(help) Aussie Locker Install

Eddie Greenlee

Eddie Greenlee

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Mississippi
Hey yall, I may have a problem but not sure. I am installing an aussie locker,, SO when i put the carrier into the bench vice to remove the ring gear bolts everything went very well. BUT when I took the carrier out of the bench vice and set the carrier on my table top , I looked over on the vice and there set the skeleton frame that holds the roller bearings and the roller bearings. They actually cam off the end of the carrier. SO I carefully put the skeleton frame with the roller bearings on the table top and now I guess i will just put the bearing race back on it when i install the chunk back into the deferential housing. I dont think the bearings should have come off that easy but they did. how does that sound
 
If they're like this, that's normal.

Bearings.JPG
 
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Rob5589 said:
Not supposed to come apart. You probably tweaked the cage while on the bench. You can probably put it back together and be fine.
Click to expand...
Those particular bearings do separate as in that picture I posted of the Spicer bearings. The race is indeed separate on the bearings I have seen. It may not look separate since it can be installed without taking it apart but that's how the rear SET-10 bearings are too. It commonly pulls apart when removing the axle shaft if the fit of the race in the housing is snug.
 
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thanks, i put it right back together and it snapped into place perfectly . i have it in and had to repair a few screw ups other folks had done in the past on the hub bolts. Hey is there a torque spec for the end of the tie rod that fits into the knuckle ?? or do ya just twist the castle nut down far enough to get the cotter pin into the hole????
 
Jerry Bransford said:
Those particular bearings do separate as in that picture I posted of the Spicer bearings. The race is indeed separate on the bearings I have seen. It may not look separate since it can be installed without taking it apart but that's how the rear SET-10 bearings are too. It commonly pulls apart when removing the axle shaft if the fit of the race in the housing is snug.
Click to expand...
I thought he was talking about the cage coming off and spilling the rollers. If not the case, yea the race and bearing do separate.
 
Hey, going to be doing a gear swap and Aussie/Truetrac hopefully next week. Did you add any traction device to the rear?
 
I could put a OEM limited slip in the Dana 35 , but I just had it re-done last summer so, Im not going to pay to have a limited slip put in at this point in time .
 
ok i got everything finished, all the measurements were spot on and the tire spin test worked perfect. except im waiting on the one hour wait time to torque down the dif cover bolts, but the directions say I have to wait for 24 hours till i put the dif oil in and run the jeep/:(
 
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ya know i never thought about it but i noticed a little rust around the outter axle shaft when i pulled the axles today. and also on the inside of the knuckle where the hub sits. I cleaned it up the best i could with wire brush and sand paper (but not to aggressive), then I put some anit-seize where the hub sits in the knuckle. I felt like that was being proactive.
Also being the first time to do this i noticed the dust shield on the axle that kinda closes off the end of the axle tube. should i have changed that piece of plastic ?? and whats the best thing to change to now a days.??
 
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We used 3M RTV, bolt up the cover and fill with oil. No leaks and no possible way we could wait 24 hrs. When I changed the oil in my diffs I used the same method with some other brand of RTV. No leaks.

The plastic disc helps keep out big chunks of whatever. As long as it is intact there is no need to mess with it.
 
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