Looking for some input on this gear pattern

BugoutJeep

BugoutJeep

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Just looking for a bit of advice on this wear pattern. I have checked gears a couple times and I think this would be good, but I've never checked new gears. Backlash .005". This is on my front Dana 30. First time installing new gears, so I don't want to get overly excited if I'm doing something wrong.

Thanks
 
Will do. I'm thinking remove .005 and check with appropriate backlash. Coast seems centered, but drive is like 1/8" or so to the inside of the tooth.

Thanks you guys.
 
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BL is .0065". I pulled .005". I added some gear oil to my marking compound too. I kinda feel like I need to pull a bit more shim from the pinion, but what do you think? In any case I'm calling it a night.

Thanks for the help.
 
I think I may have been mistaken on what I'm looking for. Is much of the depth issue, the line near the root of the tooth? I thought I was looking more for the contact vs the center of the tooth, but I think that's controlled from backlash.

So, I think I need to move the pinion further from the center of the carrier ie pull pinion shims and reduce my backlash a little, but it's pretty close.
 
DieselJeep said:
View attachment 216705View attachment 216706

BL is .0065". I pulled .005". I added some gear oil to my marking compound too. I kinda feel like I need to pull a bit more shim from the pinion, but what do you think? In any case I'm calling it a night.

Thanks for the help.
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Come out a little more on the depth. There is a bit of a sharp line near the root and you do not want that.
 
your centered on the tooth pretty good. but still pushing onto the root, i'd pull another .005 out and try again.
 
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Removed .005" pinion depth. BL is .007". I am getting a bunch of marking compound on there. When I first put it back together, I measured my backlash and it .007" without any adjustments. I thought that was weird, but marked up my teeth and started rotating the pinion, just to realize my setup nut had backed off. The nut takes almost no resistance to turn on the pinion, so I'm spinning this thing by hand, but creating resistance still with a rag on the ring gear.

Anyway what do you think?

Thanks in advance.
 
Looks like I'm late to the party lol. The last pattern looks pretty good. So the nut is stripping out or the threads are getting galled?
 
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Something else to keep in mind. I don't have any shims that are smaller than .005", so I've got to remove shims in those increments. Not sure why, but my shim kit came with nothing under .005". At the moment all I've got behind the setup pinion race is .005" and then there's the baffle on the pinion which is .060".
 
I opened up the threads just a bit on the pinion nut and I guess after putting in on there and removing so many times, it's slipping when I use my drill setting in reverse. So right now I'm getting it tight and then just rotating the flange by hand with resistance on the ring gear.
 
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I think I'm seeing a clear line of the grease between the root of the tooth and where this pattern engages the tooth and it looks like there's a thin line of the grease marking compound from the top and tooth contact. The drive side is just a bit behind the center of the tooth front/rear and coast looks centered. I'm not sure if I've got the shims handy to make any more adjustments, because I think .005" would be too far either way. This is my first time, so I'm just looking to see what you all think, to know if I'm reading this thing right.

Thanks
 
It wouldn't hurt to see what removing .005 does. If it's not acceptable then I would run what you have right there. Double check your shims that came in the package. Sometimes .003 are stuck to other shims and you can't tell unless you look really close.
 
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I will double check that, because I couldn't find some smaller shims with the ARB, but they were actually there. I feel like I'm -.002 or or so away of a perfect pattern.

I think my shim kit, may assume no baffle? If I didn't have the baffle I could dial it in with the shims available. I think my ARB kit didn't have any shims under .004" and the other worry I have is that I've destroyed 2 shims when making all these adjustments. It took like 10 tries or more to get in the ballpark of the backlash and preload. I had so little to go on.
 
As a side note, make sure to open up the carrier bearing drain back area of the case per the ARB instructions.
It may not be as big a deal on a front axle as it is on a rear, but going back into a finished job is never fun.
 
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Claytone said:
As a side note, make sure to open up the carrier bearing drain back area of the case per the ARB instructions.
It may not be as big a deal on a front axle as it is on a rear, but going back into a finished job is never fun.
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I already did that, though I should have wait, since shims hit that area sometimes.
 
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I found a .003" shim. BL is .008, but I kinda want to tighten that up because at times I felt like I could get it to go just a bit beyond .008. I'm actually not sure how that affects the pattern.

At this point I've pulled everything so many times I feel like my brain is drained.
 
hosejockey61 said:
That's exactly why I say make large adjustments at first and then dial it in.
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I know I think of that every time I make an adjustment, but then I'm like, well this time I've got it...I've still got the Dana 35 to do. I'm gonna start out doing nothing, then add .010" to see what the pattern looks like.
 
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