New trailer project (Pack Mule?)

Sorry it took awhile, but here is a picture of my torsion axle bolted on. There is even a part #. I can take more pictures if you need them.
The name of the place I got it from was.
SouthWest Wheel Co.
8740 John W. Carpenter Fwy
Dallas Texas 75247
214-631-0200
They were great to work with. I called them and told them what I wanted and the measurements.
I went with a 3,500 lb axle. I don't think you really need that much. I would go with a 2,000. Would probably ride better.
I left the 2"x2" tubing they have on there, had to extend it out a little and then bolted to that.

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This is very helpful! Thank you for the pics and info.

I was thinking a 2000 lbs axle would be all I need too.
 
Haven't done much to the trailer yet, but I did pressure wash it yesterday just to clean it up a little before I start doing some sanding on it.

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I wish whoever put the upper tail lights in had not done that. I love round tail lights, but the trim ring on the uppers are under the tailgate when it's closed. I've been thinking of either trimming about 1/4 of an inch off each side of the tailgate for clearance (looks like there is plenty of room to trim that much off) or cutting some metal and welding in a filler panel to just make it a smooth surface. Or more extreme, cutting that area out, just above the bottom lights and over to the edge of the box body. The reason I'm thinking of that is because I'm considering mounting a license plate on the rear of the left fender. It would make it more visible from behind and I can light it without having to worry about disconnecting any wiring if removing the tailgate (there are holes already in the tailgate where someone had one mounted).

Would it weaken the rigidity of the rear box without that extra metal on there?

Oh, and I plan to remove the square lights and bracket completely and install a small 3/4 inch 3 wire round LED for a marker/turn signal light somewhere in that area.
 
I wish whoever put the upper tail lights in had not done that. I love round tail lights, but the trim ring on the uppers are under the tailgate when it's closed. I've been thinking of either trimming about 1/4 of an inch off each side of the tailgate for clearance (looks like there is plenty of room to trim that much off) or cutting some metal and welding in a filler panel to just make it a smooth surface. Or more extreme, cutting that area out, just above the bottom lights and over to the edge of the box body. The reason I'm thinking of that is because I'm considering mounting a license plate on the rear of the left fender. It would make it more visible from behind and I can light it without having to worry about disconnecting any wiring if removing the tailgate (there are holes already in the tailgate where someone had one mounted).

Would it weaken the rigidity of the rear box without that extra metal on there?

Oh, and I plan to remove the square lights and bracket completely and install a small 3/4 inch 3 wire round LED for a marker/turn signal light somewhere in that area.
You might be able to use the 4 inch rubber grommet mount lights and clear the tailgate.
 
You might be able to use the 4 inch rubber grommet mount lights and clear the tailgate.


I ordered 2 of those, along with LED lights and pigtails from etrailer.com, because I know at least I'll have 2 lights on there. I'll see how they fit in the upper holes once they come in.
 
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I think it would look better with those square lights removed too. Not sure why they are on there since you have the other lights on there.

The only reason I can think of is because the square ones have the side marker light and maybe was required if it was registered at a DMV somewhere.

Or a previous owner was REALLY paranoid about visibility and being rear ended. LOL
 
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I got these Optronics Grommets and Tail lights from etrailer.com. They fit in good but the tailgate still hits them. Still deciding what I want to do.

Option A: cut about 1/4 of an inch or so off each side of the tailgate so it clears them. There is quite a bit of material to work with.
Option B: cut and try to weld in a filler panel and just have the two lower tail lights.

I'll probably just go with option A. I've got to do some work on the tailgate anyway due to some rust. If I keep the upper lights, the bottoms will be replaces too with matching grommets/lights.

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I got these Optronics Grommets and Tail lights from etrailer.com. They fit in good but the tailgate still hits them. Still deciding what I want to do.

Option A: cut about 1/4 of an inch or so off each side of the tailgate so it clears them. There is quite a bit of material to work with.
Option B: cut and try to weld in a filler panel and just have the two lower tail lights.

I'll probably just go with option A. I've got to do some work on the tailgate anyway due to some rust. If I keep the upper lights, the bottoms will be replaces too with matching grommets/lights.

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Can you trim the rubber on the upper lights?
 
Can you trim the rubber on the upper lights?

I thought about that too, but not sure. I think it would stand out a lot. On the right side, it would require cutting up to the high point of the grommet.
 
You might try looking for 3 1/2" round tail lights rather than the standard 4".

I have a '46 Bantam trailer with tail lights in the sheet metal tub stiffeners. Four inch lights do not quite fit. The previous owner resolved that problem in the early 1960's by using tail lights from a '50 Pontiac, which are only 3 1/2" in diameter. When I restored the trailer a second time nearly 20 years ago I couldn't find anything that worked better.

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A quick Google search this morning revealed some LED versions much more affordable than the Bob Drake reproductions I purchased back then.

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Speedway-1950-Pontiac-LED-Tail-Light-Assembly,39564.html

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Maybe you can find something like this with flat lenses.
 
@lowranger , do you know if this is how the original axle is set up?

Just trying to figure out what I'm starting with.

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That's original axle mount. I had to join so I could respond to your post. I have a Packmule trailer that I purchased new in 1985 from the boy's in Marysvillec CA that made them. I wasn't totally convinced that having no springs was a good idea. The guys building these trailers had a small business building farm equipment trailers and built these for sale to their jeep club friends and public. Their argument against springs was based on their experience with off-road equipment stating that springs can work against you to upset our load on rough trails. It seemed reasonable and I had no experience to counter that. I figured I could always add springs if I really needed them. Their solution: drop your tire pressure to around 20 PSI and you'll be fine. Bottom line, I've still got my trailer and still use it. I have no issues running down the highway at 70 MPH with no springs. I run the tires at 20 PSI all the time. The tires are my springs. The boy's in Marysville offered to match your vehicle with wheel hubs on the axles. You can probably find a hub to match your jeep and swap that out. I take my worn tires off the jeep and run them on the trailer. Try running your trailer as-is and I think you'll be impressed with how it tows. My trailer came with a steel top and I ordered the gas can mounts for both sides. Below are current and old pictures when new.
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Great info, thank you, and welcome to the site.

Thats cool that they offered matching paint and choice of hubs. I guess hubs ain’t to expensive, so I could try to locate a pair and try that.