Who makes the best steering setup for the least amount of money?

On my XJ, I bent/broke two stock setups. For my LJ, I'm going with the Curry currentllync. I found a heavy branch will bend the stock setup and leave you stranded. I'm going to spend money so I can ride, not repair 😁
 
  • Like
Reactions: Jerry Bransford
FWIW, if you are replacing the drag link with the stock TJ one (Moog DS1430) and order it from Amazon, there is a good possibility it will come minus the boot and hardware. Just happened to me, and in reading the comments in the reviews, happens a lot.
If you go with the ZJ drag link it’s cheaper, but there’s some differences in length and bends I guess.
 
FWIW, if you are replacing the drag link with the stock TJ one (Moog DS1430) and order it from Amazon, there is a good possibility it will come minus the boot and hardware. Just happened to me, and in reading the comments in the reviews, happens a lot.
If you go with the ZJ drag link it’s cheaper, but there’s some differences in length and bends I guess.

I had this exact thing happen to me. Very frustrating to not be able to put it together because of missing parts!
 
  • Like
Reactions: DaYooperTransplant
There is no better steering setup (not for stock axles at least) than the Currie Currectlync, plain and simple.

Stomach the cost and buy it, because nothing else is going to come close, period.

I agree. I had a Rubicon Express kit that I replaced with this Currie system. It was costly but will outlast my Jeep. Wish I had installed it in the first place.
 
I have an OME 2” spring lift that uses no bump stop extensions. The Currie Currectlync instructions say you need a minimum of 2” extension beyond stock with their system. Really? What is so different about it that it requires giving up 2 inches of travel?
 
I have an OME 2” spring lift that uses no bump stop extensions. The Currie Currectlync instructions say you need a minimum of 2” extension beyond stock with their system. Really? What is so different about it that it requires giving up 2 inches of travel?
I never had more than 1.5" BS extension on my Currie stuff. Less is certainly doable. Cycle the axle without springs to find out and adjust things as needed. Keep an eye on the track bar.
 
I never had more than 1.5" BS extension on my Currie stuff. Less is certainly doable. Cycle the axle without springs to find out and adjust things as needed. Keep an eye on the track bar.
I can confirm that with a Dana 30 you can make the Currie steering work with zero added bump stop.
 
Sounds like what you got was a factory style replacement. The ZJ tie rod looks nothing like stock TJ and is certainly not a hollow tube.

Get the right part this time. The ZJ tie rod is more than most will ever need. What I don't know is the best brand to buy. In my experience, the Crown version is poor quality.
Agreed! I have both Currie and Zj. The ZJ is more than most will ever need and I've installed at least a 1/2 dozen of them, using Moog. Never once had a problem with them.
 
I have an OME 2” spring lift that uses no bump stop extensions. The Currie Currectlync instructions say you need a minimum of 2” extension beyond stock with their system. Really? What is so different about it that it requires giving up 2 inches of travel?

I installed the Currie Correctlync on my Jeep today and the instructions do state the steering is for a 2-4" lift with stock pitman arm or a 6" lift with a drop pitman arm.
The drag link appears to be too long with the TRE adjusted fully at the pitman arm to center the steering with no lift. What I encountered with my 2" lift; there is 1/2" of adjustment remaining on the pitman arm tie rod end and 1/4" remaining on each of the two lower tie rod ends.