New Savvy transfer case shifter cable

ac_

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After replacing my clutch in my Jeep it started popping out of 4hi, and then after Moab it started popping out of 4 lo. I decided rather than take it all apart or do any kind of troubleshooting, that i was going to just replace the linkage with a cable. I know it kind of annoys me to read how many times we all do this, and I am not taking my own advice, but when I did my clutch the linkage was a mess and the most of the plastic was broken or wore out, The linkage wasn't the best so rather than replacing all of that mess, I decided a cable might be better. It was reasonable, and it scales in case I ever want to do a body lift or tummy tuck or anything else I am not thinking of.

So I have never done this before, I am very mechanically inclined, so I have little doubt I can mess with this and figure it out, but it didn't come with any literature, and I was wondering if there are anything I should watch out for or do that isn't obvious.

You guys that have done this are you happy with it? Is it a worthwhile upgrade?

Thanks in advance. I will try and post pics if i can get home from work early enough to work on it.
 
I believe the novak installation is fairly similar. Savvy doesn't like including instructions for anything. I believe @JMT installed the savvy shifter so he may have some insight.
 
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I did the Novak one before learned about the savvy one. Definitely worth the few hours of my life it took. I didn’t drop the skid plate or transfer case, which would have made it a lot easier.....
 
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I wouldn't drop the transfer case unless I was doing something else that required it. It seems like a lot of hassle in order to get more room.
 
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I wouldn't drop the transfer case or skid unless I was doing something else that required it. It seems like a lot of hassle in order to get more room.
Without a tcase drop you might not have the room to get the leverage for breaking some bolts loose. Unless you use an impact (if you can fit it in)

I did the Novak with a tcase drop and just did it in place. It's totally doable.
 
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I dropped the skid plate/trans support when I did mine a couple of weeks ago. It only takes a few minutes and was much easier to get to those two rear bracket bolts- especially the rearmost upper one. The results are totally worth the time and cost.
 
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@ac_ swing by my place and have a look under my jeep if you have any problems. Its pretty straightforward.


Edit. . . I wont be home but the jeep should be outside. Unless the wife is out joyriding.
 
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You should be good to go @ac_. Easy stuff for you. Let’s hope this solves it and you don’t have an issue inside the TCase. I like the smoother shifting.
 
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I just installed the Savvy on Friday, it’s pretty straight forward once you take out the old parts and bolt in the cable, the ball stud and aluminum bushing goes on the shift lever once you remove the old plastic retainer. On the TC side you remove the old bellcrank and bolt on the new one. I did mine in 4-Lo but I’ve read 2- hi is where you want it. I did 4-lo so the Clevis pin can be installed so it will be trapped between the lever and case if the cotter pin comes out(personal preference). Shift the lever into four low first and make sure the transfer case lever (underneath) and the shifter (in the cab) are all the way to the rear in 4-lo. Tighten your jam nuts and bolts on the clevis and on the ball socket, ball stud, and bell crank shift lever with the cable tensioners loose, With two stubby 15/16 inch open end wrenches tighten/lock the upper cable in it’s position, then the lower. I found that it’s easier to do this with the transfer case skid off and I have read if you put it on jackstands it’s even easier to cycle the TC lever if needed. Also right below the shifter on the transfer case there is a large bowl that has a spring and detente ball/pin that puts pressure against your shift lever to hold it in the shift positions you might check to see if that is loose I can’t remember the torque specs for it I’m sure you can find here somewhere.
 
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I was just thinking if yours is a Rubicon you have a 241 case so your TC end will be different. Either way it’s well worth it.
 
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I was just thinking if yours is a Rubicon you have a 241 case so your TC end will be different. Either way it’s well worth it.
Correct. The 241 has two of the quick disconnect ball studs and the 231 has the clevis and pin at the t-case shift lever. That is due to the close proximity between the shift lever and CV joint.
 
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I dropped the skid plate/trans support when I did mine a couple of weeks ago. It only takes a few minutes and was much easier to get to those two rear bracket bolts- especially the rearmost upper one. The results are totally worth the time and cost.
We do it the same way and remove the front driveshaft. I ain't got the time to dick with something like that and make it more fiddly than it needs to be. I'm sure that somewhere out there exists someone who as a hobby likes to rebuild engines solely with a special set of tools they made for doing it through the exhaust pipe. I ain't that guy. I need to get done and the fastest way to get done is to get that crap out of the way.
 
I was just thinking if yours is a Rubicon you have a 241 case so your TC end will be different. Either way it’s well worth it.

Not a Rubicon. 231J (sport)

Thanks for all of the responses. I like the advice to adjust it in 4lo that is what I was looking for really some success stories. It has been crazy hot here so not sure if I can get it done this week, but I am going to try.

Thanks again for the suggestions and help
 
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Not a Rubicon. 231J (sport)

Thanks for all of the responses. I like the advice to adjust it in 4lo that is what I was looking for really some success stories. It has been crazy hot here so not sure if I can get it done this week, but I am going to try.

Thanks again for the suggestions and help
It needs to be adjusted at both ends of the travel. If you adjust it too far away from the end gate in 4 low, then it can hit the end gate in 2 hi and essentially be trying to pop it out of that mode. It has to have a small amount of free play off of the end gates at each end of the travel.
 
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It needs to be adjusted at both ends of the travel. If you adjust it too far away from the end gate in 4 low, then it can hit the end gate in 2 hi and essentially be trying to pop it out of that mode. It has to have a small amount of free play off of the end gates at each end of the travel.

Thanks for that, I am assuming that is my issue now with the linkage. I think I adjusted it in 4low too tight in Moab. I will be more careful installing the cable.
 
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This is a simple install as far as installs go. What makes it difficult is access and rusted stuck fasteners. Spray everything with PB Blaster before you even start to loosen everything up. After trying to get to fasteners laying in the floor I said screw it and dropped the T-case skid which made access much much easier. I didn’t drop the front driveshaft but that probably would have been a time and aggravation saver also. The top nut on the shift linkage bracket attached to the transmission was especially difficult to access. I already had the center console removed so I pulled the rubber boot surrounding the shifter and was easily able to access that nut from the top on my 05 6-spd. There’s a excellent YouTube install video of the Novak cable shifter with good tips and step by step instructions. These type of shifters will cure your T-case shifter blues. I did a body lift afterwards and didn’t even affect my cable shift linkage.