School me on mid-arm vs long-arm

why do those links not exert similar control from different points?
still has an IC and a scaleable AS/AD.

if the Y link were worthwhile solution to anything one might assume it'd be way more prevalent in this game.

but a different platform may require such compromises.

someguysjeep said:

why do those links not exert similar control from different points?
still has an IC and a scaleable AS/AD.

if the Y link were worthwhile solution to anything one might assume it'd be way more prevalent in this game.

but a different platform may require such compromises.

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There has been several kits out there that use a wishbone, it just costs more and is only an advantage if you cannot get enough triangulation of your upper links to maintain good axle centering. Point being that it is still all about packaging and if that means putting a wishbone behind the rear axle well there you go.

mrblaine said:

You might want to let them know how many shocks you've tuned, how many coil overs you've set up springs for, a few of your affiliations with well regarded tuners, and why once you have your grade 8 bolt in hand, it really doesn't matter who stuck it in the machine that day, it's a fucking bolt, use it.

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none of that really matters.

to keep it simple. springs hold the vehicle up. shocks take energy and make heat.

Brianj5600 said:

Wayne Israelsen?

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i am not thewayne

mobil1syn said:

none of that really matters.

to keep it simple. springs hold the vehicle up. shocks take energy and make heat.

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Is this oversimplification? Quotes below seem to indicate there is more to springs than just "putting on whatever springs are laying on the workbench." That is a paraphrase from another thread and I apologize if I misrepresented the original. I tried to find that thread, but gave up.

"rear - setup it with 1" of preload for 'trailweight' and then you can increase to 2" if needed for trail weight. your low rate split is causing the crossover and too much preload is to what is causing the crossover issue. preload moves the slider away from the crossover, too much upper spring will cause the slider to move away as well.

front - past the 2" of PL it is time for new springs as well. id increase the lower to get more split."

valving
- front looks good

rear
- go to an 8 on rebound

And like this

"seems right. 2 thing to keep in mind, the shorter the shock the less spring there is to do so the rates will be higher than you think. i would be more inclined to run a 200/300 with a little less preload"

One from thewayne

"figure spring load and get the right spring rates in there if the difference is extreme then use a different spring pack left to right.

Wayne"

Last one

"So these numbers show you are pretty close but a bit on the light side at 72# " with those measurements you have a 729" spring load. Reading back you are looking for about 7" of up travel and with no passengers and possible multi use I will figure it with 1" preload that will give you a bit of room to add weight and adjust. math says you want a 91" # spring rate something like a 150 over 250 or a 175 over a 200.

this is why doing springs should wait till the rig is done because you always add weight and the spring load changes.

wayne"

mobil1syn said:

...to keep it simple. springs hold the vehicle up. shocks take energy and make heat.

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Brianj5600 said:

Is this oversimplification? Quotes below seem to indicate there is more to springs than just "putting on whatever springs are laying on the workbench."

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I and many others would say that's a good way to describe it. And no matter how hard you try, no one is saying to install whatever springs are laying on the workbench based on that simplification.

Brianj5600 said:

Is this oversimplification?

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you have to start simple. if we can all agree that is a spring's primary function is to hold a vehicle at a specific ride height we can build from there. there is a lot baked into my statement, that has to be unpacked once a common ground is established on how to move forward.

the .5-1" of front preload, 1-2" rear preload is spot on.

if that 6" was from the bottom of the frame rail your gettin closer.
a max. of 6" from the other link is well short.

Rear is about 6". Front is about 11". Bolt center below the frame is about 1.5".

Brianj5600 said:

Is this oversimplification?

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Yes and no. You aren't going to reasonably set up 50/50 split on a 12" coil over by grabbing a stack of 40 lb per inch springs and keep adding them until you get the ride height you need. Coil bind will kick your ass. You aren't going to go the other way and grab 2 600 lb per inch springs that are 10" long and stick them on there with 1" of compression at ride height either. You'll need a stack of tender springs to keep the lower cup on.

If you dial in the requested preload, that is going to put your spring rate in a very narrow range. Unless you are trying to violate any of the commonly accepted parameters, you won't have a combined rate that varies much.

jjvw said:

Rear is about 6". Front is about 11". Bolt center below the frame is about 1.5".

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Rear is for geometry, front mimics a parallel 4 link to attempt to keep steering clearances happy with low caster angle change. Also the front separation controls brake dive/pull far better than less separation.

Rock Toy said:

So from what I can tell, the vertical separation in the rear is pretty much identical for both the Savvy and the Ballistic mounts. Only difference is that the Savvy mounts (both lower and upper) are a tad higher on the frame side and the lower mount is 3-4"s inboard of the frame instead of under the frame, which results in a little bit of additional triangulation of the lower links. But when I plugged the different figures into my calculator, my results ended up being pretty damn close to identical. Now I realize that my calculation doesn't necessarily translate to real world results but unless I am missing something glaringly obvious, I just don't see the small differences in bracket setup as being THAT material.

I'm still gonna give Savvy a call tomorrow and see if they might be willing to sell me just their rear brackets but if not, I don't think that I'll be any worse off with the ones that I have. Maybe I'll just pick up their body lift kit and move on.

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Welcome back! Savvy BL is a nice piece of hardware. I would also recommend their cable shifter too if you are still going to run the stock t-case.

Anyway, I like build threads. When you get started on your project, Take pics and share away

Rock Toy said:

So 2 PM's on Facebook, 3 e-mails and a Voicemail at Savvy's shop and no response. I'm guessing that they took the week off.

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Looks Good.

I have emailed twice and called once this week. With no response. I’m over 2 weeks since I ordered my mid arm kit and body lift with no correspondence.

They are posting JV wheeling pics on their Instagram. Not sure if old pics or they are currently there.

It’s not a big deal to me. Rumor is the parts are well worth the wait. So I’ll wait.

They answered the phone when I called last evening but she said she could only process full orders (I need 4 of the BL pucks). She told me to email with the request. I dis immediately after the call. I have yet to get a response.

thems some purdy links.