What did you do to your TJ today?

I have been prepping my replacement windshield frame to replace my rusted out one. My jeep is an 04 and this frame came off a 02/earlier and I am retaining the inside trim and sunvisors. I think most on this site know that to do this I had to cut something like 7 slots for the trim retaining clips, drill holes for the sun visors and side trim and the tie down bracket on top of the windshield is different so I ground that off and riveted on the one from my old one.

The new frame is white and my jeep is black so I am in the sand down/prime/paint phase of the project.

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I'm looking at doing the same thing. Spray or rattle can?
 
I'm looking at doing the same thing. Spray or rattle can?

I'm using the krylon automotive rattle cans. The paint on my jeep isn't great, and since it's black I just want it to be close and look decent for now, as I may paint the whole jeep at some point, at which time I will remove the glass from the frame.

It's coming out pretty good so far, I'll take some pics when it's done before and after I install it. If my jeep was an actual color and the paint was in good condition, I'd have some paint mixed up (bodyshops have a tool that can match the current faded color) and spray it with a gun as there is no way a rattle can is going to match a color that has been in the sun for 15-25 years or so.
 
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I'm looking at doing the same thing. Spray or rattle can?

Oh, one other thing....If you do decide to do this understand that the windshield bolts really don't come out without some heat. They used some pretty serious threadlocker from the factory and you need heat to soften it. I used an oxy-acetylene setup, but I believe some here have been successful with MAP gas. Some say they have heated a torx bit to red and inserted it into the bolt and let heat transfer do the trick which would be the least damaging to the paint. Anyhow, it is likely you will have to deal with touching up your windshield frame hinges as well.

I know some here have been successful with impact wrenches (some air and some you hit with a hammer). I wouldn't use this approach as either the bolt comes out or you strip the head and have bigger problems. That being said, since you are removing a damaged frame, you could just cut the frame open and heat it from the inside to minimize damage.

Just some food for thought....
 
Since Mopar sensors are critical to keeping check engine lights away, I ordered new Mopar Crankshaft, Camshaft and Throttle Position Sensors. These will go in my trail parts box.
 
Some pics of the newly painted frame. Only the inside is painted right now, I'm going to do the outside tomorrow. You can see the slots I had to drill/grind into the frame. Paint looks decent enough I think.

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Since Mopar sensors are critical to keeping check engine lights away, I ordered new Mopar Crankshaft, Camshaft and Throttle Position Sensors. These will go in my trail parts box.
I would like the same for my trail spares. Where did you order those?
 
Whatever brand you get it is worth swapping the sensor in, that way you know you have two known good sensors. I use the old working sensor as the trail spare. New parts regardless of brand can be bad and swapping helps weed out bad ones.
 
Nothing again ...week 6 of my exhaust drama...and sure enough, after the heat cycles this weekend, and I was going to get to pick it up today ....nope. They misdiagnosed it, the Banks header was cracked like I told them it was ( because @Chris said it would).

Torn back down.

Lord. And got my F250 back from the shop, and ...it ain't fixed. Still has injector issues. What a bum deal.
 
Been a while since I've been on here. Have done rear brakes, calipers, front brakes, calipers, the whole 9 yards. All went fairly smoothly.
Also, I've had a chirping sound when pushing in the clutch pedal at idle, so decided to refresh everything in there. Good thing too, as the TOB was real close to failing. Didn't seem as if there was any grease left in the bearing-I could spin it by hand but as soon as I took my hand away it would stop moving--so I got lucky I got to it before it failed. Should note that my (probably stock) clutch and flywheel looked really good for 150k miles.
So anyhow, first time doing the clutch so it takes me 6 or so hours, put everything back together, start her up, put it into reverse and... nothing. I can Rev it but it seems like something isn't engaging. In between cursing and trying to figure out what went wrong or if I somehow put the clutch in backwards, I look down and realize that the T-Case shift lever had somehow found its way into neutral when I was disconnecting and reconnecting the linkage :LOL: So popped it out of that and drove off. The jeep shifts noticeable more smoothly and is noticeably quieter now!