Trying to decide on wheel and tire combo as part of new build

Thanks! The BL is already bought and paid for, so I guess I can talk to the shop that ordered it for me and see what my options are. We ordered it with a plan to go up to 35's, but I'm just not sure about making that jump on my DD with the stock Dana44s
Usually a BL is installed with a MML so you don’t have to move the fan shroud.

Stock Dana 44 shafts with 35’s? Not what I would do.

You could have the shop do it all and run 33’s till such time you wanted to upgrade shafts front and rear.
 
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Usually a BL is installed with a MML so you don’t have to move the fan shroud.

Yes, we're doing the MML at the same time. I wanted to do the tummy tuck at the same time as well, but I haven't been able to decide on a kit.

Stock Dana 44 shafts with 35’s? Not what I would do.

You could have the shop do it all and run 33’s till such time you wanted to upgrade shafts front and rear.

That was the original plan: build around the idea of installing 35's down the road, but run 33's until then. However, I'm now strongly considering staying with 33's indefinitely.

I've spent hours reading about building up the Dana44's (chromoly, truss, etc.), or replacing the Dana44's with upgraded Dana44's or swapping out to Dana60's. Unfortunately, there doesn't seem to be any general consensus. Dana60's would seem like the obvious choice, but apparently I'd lose ground clearance with them and would need to go up to a 37"+ tire to get it back, which isn't what I want (I don't want flat fenders or to start cutting stuff away).
 
Are you using spacers to make them work with the stock wheels without rubbing?

I have spacers currently. But in year's prior, I only had a couple washers on the steering stops with only light rubbing at the extremes.
 
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What is the reason for the body lift over just an equalivant puck lift or taller springs? Also why ml for the same reason? Puck or springs will lift the transfer skid without all the extra hassle.
 
What is the reason for the body lift over just an equalivant puck lift or taller springs? Also why ml for the same reason? Puck or springs will lift the transfer skid without all the extra hassle.
Need to create some space between the tub and the transfer case for when you install a transfer case skid that drops down less than the factory.
 
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A small body lift is part of a larger balancing act between lifting one thing and raising another.

Mine is on 33s with a 4" spring lift. The center skid and gas tank is about 17.75-18" off the ground.
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A normal 33s/ 4" spring lift could not park on this little hill. And I would prefer to not have another 2" or more of spring to get something similar.
 
Yes, we're doing the MML at the same time. I wanted to do the tummy tuck at the same time as well, but I haven't been able to decide on a kit.



That was the original plan: build around the idea of installing 35's down the road, but run 33's until then. However, I'm now strongly considering staying with 33's indefinitely.

I've spent hours reading about building up the Dana44's (chromoly, truss, etc.), or replacing the Dana44's with upgraded Dana44's or swapping out to Dana60's. Unfortunately, there doesn't seem to be any general consensus. Dana60's would seem like the obvious choice, but apparently I'd lose ground clearance with them and would need to go up to a 37"+ tire to get it back, which isn't what I want (I don't want flat fenders or to start cutting stuff away).
Well the general consensus is Dana 44s with OEM shafts, possible gears depending on trans and rubi or sport gearing, good for 33"s.

Dana 44s with upgraded shafts, and gears, are good for 35"s.

Both options can benefit from brake upgrades with 35"s more or less requiring some sort of upgrade for safety.
Anything over then you're looking at axle swaps or trussing.

Also depends on how and where you wheel. I'm sure there are skinny pedal freaks who can break upgraded Dana 44s on a 33" tires and there are gentle giants who can make an OEM Dana 44 last on 35"s.

This is a great link:
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/so-you-want-to-run-35-tires-on-your-tj.2428/
 
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What is the reason for the body lift over just an equalivant puck lift or taller springs? Also why ml for the same reason? Puck or springs will lift the transfer skid without all the extra hassle.
Mml isn't really a hassle in my installation, especially compared to how much I fought my Currie spring to get in place. Most of our rigs are now 13 to 20 years old and can benefit from replacement motor mounts anyways.

A mml and body lift allowed me to raise my oil skid an extra inch, raise my gas tank skid an extra inch, reduce my driveline angle slightly, and raise my rock rails an inch by default when the body raised an inch.

If you have a Tc shifter cable upgrade then it feels no different in driveability with 4"+1.25" than just the 4" alone. Going to a 5.25" spring seems like more work in my parking lot on the ground. That's my Currie 4" spring, I dont even want to try getting an equal type spring in 5.25" in.

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I'll just go with not understanding it yet. Seems a 1 inch taller spring would also raise the oil pan and gas tank up an inch. Dont see why putting in a 5 inch spring is harder than a 4 inch. Just lower the axle jack another inch when you install. Not trying to pick a fight. Just honestly dont see the difference. I'm happy with my 2 1/2 inch lift, so I'll just shut up.
 
the Dana 44/Dana 30 can handle 35's with upgraded shafts from what Ive read on theses forums. If. you don't plan on going more than 35's than I would not even worry about upgrading entire axles. I just did the 1.25 savvy body lift, brown dog mml, and savvy TC cable so I wouldn't have to mess with the fan shroud. Also did it for future tummy and gas tank tuck. I guess it depends on what you want to do and where and how you wheel. In the end, I would go with 35's and 15's
 
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I would recommend the savvy tummy tuck. It has a separate crossmember, and it's an aluminum skid. It's also about the most flat you can get. I have bent steel tummy tucks in the past. Went to the savvy and haven't had any issues.
 
I'll just go with not understanding it yet. Seems a 1 inch taller spring would also raise the oil pan and gas tank up an inch. Dont see why putting in a 5 inch spring is harder than a 4 inch. Just lower the axle jack another inch when you install. Not trying to pick a fight. Just honestly dont see the difference. I'm happy with my 2 1/2 inch lift, so I'll just shut up.
Oh mine did not go in that easy.

There's no wrong way to go about it really, however a 5inch spring does make your selection a bit more narrow.
 
I'll just go with not understanding it yet. Seems a 1 inch taller spring would also raise the oil pan and gas tank up an inch. Dont see why putting in a 5 inch spring is harder than a 4 inch. Just lower the axle jack another inch when you install. Not trying to pick a fight. Just honestly dont see the difference. I'm happy with my 2 1/2 inch lift, so I'll just shut up.

How high up off the ground is the lowest part of your t-case skid? What size tire?
 
I would recommend the savvy tummy tuck. It has a separate crossmember, and it's an aluminum skid. It's also about the most flat you can get. I have bent steel tummy tucks in the past. Went to the savvy and haven't had any issues.

I was trying to find the Currie tt. Would Savvy be the same? Do you have a link for it by any chance?