I also installed a power steering cooler at the same time. (the small loop single of tube with fins type) I mounted it behind the pump but low enough to be somewhat in the flow of the engine fan. I had the power steering fade after some moderate wheeling on a hot day, (Two different times)everything checked out ok. I added the cooler and have not had an issue since. Either it was cooking the crap out of the fluid causing bubbles/foaming, air is a crappy hydraulic fluid -or- it a great placebo, it just makes me feel better and there is some other problem just waiting to show its real nature.
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My TJ has one of those larger coolers and the previous owner couldn't care less about taking care of the Jeep itself. It happened just what you mentioned: The hood latch lock messed up the fins of the cooler pretty bad.

I'm about to change the whole A/C and cooling system... (AC accumulator, condenser, radiator, etc.) as it is in pretty bad shape and I was wondering if I should also throw away the installed cooler which has these rows all bent by the hood latch or just keep it?

Attaching a picture of the damage:

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Most of these Hayden coolers are somewhat cheap, so far I see these options on Amazon:

  1. 515 High Performance (3 tube design, 3/4 inch x 10 inch x 15-7/8 inch) $48
  2. 676 Rapid-Cool (plate and fin design, 3/4 inch x 11 inch x 6 inch) $32
  3. 678 Rapid-Cool (plate and fin design, 3/4 inch x 11 inch x 9-1/2 inch) $42
So far, the one with best reviews is the #3 or the 678, slightly larger than the 676. Main difference between the "High Performance" being the design type. I've read in this same post that the plate is a better design. What would you recommend, Keeping the one I already have, which is bent, or grab a new one from the list above?

The one I already have has the mounts support so it is not actually stuck to the condenser with the zips. It is quite longer than the ones listed though.

Thanks for any advise!
 
Well it's not leaking yet so that's positive. If the cost of the new cooler is not a problem then replace it, if the budget doesn't allow for it at this point you could clean it up well and cover the damaged area with JB Weld to basically reinforce any potential weak areas and likely extend its life greatly.(it could last for ever LOL) And obviously move the cooler down. As cheap trail insurance you could keep the necessary fittings, hose, clamps,,, in the Jeep to loop the cooler lines eliminating the cooler till you can get back home, if it did decide to start leaking.
 
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TH99TJ said:
Well it's not leaking yet so that's positive. If the cost of the new cooler is not a problem then replace it, if the budget doesn't allow for it at this point you could clean it up well and cover the damaged area with JB Weld to basically reinforce any potential weak areas and likely extend its life greatly.(it could last for ever LOL) And obviously move the cooler down. As cheap trail insurance you could keep the necessary fittings, hose, clamps,,, in the Jeep to loop the cooler lines eliminating the cooler till you can get back home, if it did decide to start leaking.
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Well no, it's not leaking at all. I do like that it is pretty large and that is mounted instead of zipped in the condenser. Prices for a Hayden are around 50 bucks on Amazon so I wouldn't mind replacing it but it'll be a smaller one. I think the Hayden one is like 11" x 14" whereas the one I already have is 25" x 14"

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JB it up and see if it goes forever. It's not likely going to explode dumping all of your fluid in an instant, IF it goes bad it will likely be a leak. Keep an eye on it like we do the rest of our Jeeps, if it starts leaking, replace it. That's my take, not necessarily what you should do LOL.
 
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TH99TJ said:
JB it up and see if it goes forever. It's not likely going to explode dumping all of your fluid in an instant, IF it goes bad it will likely be a leak. Keep an eye on it like we do the rest of our Jeeps, if it starts leaking, replace it. That's my take, not necessarily what you should do LOL.
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Yeah, that's what I'll do, only the fins seem to be bent, the pass-through seems to be ok, I'll still apply the product you mentioned. Thanks a lot!

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gusrub said:
My TJ has one of those larger coolers and the previous owner couldn't care less about taking care of the Jeep itself. It happened just what you mentioned: The hood latch lock messed up the fins of the cooler pretty bad.
...
Thanks for any advise!
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Am I the only one that would take a small screwdriver and gently put all those fins back in a more original position where air used to easily flow thru?

I'm not judging those that wouldn't but I don't think I've ever resisted straightening fins and never caused a leak on anything

Oh yeah, I almost forgot to add that I'd break out the black spray paint and give it a light touch up since it's fairly visible.
 
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JEEPCJTJ said:
Am I the only one that would take a small screwdriver and gently put all those fins back in a more original position where air used to easily flow thru?

I'm not judging those that wouldn't but I don't think I've ever resisted straightening fins and never caused a leak on anything

Oh yeah, I almost forgot to add that I'd break out the black spray paint and give it a light touch up since it's fairly visible.
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Not at all, that's exactly what I plan to do since the fins are the ones bent but the pass-through plates seem to be fine, I may add the JB that was suggested though, just to be sure.

I'm kinda new Jeeper so it's better to ask more experienced people right?

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OH heck yeah, straighten the fins first. The way I view that is I would rather "cause" it to leak in the shop vs finding out it was READY to leak far from civilization. FYI the JB will likely block that area of fins insignificantly reducing cooling. If the surface is clean it will be a hell of a good bond and cheap insurance. I agree spray some paint on that cooler, make it look new! JB Weld has been around for EVER and its still known to be a damn good epoxy! I carry 5Min JB in the tool box along with a stick of that clay like epoxy, it's saved the day on numerous occasions. No you can't glue a U joint back together LOL but it can seal up a radiator, overflow tanks, plastic housings, a small hole in an oil pan, vacuum leaks from cracked fittings etc.
 
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Jerry Bransford said:
Just a suggestion that you respool that winch properly under tension before you use it next. Winching a heavy load with wire rope looking like that is a guarantee of kinks and broken wire strands.
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I second that! Replace it! Steel winch cables are inexpensive and that one is rough! Cheaper than a coffin or windshield!
 
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