Help with M.O.R.E. MML install

LONGJP2 said:
Did the guy from MORE say it was supposed to be welded?
Is it possible, that the bolt spins because when it's loose it can lean back? Consequently, if it was tightened to the point that it couldn't lean away from that plate, then the plate would keep it from spinning for final tightening.
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No Steve at MORE said that the design is such that welding the bolt in place is not required. If you look at the picture in post #9 in this thread you will see the head of the bolt is boxed in by part of the motor mount thread. If you look at the picture in post # 13 you will see that the paint on the head of bolt has been scraped of from it spinning. Are you suggesting that if I apply pressure toward the front or back side while trying to tighten the nut that the bolt head may catch? Worth a shot I guess. I will try that this afternoon.
 
taylormade73 said:
Mine were not welded in, as I remember being able to wiggle the bolt. However, it would only move slightly because it was limited by the plate that was notched out around it.

Edit: FWIW, I didn't have any issues with the install based on the motor mount itself. Everything went smoothly except for access to one bolt underneath on the passenger side, but that wasn't a motor mount problem.
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Agree the bolts can wiggle. I started to tighten the passenger side first (agree it is a bitch getting up there especially laying on the driveway. Things went ok for the first couple of turns and then the bolt started to turn as I applied pressure to the socket wrench.
 
Fonz54 said:
Agree the bolts can wiggle. I started to tighten the passenger side first (agree it is a bitch getting up there especially laying on the driveway. Things went ok for the first couple of turns and then the bolt started to turn as I applied pressure to the socket wrench.
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Why don't you just tack weld the one you have or have someone else do it?
 
taylormade73 said:
Why don't you just tack weld the one you have or have someone else do it?
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I don't do windows or welding:). But it is a good suggestion. If I cannot get them tightened trying to hold the head of the bolt in place then I may pursue this approach. Thanks for the suggestion. I should have been mucking with them all along even though MORE said they would send new ones. Too trusting I guess.
 
Fonz54 said:
I don't do windows or welding:). But it is a good suggestion. If I cannot get them tightened trying to hold the head of the bolt in place then I may pursue this approach. Thanks for the suggestion. I should have been mucking with them all along even though MORE said they would send new ones. Too trusting I guess.
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No problem. Yeah, as soon as I felt they were blowing me off I would have been figuring out how to make it work. Hell, probably would've been doing that anyway unless they were asking for them to be returned. You'll essentially be doing what they're saying there going to do to a new set.
 
Your Jeep has been down a long time now. I would be severely pissed. I would have just asked for a return and ordered some from Brown Dog.
 
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Fonz54 said:
No Steve at MORE said that the design is such that welding the bolt in place is not required. If you look at the picture in post #9 in this thread you will see the head of the bolt is boxed in by part of the motor mount thread. If you look at the picture in post # 13 you will see that the paint on the head of bolt has been scraped of from it spinning. Are you suggesting that if I apply pressure toward the front or back side while trying to tighten the nut that the bolt head may catch? Worth a shot I guess. I will try that this afternoon.
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Worked on this for while between conference calls for work. On the drivers side I applied pressure toward the block while turning and this kept the bolt head from spinning got it up and snug but not torqued at this point. Tried the same thing with the passenger side and I was able to get the nut on further than the first time but the bolt head kept slipping. Tried several times with a pointy nose Vise Grip on the head of the bolt but the vise grip kept breaking loose. Was waiting for it to come down an bean me in the mug. I tried wedging a 1/16" punch between the box cut and the nut head. That worked for about a turn. When my sons finishes his classes today I an going to try having him hold an open end wrench vertically over the top of the bolt head and see if that does the trick.
 
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Fonz54 said:
Worked on this for while between conference calls for work. On the drivers side I applied pressure toward the block while turning and this kept the bolt head from spinning got it up and snug but not torqued at this point. Tried the same thing with the passenger side and I was able to get the nut on further than the first time but the bolt head kept slipping. Tried several times with a pointy nose Vise Grip on the head of the bolt but the vise grip kept breaking loose. Was waiting for it to come down an bean me in the mug. I tried wedging a 1/16" punch between the box cut and the nut head. That worked for about a turn. When my sons finishes his classes today I an going to try having him hold an open end wrench vertically over the top of the bolt head and see if that does the trick.
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Damn Ladies and Gents, Sometimes the good guys win! Well after many different attempts, I finally beat the spinning bolt. How you might ask? I beat it with a $.99 Harbor Freight awl! Although the awl sacrificed its tip (ouch that made me cringe). All torqued down and took her for her maiden voyage after the Savvy body lift (nothing but kudos for Savvy quality) and the MML. Runs like a charm with a very slight vibration of the steering wheel at idle. Damn I missed driving my TJ! Thanks to all for your suggestions and support with this MML issue.

Awl.jpg


Jeep_April.jpg
 
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Fonz54 said:
Worked on this for while between conference calls for work. On the drivers side I applied pressure toward the block while turning and this kept the bolt head from spinning got it up and snug but not torqued at this point. Tried the same thing with the passenger side and I was able to get the nut on further than the first time but the bolt head kept slipping. Tried several times with a pointy nose Vise Grip on the head of the bolt but the vise grip kept breaking loose. Was waiting for it to come down an bean me in the mug. I tried wedging a 1/16" punch between the box cut and the nut head. That worked for about a turn. When my sons finishes his classes today I an going to try having him hold an open end wrench vertically over the top of the bolt head and see if that does the trick.
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what about sacrificing a Chinese socket? Grind off a corner so it’s sorta like an o2 sensor socket. Then you can use an extension and breaker bar to hold it in place.
 
Midtenn said:
what about sacrificing a Chinese socket? Grind off a corner so it’s sorta like an o2 sensor socket. Then you can use an extension and breaker bar to hold it in place.
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See my latest post - sacrificed my Chinese awl from Harbor Freight! Thanks for your suggestion.
 
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