Rear axle truss for Ford 8.8

TreverStevens

Knows enough to be dangerous
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I bought a Ford 8.8 and in the process of shaving all the bracketry off and doing all the seals and bearings. I'm planning on doing a truss kit because I think it will all be easier in the long run rather than individual brackets for everything and getting the geometry right on all of it. The two top contenders right now is the Barnes 4WD 8.8 truss (https://www.barnes4wd.com/Jeep-TJ-Ford-88-Swap-Kit-With-Truss_p_498.html) and the Artec 8.8 truss (https://www.artecindustries.com/TJ_8.8_Swap_Kit). I know Artec probably is a little better know brand, but Barnes seems to have a good reputation as well. The biggest thing is the Barnes is over $100 less than the Artec. Does anyone have knowledge of either of these or trusses in general to give me insight? Thanks in advance!
 
@Chris looks like I dun effed up and put this in the wrong section, can I get it moved the general TJ discussion?
 
Never seen that Barnes one, looks great for the price.

I've used Artec kits on one ton swaps for JKs, very nice stuff, has has fit well.
 
Never seen that Barnes one, looks great for the price.

I've used Artec kits on one ton swaps for JKs, very nice stuff, has has fit well.
From what I can tell the Barnes uses u-bolts for the sway bar instead of a welded bracket like the Artec. And the Barnes all "keys together", so everything is setup off one measurement. Where as the Artec a couple pieces are "free floating" or you have to measure angles and such for a few of the brackets.
 
I did the swap using brackets from East Coast Gear Supply. They have everything needed for the swap. My Jeep is still not driving, but I do have a rolling chassis and everything looks good. It wasn’t too difficult to just make the measurements and weld in the brackets without a truss. They sent a nice diagram with measurements for the brackets. We used magnets to hold each bracket while tacking it into place.

I’m also in the process of regearing that Disney rig you see in the background.

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I used the Artec JK2TJ for my swap and it went together quite easy. The instructions included were the 8.8 ones so I don’t think there’s much difference in the kit.
I can’t say anything about the Barnes kit, I would use the Artec kit again if I needed to.
 
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I did the swap using brackets from East Coast Gear Supply. They have everything needed for the swap. My Jeep is still not driving, but I do have a rolling chassis and everything looks good. It wasn’t too difficult to just make the measurements and weld in the brackets without a truss. They sent a nice diagram with measurements for the brackets. We used magnets to hold each bracket while tacking it into place.

I’m also in the process of regearing that Disney rig you see in the background.
I'm putting some extra weight on my rig with my current build out so the extra strength from the truss wouldn't be a bad option, and from what I've heard the truss system is a little easier to setup since you just take one measurement and it all keys off of that. Your axle looks sharp all painted and everything! What did you use to paint it and what diff cover is that?

I'll also be looking for a build thread on that Disney rig! Ha ha.
 
Thanks to everyone who chimed in. I talked with @TH99TJ who used the Barnes truss and he spoke very highly of it and sounds like the Artec kits are the same quality. So in my eyes if they are both the same quality and both have high remarks, why not save myself the $100 and go with the Barnes? As of right now that's the game plan. I'll sleep on it tonight and probably buy it in the morning so it can hopefully be on it's way at the start of next week.

Next question is: I'm a pretty amateur welder. I've done a few projects and such, none of which have been visible so ugly "booger welds" have been fine. But none of these things have been as critical as a driveline component either. I've read up on just about everything I can on welding an axle and so forth so I'm aware of the heating of the cast metal to weld the tube into the diff housing, stitching the truss to the axle and letting it cool to prevent warping, and all of that. How skilled does one need to be to weld a truss? I had planned on hiring someone to burn it all for me, but I do know it's a lengthy project and skilled labor isn't cheap (nor should it be).
 
I'm putting some extra weight on my rig with my current build out so the extra strength from the truss wouldn't be a bad option, and from what I've heard the truss system is a little easier to setup since you just take one measurement and it all keys off of that. Your axle looks sharp all painted and everything! What did you use to paint it and what diff cover is that?

I'll also be looking for a build thread on that Disney rig! Ha ha.

My cousin welded it for me. Then had it media blasted and painted with a urethane paint called SteelIt. The diff cover is also from East Coast Gear Supply. Very sturdy!
 
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Thanks to everyone who chimed in. I talked with @TH99TJ who used the Barnes truss and he spoke very highly of it and sounds like the Artec kits are the same quality. So in my eyes if they are both the same quality and both have high remarks, why not save myself the $100 and go with the Barnes? As of right now that's the game plan. I'll sleep on it tonight and probably buy it in the morning so it can hopefully be on it's way at the start of next week.

Next question is: I'm a pretty amateur welder. I've done a few projects and such, none of which have been visible so ugly "booger welds" have been fine. But none of these things have been as critical as a driveline component either. I've read up on just about everything I can on welding an axle and so forth so I'm aware of the heating of the cast metal to weld the tube into the diff housing, stitching the truss to the axle and letting it cool to prevent warping, and all of that. How skilled does one need to be to weld a truss? I had planned on hiring someone to burn it all for me, but I do know it's a lengthy project and skilled labor isn't cheap (nor should it be).


Both of those trusses do not weld to the center section, just to the tubes. Which are mild steel and do not need preheating or post cooling. I would just weld away. One thing to look at when you are done is overall straightness of the axle. Welding warps metal, no matter what you do.

Easiest way is with the axles and carrier out of the axle, is look down the tubes and see if the "circles" line up concentrically. If they don't you may have to slightly bend it back, which you can do with heat/quench. I don't think yours will be bad with just the brackets, but be worth checking. On full length trusses warping can be quite bad and we preload the whole housing up to 1/4 inch with chain and a jack. And still have to straighten.


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Hey guys anybody have a 8.8 in a tj with the artec kit i would love to see some pictures i did mine yesterday and it doesn’t seem correct i had to cut some off the spring mount on passenger side for it to even fit not good photos of what im talking about but all i have with me at the moment

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I used the Artec JK2TJ for my swap and it went together quite easy. The instructions included were the 8.8 ones so I don’t think there’s much difference in the kit.
I can’t say anything about the Barnes kit, I would use the Artec kit again if I needed to.
Do you have any pictures
 
Hey guys anybody have a 8.8 in a tj with the artec kit i would love to see some pictures i did mine yesterday and it doesn’t seem correct i had to cut some off the spring mount on passenger side for it to even fit not good photos of what im talking about but all i have with me at the moment
I've talked with one local Jeep builder and he has used Artec kits on a few different axles (8.8, TJ2JK, and I think a Dana 60). He said their great kits and it's all he uses, but just about every time he's had do some sorta modification to the kit. I haven't heard that from anyone here that's used the Artec stuff, but it should like it might not be a foreign thing that you had to make changes. I ended up ordering the Barnes kit and will probably start that process this weekend or next week so I won't have much input for you on the Artec.
 
Both of those trusses do not weld to the center section, just to the tubes. Which are mild steel and do not need preheating or post cooling. I would just weld away. One thing to look at when you are done is overall straightness of the axle. Welding warps metal, no matter what you do.

Easiest way is with the axles and carrier out of the axle, is look down the tubes and see if the "circles" line up concentrically. If they don't you may have to slightly bend it back, which you can do with heat/quench. I don't think yours will be bad with just the brackets, but be worth checking. On full length trusses warping can be quite bad and we preload the whole housing up to 1/4 inch with chain and a jack. And still have to straighten.
I'm welding the tubes to the center housing because everyone talks about the potential of spinning a tube. Still never heard of someone actually doing it, but why take the risk I guess? I plan to stitch the welding in, doing a little at a time, then flipping to the other side to prevent any warping because I don't have a hearty table like yours to correct warping. I'll still check after I burn it all to make sure nothing is askew. Thanks.
 
I'm welding the tubes to the center housing because everyone talks about the potential of spinning a tube. Still never heard of someone actually doing it, but why take the risk I guess? I plan to stitch the welding in, doing a little at a time, then flipping to the other side to prevent any warping because I don't have a hearty table like yours to correct warping. I'll still check after I burn it all to make sure nothing is askew. Thanks.


Good plan. We always weld the tubes on the 8.8s, and 14 bolts. We have spun tubes on 14Bolts for sure.

You also don't need a table, just a bit of chain or cable that wraps under the jack to jack against.
 
Artec cuts and bends their stuff in Bountiful Utah, I stop in once in a while when I need an occasional bracket.