Body lift and motor mount lift install help

I just completed my Savvy Body Lift. I don't know if this has been mentioned yet, but when you do the rubber isolators below the grille, you'll need to take out the headlights to run the bolt through the hole and screw it into the spacer provided in the savvy kit. On the end of the rubber isolator, there is a nipple. You will have to trim the nipple before fitting it into the spacer, otherwise it will interfere with the bolt coming through the spacer.

One final thing. Make sure you unscrew the fuel filler. When you do the body lift, the body will pull the rubber filler hose, and you could possibly break something. When you do that, and the body lift is complete, you'll notice that there is a gap, and the filler won't mate up. You either have to loosen the hose and adjust it, or do like I did and cut it off (I got tired of trying adjust it), and buy a new hose. I got a hose on Amazon that happened to be longer than stock for the TJ. It worked out perfectly. Here's a link below to the one I got

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FPXUKM/?tag=wranglerorg-20

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The rear most body mounts are next to the rear bumper bolts outside the frame rails.
The next forward mounts are near the upper rear shock mounts.
Then there are the three on each outside frame rail.
The front mount is under the middle of the grill assembly with a snubber rubber on each side atop the frame rails.
This makes for a total of 11 mounts plus 2 rubber snubber extensions total count.


You will have to re-drill the holes in your fan shroud 1" farther down to move the opening so the fan doesn't eat your shroud with the body and a 1" motor mount lift.

*****Posting this for others who are about to start a body mount lift and motor mount lift at the same time who may read this thread.*****

RR
 
Looks like you're doing the BL first, which is good. That way you'll have plenty of clearance when you're lifting the motor and transmission for the MML. Otherwise, you may have to lift the tub to get enough space to get the motor mount bolts to line up with the MML installed.

For the MML, if you can't get the through bolt out on the driver's side, remove the entire bracket holding the motor mount to the engine block. There are three bolts at 45 ft-lbs. Be careful with the bolts if you have to work harder than that to get them out so you don't strip something. Once you have the entire assembly out, you can put it back together with the through bolt coming in from the other direction.

The nut on the underside of the passenger-side motor mount can be tough to get to because the bolt holding the bracket to the engine block can be in the way. If so, you can pull that bolt while you're working on the motor mount nut and put it back when you're done.
thanks for that, I just finished my body lift, onto the motor mount lift. also I currently have about a 1 inch tcase drop from the previous owner, along with a 3" skyjacker lift. I was told I might not be able to return the skid to stock height. Do you by any chance know what bolts I can use and how to settle the vibrations? id leave it where it is for now except then the mml would be pointless. I also should mention that I cant shift into 2nd 4th or reverse
 
That has to do with the linkage angles. You can re-drill a hole in the bracket mounted to the Transfer Case to correct the angles and make it shift again.

However, I recommend just getting a cable shifter conversion kit from one of the numerous makers out there. The cable shifter makes it impossible for the transfer case linkage to bind up when you flex in the rocks so you will always be able to change TC ranges without worry.

RR
 
As far as the skid plate, get rid of the drop kit for sure since you have the MML & BL going on, it's not needed. The motor mount lift helps to correct the drive shaft angles for the rear but depending on what year and powertrain option you have, you may still have some vibes and need to correct the pinion angle of the rear axle with adjustable control arms or maybe go to the SYE fixed yolk drive shaft & TC output kit altogether. For sure I would have adjustable control arms to adjust rear pinion angles at a minimum, (at least the rear upper arms should be adjustable to correct pinion angles).

The drive shaft angles are adjusted differently depending on if you have a stock drive shaft or a double cardan drive shaft assembly. If you have a stock drive shaft, the rear pinion angle is adjusted the same as the TC output shaft.

If you have a double cardan drive shaft with a fixed yolk or flange kit on your TC, then you want to point the rear axle pinion within about 1* of straight at the rear output shaft on the TC. These angles are crucial to eliminate rear drive shaft vibrations. The more suspension lift you have over stock, the more likely you are to have vibrations if the driveline angles aren't addressed properly.

***Body lifts don't really affect pinion angles since the suspension is mounted to the frame. This is why suspension lifts affect drive shaft vibrations and body lifts typically don't.***

RR
 
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thanks for that, I just finished my body lift, onto the motor mount lift. also I currently have about a 1 inch tcase drop from the previous owner, along with a 3" skyjacker lift. I was told I might not be able to return the skid to stock height. Do you by any chance know what bolts I can use and how to settle the vibrations? id leave it where it is for now except then the mml would be pointless. I also should mention that I cant shift into 2nd 4th or reverse
I was working with just the same setup recently. I had a 1" transfer case drop when I put in my MML, and that caused the rear of the valve cover to contact the firewall — just barely, but enough to transmit engine vibrations through to the dash and steering wheel.

You'll want to bring the transfer case back up, possibly all the way, possibly part of the way. How far depends on what's going on with your rear drive shaft and u-joints. I just grabbed a big box of 1/2" fender washers from the hardware store and stacked enough of them between the frame and transfer case skid to get things to work out.

I wish I could help with the shifting but I have an automatic. I haven't looked at the manual transmission at all.
 
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That has to do with the linkage angles. You can re-drill a hole in the bracket mounted to the Transfer Case to correct the angles and make it shift again.

However, I recommend just getting a cable shifter conversion kit from one of the numerous makers out there. The cable shifter makes it impossible for the transfer case linkage to bind up when you flex in the rocks so you will always be able to change TC ranges without worry.

RR

Or just adjust the linkage?? Loosen the "saddle" bolt underneath at the linkage to adjust
Google is your friend
 
How did the install go? Did you manage to get both BL and MML bolted up?
Thanks for asking, yeah i finished the bl and mml yesterday, all i have to do now is get rid of my tcase drop and buy some bolts. Anyways does anyone know what bolts I should use for the stock transfer case skid up to the frame?
 
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Thanks for asking, yeah i finished the bl and mml yesterday, all i have to do now is get rid of my tcase drop and buy some bolts. Anyways does anyone know what bolts I should use for the stock transfer case skid up to the frame?
Should still be the 1/2x13 used on earlier TJs. Get 'em an inch shorter than what's in there if the currently installed bolts are aftermarket. The factory bolts are long enough for up to about an inch of drop. Apply some antiseize to the bolt heads and if you buy new bolts, make sure they're Grade 5.
 
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After doing the body lift I grabbed the fuel hose and stretched it to put the screws back in on the fill up. I did not loosen the clamp on the bottom and I have been getting the engine code P0455, evap leak. Is it because I didnt loosen it?
 
After doing the body lift I grabbed the fuel hose and stretched it to put the screws back in on the fill up. I did not loosen the clamp on the bottom and I have been getting the engine code P0455, evap leak. Is it because I didnt loosen it?
 
After doing the body lift I grabbed the fuel hose and stretched it to put the screws back in on the fill up. I did not loosen the clamp on the bottom and I have been getting the engine code P0455, evap leak. Is it because I didnt loosen it?
Was it able to reach without loosening any of the connection points? Mine wasn’t even close to reaching just by stretching the hose. Could be a lot of stress in the hose and neck. Maybe the gas cap isn’t fully seated?
 
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After doing the body lift I grabbed the fuel hose and stretched it to put the screws back in on the fill up. I did not loosen the clamp on the bottom and I have been getting the engine code P0455, evap leak. Is it because I didnt loosen it?
You might have pulled it off the neck below near the tank. Have you tried to put gas in it and seen any leaks?

Could be as simple as a gas cap BUT I doubt it, since you were pulling on that hose
 
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You might have pulled it off the neck below near the tank. Have you tried to put gas in it and seen any leaks?

Could be as simple as a gas cap BUT I doubt it, since you were pulling on that hose
ive filled it up recently, no leaks, ive got 60 miles on the current trip and all of a sudden it now gets the engine light
 
@fuse, thanks for your install notes. I tackled both lifts over this weekend and having that knowledge helped. It took a lot of trial and error to get both through bolts lined up at the same time! I'm pretty sore, but it feels good to get it done.

Test drove, all seems good. At first, I couldn't shift into 2nd, 4th and Reverse very easily, but after driving it a bit, it seems to have just enough room. I haven't tried shifting the TC yet, but if it doesn't work, I have the later version linkage with some adjustment. Has anyone been able to keep their stock shift linkage?
 
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I tried to install the MML tonight (1" budget lift from JKS) and I was able to get the passenger side through bolt installed, but the drivers side I couldn't make happen. I was lifting the engine to try to line up the through bolt and the entire jeep was lifting up. Then my front diff started leaking. The instructions don't give me any guidance on how to get the engine lifted up so I can install the last through bolt. Any help is greatly appreciated.