OP
It would offset it way too much. I am going to stay with the adapters and make the supports like I mocked up.
Wildman's TJ is getting a face lift
- Thread starter Wildman
- Start date
It would offset it way too much. I am going to stay with the adapters and make the supports like I mocked up.
OP
OK I played with ideas more and came up with this. Would like thoughts on this. It sets the studs under the frame with enough space to start the nuts.
And has the lower spring pad about 7 3/4" from the frame.
And then the upper control arm is just making contact with the tub.
And has the lower spring pad about 7 3/4" from the frame.
And then the upper control arm is just making contact with the tub.
Looks good. I assume you are going to have that reinforcement bracket on both sides on the frame? The cardboard piece.
OP
Yes make the reinforcement bracket for both sides.
OP
OK a few more pictures of this idea and some measurements of the difference between this and using the ORO adapter brackets.
I opened the access hole for the nuts a little more.
Now the difference between this and the ORO adapter is 1 1/2". Doing these brackets allow me to get 1 1/2" more up travel out of the airbag. The hardest part would be getting the nuts started if I had to replace a airbag.
I'm using 1/8" plate right now which is the same thickness as the stock spring pad. Any reason to use anything thicker?
I opened the access hole for the nuts a little more.
Now the difference between this and the ORO adapter is 1 1/2". Doing these brackets allow me to get 1 1/2" more up travel out of the airbag. The hardest part would be getting the nuts started if I had to replace a airbag.
I'm using 1/8" plate right now which is the same thickness as the stock spring pad. Any reason to use anything thicker?
OP
Yeah, also if you detached the lower bag mount first it would be pretty easy to remove the upper nut as you can slide it down as you unthread it. For when you need to replace a bag.
That sounds better, everything you need and nothing else. I’d do 3/16”s steel btw but I overbuild.
If anything, add a thin strip along the horizontal plate, just tall enough to not get in the way of a wrench.
I'm still not seeing why the ORO bracket/adapter can't be trimmed to do the same thing as what is being fabricated.
OP
The bottom screws onto the threadall sticking out of the lower spring pad so it has to go on first.
Yes much easier. Do I give the legs just a little lean towards the outside? So it goes to the edge of the rim of the airbag?
I started thinking about that but I've still got to be able to get to the middle to install the air fitting and then hook up and disconnect the air fitting from the air line.
Edit: the reason for not using the ORO brackets is that if I was ever to remove the AiRock system I'd have them to try and sell it.
Yes so do I. Sometimes to my detriment.
jesseshoots
TJ Enthusiast
Why not cut a hole/slot in the center of the mounting plate so that the air fitting can drop out with the bag? It looks like you're heading in the right direction with the brackets.
I agree that four smaller legs would be better than the U shape. Just weld along the three faces of each leg. Leave enough room between the legs so you can use a ratcheting wrench and turn 30*
Also, I would measure the height of the nut, add 3x the thread pitch (i.e. if M10-1.5, add 4.5mm), and cut the bag studs down to that height. Anything after that isn't necessary.
I agree that four smaller legs would be better than the U shape. Just weld along the three faces of each leg. Leave enough room between the legs so you can use a ratcheting wrench and turn 30*
Also, I would measure the height of the nut, add 3x the thread pitch (i.e. if M10-1.5, add 4.5mm), and cut the bag studs down to that height. Anything after that isn't necessary.
OP
The hole wouldn't work to drop the air fitting out unless I could disconnect the air line first. And it would have to be a rather large hole. Cutting a slot makes more sense if I was to go that route. Does cutting a slot affect the strength of the plate?
Making individual legs is easy and I just need to get some flat stock in a width that will work.
I'm trying NOT to have to cut the studs on the airbags unless I absolutely have to for ease of replacement. I'm trying to make this as plug and play as I can if I ever need to replace the airbag while away from home.
jesseshoots
TJ Enthusiast
The slot wont weaken it any more than a hole will. Make the slot just long enough to clear the air fitting.
Makes perfect sense. Do you plan on carrying a spare bag with you or would you be able to pick one up from the local parts store? If you're going to need to carry it with you, just go ahead and have it cut down to size before you pack it with your spares.
OP
I was thinking a slot all the way to the edge so I could pull the airbag with the air line connected which would make disconnecting the air line easier.
If I have a spare it would be with my tow vehicle not on the Jeep. The bags have to be able to fit in 4 positions so if I was to cut the studs to fit the rear then I would have have a second bag to fit the front. It would be like running different bolt patterns front & rear. Yes you can do it but then you have to carry 2 spares. I'm not losing that much up travel by leaving the studs full length.
jesseshoots
TJ Enthusiast
Forgot about the fronts being the same! If I was doing a slot to the edge I would make a bridge between the two sides that would contact the frame to help distribute the load there. something like this
OP
Which brings us back to just having the hole for the fitting and leaving access to it so I can remove it before I unbolt the studs. Keepin with the KISS system.
OP
After trying just doing 4 legs coming down to support the brackets I decided I didn't like the way it looks.
So I went back to my arched support brackets.
I cut out the brackets and cleaned them up. Then I tacked them in place under the Jeep. After I had them were I think I wanted them I pulled the back half of the frame out so I could weld them on.
This morning I couldn't sleep so I decided I would work on the Jeep more. I flipped the frame over and welded the bottom side of the brackets.
The new airbag support brackets are installed. Now to set the frame back under the Jeep and set up where the shock crossmember is going to sit. Once I have that done I'll tack it in place and pull the back half back out and weld the crossmember back in place. Then it'll be time to weld the frame back together. Then it's time to set the rear suspension in place.
Hopefully I'll get my block back next week and I can start working on the front of the Jeep.
So I went back to my arched support brackets.
I cut out the brackets and cleaned them up. Then I tacked them in place under the Jeep. After I had them were I think I wanted them I pulled the back half of the frame out so I could weld them on.
This morning I couldn't sleep so I decided I would work on the Jeep more. I flipped the frame over and welded the bottom side of the brackets.
The new airbag support brackets are installed. Now to set the frame back under the Jeep and set up where the shock crossmember is going to sit. Once I have that done I'll tack it in place and pull the back half back out and weld the crossmember back in place. Then it'll be time to weld the frame back together. Then it's time to set the rear suspension in place.
Hopefully I'll get my block back next week and I can start working on the front of the Jeep.
OP
I'd thought I'd messed up with the air line fittings as I wasn't sure I had the room to install them. So I did a test fit with the airbag and found out I was good 
as long as I used my custom 9/16" wrench I'd made for a different project. I have the room to get the fitting in and can use a ratcheting wrench to install the nuts on the airbag studs also.
So life is good and things are moving along.
as long as I used my custom 9/16" wrench I'd made for a different project. I have the room to get the fitting in and can use a ratcheting wrench to install the nuts on the airbag studs also. So life is good and things are moving along.