Automatic Transmission Line Stuck to Radiator

rmasteller

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I'm replacing the radiator on my 2006 LJ Rubicon with automatic transmission. The two transmission lines that connect to the radiator are the "quick disconnect" type, and one is NOT disconnecting. I have the little clips out of both lines, and the line with the 90 degree bend in the metal line came off easily. The one with the straight metal line is not budging. I've put the edge of a metal pipe against the connector joining the metal line to the rubber line, and hit the pipe with a hammer. I've hit the nut of the connection with the same pipe arrangement. No manner of knocking this thing around has loosened it up. I've even rotated the connector in the radiator and hit it again, to no avail. Any secrets out there? Any way to leverage it, or pull on it? Maybe apply some heat? (Always looking for an excuse to get a new tool, and I don't have a small hand torch.) Thanks.
 
Can you spin the line in the fitting? I wouldn’t use heat as there is an o ring in there that seals everything.
 
The nut spins in the radiator, but the hard line just twists the connected rubber line. I'll throw some PB Blaster on it overnight. I didn't see any o-ring on the side that came apart fine, but I'll take a second look in the connector (and in the connectors on the new radiator). Thanks for the input!! 👋 (Jeep wave)
 
The nut spins in the radiator, but the hard line just twists the connected rubber line. I'll throw some PB Blaster on it overnight. I didn't see any o-ring on the side that came apart fine, but I'll take a second look in the connector (and in the connectors on the new radiator). Thanks for the input!! 👋 (Jeep wave)
Liquid wrench is better
 
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You should not have to remove the "nut". Just the jesus clip.
 
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OK, something must be physically crimped or something. PB Blaster overnight didn't help, so yesterday I got Liquid Wrench and let it soak 24 hours. This morning, still no movement. So, I backed out the nut from the radiator. I then put vice grips on the straight metal line and crescent wrench on the nut and it would turn, but it was difficult. So, there is rotational movement in the quick disconnect joint, but I can't separate it. The nut must be damaged. And, to make matters worse, I noticed while turning the nut (and stuck metal line) to remove it from the radiator, the straight metal line started to spin in the metal connection to the rubber hose (see attached). Does this mean I now have to replace the line?

JeepTransmissionCoolerLines.jpg
 
Can you spin the line in the fitting? I wouldn’t use heat as there is an o ring in there that seals everything.
Lou, I was afraid to clamp too hard on the metal line, but once it started spinning in the connector to the rubber hose (and the nut was out of the radiator), I figured the whole line might need replaced, so what the heck. As stated above, not easy to turn, so I think the nut is smashed onto the line. Maybe by me, maybe previously, don't know.
 
You could always get a new radiator fitting, cut the hard line at the crimped hose connection, flare the hard line, and run new hose from the hard line to the radiator fitting. You will either need to make a new hard line to go into the quick disconnect or buy one that has a flared end on it already.

Or replace that whole trans line.
 
I'm replacing the radiator, so I have a new quick disconnect radiator fitting already built into that.

Regarding my existing line, is the metal pipe spinning in the metal-to-rubber connector a problem? That's the two arrows in the pic above.

Thanks!
 
I wouldnt think that would spin but it has been a few years since ive had one in my hands.
 
It's hard to believe it's been a month since I started this simple project. I should have known that nothing is simple, but I don't need the Jeep so I'm not in a hurry. I've got the downstream O2 sensor connectors off and I've unbolted the exhaust from the manifold (it bounces freely). I believe I need to disconnect the two main halves of the exhaust to really free up the front half and drop it. Do I need to remove the skid plate to access these exhaust bolts/nuts? I can only see 1 of the 2 nuts on the exhaust, so looks like it would be very difficult get apart and extremely difficult to reattach without removing the big plate. Are there any tricks to doing this, or do I remove the plate? What would be the torque to reattach it?

EDIT: OK, I found this thread and I guess I'll be removing my skid plate for the first time. Luckily, it was recently removed at a transmission shop, so it should not be rusted in place! What is the torque to put it back on?

EDIT 2: Found this sticky thread and downloaded the service manual. Now I know what needs done and all the torque measurements for each bolt.
 
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Well, I got my skid plate off with no problems. I figured a way to support the transmission/transfer case. But, I broke the flange bolts on the muffler even after several days of using liquid wrench. But, I continued and now I've got my new radiator in and the transmission lines to it are in place. I'm ready to bolt the exhaust back to the manifold.

To fix my muffler, should an exhaust shop be able to cut and replace the flange w/ bolts? I'm thinking I could clamp the flanges together for a trip to an exhaust shop. What advice do you guys have for me?

muffler.jpeg
 
Pop out the broken studs and use 3/8" bolts with serrated flange nuts.
 
Any auto store has the press out with c clamp and a socket, hit the stud with a cheap harbor freight air hammer if you have one
 
For the exhaust flange bolts, I went to three national chain auto parts stores and none had a c-clamp with a spacer, cylinder, or socket style end to push a bolt into. I drilled out almost the whole bolt and then pushed the remainder out with a punch, leaving a flange in very nice condition. Too bad I didn't have correct studs to put back in there. I put in stainless steel M10 bolts (17mm bolt & nut) with a small washer on bolt and nut side, and a split lock washer on the nut side. Seems to be fine. Re-assembly continues! Thanks everyone.
 
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