Trying to decide on wheel and tire combo as part of new build

Goatman said:
What is the reason for the body lift over just an equalivant puck lift or taller springs? Also why ml for the same reason? Puck or springs will lift the transfer skid without all the extra hassle.
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If you just add a puck or taller springs your total suspension lift could go over 3”. Then you would need an SYE (for a non-Rubicon) and a DC driveshaft and adjustable rear control arms.

So if you want to fit bigger tires without all that trouble, a small body lift will work. The body lift also has other advantages, like making room for a tummy tuck, making room for tucking the gas tank skid, making more room for your larger spare to fit above your rear bumper, et. Al.

A MML can help with driveline angles after a suspension lift. It also gives more clearance at the oil pan.
 
Goatman said:
I'll just go with not understanding it yet. Seems a 1 inch taller spring would also raise the oil pan and gas tank up an inch. Dont see why putting in a 5 inch spring is harder than a 4 inch. Just lower the axle jack another inch when you install. Not trying to pick a fight. Just honestly dont see the difference. I'm happy with my 2 1/2 inch lift, so I'll just shut up.
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It is more difficult to install a 5” spring over a 4”. You have to unbolt more, including the driveshaft and possibly some control arms.
 
strumble8 said:
Here it is
https://savvyoffroad.com/product-ca...06/armor-jeep-wrangler-1997-2006/under-armor/
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Dang, you guys are on it! Thanks!

Anything else that I should be doing while I'm at it? This is on an '03 TJ Rubicon. Current list of mods happening:

4" Currie SL
1" Currie BL
1" Currie MML
Currie Currectlync
Bilstein 5100 shocks
Tom Woods 1350 CV driveshaft

And looks like I'll be ordering a Savvy tummy tuck. I've got maybe $5-7,000 more to burn through after that (for this year anyways), so any recommendations are welcome. Thanks!
 
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Also, looking at the requirements for the Savvy tummy tuck, it says that a 1.25" body lift is required. I previously ordered the Currie BL which is advertised at just 1". I see that the Savvy BL is advertised at 1.25". I was under the impression that Currie/Savvy were the same. Is this just a difference in advertising or is it likely that there's an actual difference in these two BL kits?
 
I installed the Savvy skid with a JKS faux-1.25" body lift the was no more than 1" and actually less in areas. Having the the full 1.25" would have made things much much easier.

I recently switched to the Savvy 1.25.
 
KYJeep11 said:
Is this just a difference in advertising or is it likely that there's an actual difference in these two BL kits?
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I went with Savvy to replace the variable height variable torque JKS. Aside from the 1/4" difference, you get poly grill supports with the Currie while the Savvy uses spacers and the OEM grill supports. Put the ~$50 you'll save with the Savvy towards another mod.
 
KYJeep11 said:
Also, looking at the requirements for the Savvy tummy tuck, it says that a 1.25" body lift is required. I previously ordered the Currie BL which is advertised at just 1". I see that the Savvy BL is advertised at 1.25". I was under the impression that Currie/Savvy were the same. Is this just a difference in advertising or is it likely that there's an actual difference in these two BL kits?
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The 1/4” difference is to ease the install of the Savvy UAM. You need a little more clearance than 1”. It was especially invented for that very purpose. See if you can substitute one for the other
 
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Ok. Thanks JMT, that makes more sense to me now. With the SYE of my Rubi I wasn't thinking about all the drive line issues the body lift can get around.
 
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MaloStapalo said:
If you have a Tc shifter cable upgrade then it feels no different in driveability with 4"+1.25" than just the 4" alone.
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What is the TC shifter cable upgrade? Is it something that I should consider with the manual transmission? I haven't seen mention of it anywhere else.
 
KYJeep11 said:
What is the TC shifter cable upgrade? Is it something that I should consider with the manual transmission? I haven't seen mention of it anywhere else.
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Pop your head under your transfer case and you can see the terrible Z design shifter bracket jeep used.

Staying stock height body to frame ratio? Probably not needed but its nice upgrade. When you change that height ratio by doing a MML, body lift, or tummy tuck that linkage sucks even more. This link is for the 241 rubi case if you have a 231 make sure you look at the right item.

https://savvyoffroad.com/product/sav-241s/
 
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KYJeep11 said:
What is the TC shifter cable upgrade? Is it something that I should consider with the manual transmission? I haven't seen mention of it anywhere else.
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The cable shifter replaces the factory linkage between the transfer case and the handle. Whenever something we do, like a body lift, transfer case drop or raised skid, disrupts the factory linkage, it often doesn't work as well as it did. Though it often doesn't work very well to begin with.
 
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Goatman said:
I'll just go with not understanding it yet. Seems a 1 inch taller spring would also raise the oil pan and gas tank up an inch. Dont see why putting in a 5 inch spring is harder than a 4 inch. Just lower the axle jack another inch when you install. Not trying to pick a fight. Just honestly dont see the difference. I'm happy with my 2 1/2 inch lift, so I'll just shut up.
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I wanted to jump back to this for a moment.

Here is the stock 03-06 skid compared to the Savvy.
20170122_124700.jpg


Once installed, the underside of the Jeep is raised up about 2.75" at it's lowest point. The sides near the frame rails see even more added clearance that other raised skid don't do. This is in exchange for a 1.25" body lift.

An approximate equivalent tire size increase would be comparing a 35" to a 30". Or a 35" to a 40". Or the addition of a 2.75" spring lift while avoiding some (not all) of the complications associated with adding that amount of additional spring lift. As an example, my Jeep's drive lines are experiencing about 7" of lift. But the steering, control arms,
and track bars only see the 4" spring lift.

I do want to mention that a reason for adding a body lift really has nothing to do with the ease of installing one length of spring over another. A sensible body lift has everything to do with adding performance.
 
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MaloStapalo said:
Pop your head under your transfer case and you can see the terrible Z design shifter bracket jeep used.

Staying stock height body to frame ratio? Probably not needed but its nice upgrade. When you change that height ratio by doing a MML, body lift, or tummy tuck that linkage sucks even more. This link is for the 241 rubi case if you have a 231 make sure you look at the right item.

https://savvyoffroad.com/product/sav-241s/
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Do you recommend the Savvy TC kit over the Novak kit?
 
MaloStapalo said:
Savvy kit. @mrblaine made design improvements over the Novak for the savvy kit.

If you do get it, thanks to @AndyG Start with it in 4lo and adjust from there. I had a bitch of a time getting it to stay in 4lo but 2hi and 4hi were fine.
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Thanks, just had the shop switch the Currie 1" BL to a Savvy 1.25" BL, ordered the Savvy transfer case cable kit, and ordered the Vanco 16" big brake kit! Have to hold off on the Savvy tummy tuck because it's on backorder, but I think I should be all set to have it installed as soon as it is available. I'll take some pictures once all of the work is done. Thanks!
 
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KYJeep11 said:
Thanks, just had the shop switch the Currie 1" BL to a Savvy 1.25" BL, ordered the Savvy transfer case cable kit, and ordered the Vanco 16" big brake kit! Have to hold off on the Savvy tummy tuck because it's on backorder, but I think I should be all set to have it installed as soon as it is available. I'll take some pictures once all of the work is done. Thanks!
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I think you will be pleased with those choices. Currie bl is good too but that extra .25" on the savvy is nice. Dont forget about a motor mount lift or a plan to relocate your radiator fan shroud after installing the body lift. I like my MORE bombproof. Brown dog I think is another brand that's popular here. I had no increased vibes and my engine noise actually improved because I had old stock mounts at the end of their life.
 
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Just in case you need something to reference to when you install your Savvy UA (see attached PDF). As far as body lifts go, every fraction of an inch counts when performing a belly up mod. There is no way I could have done my savvy install without the 1.25" body lift. I, like others, plan to upgrade my JKS 1.25" to a savvy 1.25", just need to focus on other items first. I didnt see it mentioned but with the Savvy TT I would suggest also running the JB Conversions super short SYE. I had advance adapters and my driveline was still binding at full droop, the only way to resolve it was with the super short.

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Advance adapters output shaft vs the JB Conversions output shaft
20160804_083727.jpg
 

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tworley said:
I didnt see it mentioned but with the Savvy TT I would suggest also running the JB Conversions super short SYE. I had advance adapters and my driveline was still binding at full droop, the only way to resolve it was with the super short.
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My understanding is that with the Rubicon edition, I should not need a SYE. Is this still true with a TT? I did purchase a new Tom Woods driveshaft.
 
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