I actually spoke with that guy before buying the non highline. He refused to separate the set and didn't have the inners. It's been listed for over a month now and he's only came down $50.
I actually spoke with that guy before buying the non highline. He refused to separate the set and didn't have the inners. It's been listed for over a month now and he's only came down $50.
Is it a different set of inners for the HighlineI actually spoke with that guy before buying the non highline. He refused to separate the set and didn't have the inners. It's been listed for over a month now and he's only came down $50.
Yep... mine are flat and here you can see the highline goes up.Is it a different set of inners for the Highline
Nice catch.I had a shimmy the past couple days commuting and found the front track bar jamb nut backed off 3 turns and just flopping around.
Yeah, I had a co-worker help with a dry steer test when I felt something wasn't right. It's going on the lift Saturday for a full inspection and some Redline MTL in the transmission.Nice catch.
Punch holes then fill with loctite?I recall Blaine mentioning a trick by using a hammer and punch to punch rises in the ball joint seats.
found it thanks. https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/ball-joint-fix.2389/I recall Blaine mentioning a trick by using a hammer and punch to punch rises in the ball joint seats.
Dimple the body of the ball joint in a 1/8" x 1/8" pattern with a sharp center punch, maybe 1/16" deep. Go back in with some 609 Loctite and that generally solves the problem.Punch holes then fill with loctite?
Looks like its due to aftermarket joints in the past.
@mrblaine ? (Oem joint is loosely fitting in - minimal effort to seat and remove)
View attachment 242136
Or you can duplicate the interference fit via some method.I know on the JK's you can get stock replacements that are knurled and the non-knurled. Not sure if that's true with the Tj's as well? I've always been told once you install the knurled ones, then it's best to stick with them. I'm sure others will have more insight.
Thanks for the tip.Dimple the body of the ball joint in a 1/8" x 1/8" pattern with a sharp center punch, maybe 1/16" deep. Go back in with some 609 Loctite and that generally solves the problem.
Hard to tell but it sounds like something in one of the axles or a wheel bearing.Alright so I took the jeep on a test drive and I'm getting a new noise. It sounds like a roational hum that is most noticeable at slower speeds but always present.
Changes since last known good.
Ball joint - all bolts have been torqued rechecked.
Exhaust - DIY so leaks are likely present.
Thoughts @mrblaine
A video of the noise.
View attachment 242808
Thanks. I'll tear down the front axle again and triple check it. I ordered a new wheel bearing just in case.Hard to tell but it sounds like something in one of the axles or a wheel bearing.
What axle shafts are you running? Also, before you say the hub is back, bolt a stock stub into it and see if that tightens it up.Thanks. I'll tear down the front axle again and triple check it. I ordered a new wheel bearing just in case.
I'm running revolution discovery front shafts. I meant to write wheel bearing/hub assembly. - I do not have lock/unlocking hubs.What axle shafts are you running? Also, before you say the hub is back, bolt a stock stub into it and see if that tightens it up.