Well a new output shaft seal is in and I am happy to say my transfercase is now leak free! I also put in a new centering yoke and ujoint. My drive in felt vibe free, but that damn noise is still persisting :mad:. With the driveshaft out, I cannot hear the noise. I put the driveshaft in, jack up the rear and put it in gear and I cannot hear it. Rotation consistent with wheel speed. Axle bearings good shape, both diffs rebuilt, transfercase has fresh fluid and new chain, new ujoints and centering ball in drivehsaft. Happens in 2wd and 4wd. I am stumped at this point.
Have you tried running it at speed on jackstands? I’ve done it in the past go diagnose noise. Not the safest thing but the easiest.
 
You could roll it down a hill in neutral with the engine off, and set your gopro up underneath, try it a few times with the gopro at different angles. That may help zero in on the noise
 
You could roll it down a hill in neutral with the engine off, and set your gopro up underneath, try it a few times with the gopro at different angles. That may help zero in on the noise

No noise in neutral. Under load only, and even then I cant produce it on Jack stands.
 
i think i hear a metallic, tink tink tink in there.
does kinda sound like something that rotates is out of balance.
 
i think i hear a metallic, tink tink tink in there.
does kinda sound like something that rotates is out of balance.
That's the noise I am battling. My only other idea is the slip joint, but handling it by hand it extends/compresses smooth and i dont feel any play.
 
Here’s an idea - do you have a small cheap mic you could ply into your phone to record in various places under the Jeep? They are super cheap on amazon and you could pinpoint where the sound is coming from.
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The skid is out while I troubleshoot this sound. I noticed the rear brace and spacers looking a little aged so decided to wipe them down and throw a coat of paint on them along with the engine skid brackets

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Is it time for a woody? ;)

Well, you were right.

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I've been running without a driveshaft and took a chance on a TW. My drive around this evening did not produce any metallic ticking/tapping sounds. I am thinking the centering stud on my old one got beat up on Holy Cross when I was experiencing angry sparrows. Rebuilding must have only lasted so long before the stud showed its true self.
 
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Well, you were right.

View attachment 137013View attachment 137014

I've been running without a driveshaft and took a chance on a TW. My drive around this evening did not produce any metallic ticking/tapping sounds. I am thinking the centering stud on my old one got beat up on Holy Cross when I was experiencing angry sparrows. Rebuilding must have only lasted so long before the stud showed its true self.

When I ordered mine I wasn’t sure of if I should do with or without the boot and went with their recommendation of with. Just for my education since I still don’t have an opinion on it, why did you go with the bootless option?
 
When I ordered mine I wasn’t sure of if I should do with or without the boot and went with their recommendation of with. Just for my education since I still don’t have an opinion on it, why did you go with the bootless option?
My thought is I'll be servicing this regularly. Any new grease will push out old contaminated grease
 
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I reinstalled my savvy skid yesterday after changing the gear oil (5.13s are officially broken in). I went to mount the new engine skid but the holes where the engine skid and transfercase skid were way off. Not a big deal, I can drill new holes easily. @jjvw mentioned getting rid of the overlap and cutting the engine skid, and mounting it flush with the tcase skid with a big plate on top, curious if anyone else has done it this way :unsure:
 
Had about an hour today and fixed my squeaky belt. The pulley wasn't tight enough and would squeak for a few seconds in the cold mornings. Also diagnosed my passenger seat heater. It would work for a bit then a fuse would pop. It was tied into the fog lamp fuse behind the glove box. A closer look showed the ground side of the fuse slot had come loose. So I was getting power, but a poor intermittent ground.
 
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My seat heater blew a fuse again. Something I have been wanting to do lately is some rewiring. I have a rats nest of wires coming from the gntx mirror, both seat heaters, and something else..maybe my compressor switch (I cant remember at the moment) that are all being jumped by the little fuse box behind the glovebox. I am certain I am overloading it. I have a second fuse box that I pulled from the junkyard and was going to follow this thread
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/diy-auxiliary-pdc-fuse-box.9440/
It is a great thread with a lot of detail. However, with the highlines and OBA air block I found that I currently do not have any room to mount it. I decided to go with something smaller and opted for a 12-way fuse box from ebay.
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-...0001&campid=5337789113&icep_item=223612423347

My two relays for both seats are under the center console. I might try and relocate those to the firewall so they are securely mounted. My compressor relay I will do the same. All the wires from the fusebox behind the glovebox will get removed and placed in heatshrink/wire loom and routed to the new fuse box which I can mount on the driver side inner fender or try and mount underneath the steering column somewhere. Also, in preperation of our annual April Phools run, I bought a new antenna mount for my CB along with a 2' firestik. The bestop carrier does not allow me to use my passenger side mounted antenna mount.
 
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I have the smaller version of that fuse block, still unused unfortunately. One of these days though... I’ll be curious to see how you run the wiring, I’m still undecided which is why there’s not been motion.
 
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Teraflex has changed their antenna mount a bit. It now comes with two antenna holes (HAM?) and the paint is removed for proper ground. Maybe this isn't new news but my old mount I had to grind the paint away for a ground and only has one antenna mounting hole

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Vs old

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