Nashville TJ's Build - Continued

Thanks to help from @Blackjack, the heavy duty suspension parts I ordered were delivered today. Much beefier 3/8" shackles, and bronze bushings. All the bolts are greaseable as well. I'm doing a short wheelin' trip down to AOP next weekend, so I'll get this done this week.

IMG_7458.JPG
 
One significant issue with the 115 volt AC feed from my on-board welder is that because of the nature of the AC generated, you can't use any power tools which have a variable speed trigger. If you do so, the trigger burns out almost immediately - with lots of cool smoke. The reason is that the unit creates voltage which alternates at 7,000 hertz - compared to 60 hertz from regular US AC lines. This is also the reason the welder works to well.

I was reminded of this during my recent trailer repair coming back from Moab. I didn't mention it, but the trigger on the drill we used burned out almost immediately when we tried to use it. After which, it would go wide open as soon as you plugged it in. We got it to work by my holding the drill, and my brother plugging and unplugging the thing to drill the holes on those shackles.

I like to carry corded tools on the rig and not have to worry about batteries, so I went looking for a new drill. But I could not find a decent single speed corded 1/2" drill (why would you need one of those?). So, picked up a Dewalt 1/2" variable speed corded drill, and figured I would rewire it for single speed. Here it is:

VSHU6179.JPG


So I tore it apart and carefully opened up the trigger mechanism - these things really are not made to be serviced, so that took some doing. Turns out that the way it operates worked to my advantage. There is a chip in there that engages first and creates the reduced current flow for the variable speed control. This is the part which gets fried when you plug it into the Power Welder. But then when the trigger is fully engaged, it makes a pure mechanical connection between the inbound AC line and the motor.

IMG_7434.JPG


So after the challenge of getting the switch apart, the mod turned out to be easy. All I had to do was cut all the connections to the chipset, reassemble the trigger, and put it all back together.

IMG_7431.JPG


And just like that, I had a single speed 1/2" corded drill - without any smoke...

 
Last edited:
One significant issue with the 115 volt AC feed from my on-board welder is that because of the nature of the AC generated, you can't use any power tools which have a variable speed trigger. If you do so, the trigger burns out almost immediately - with lots of cool smoke.

I was reminded of this during my recent trailer repair coming back from Moab. I didn't mention it, but the trigger on the drill we used burned out almost immediately when we tried to use it. After which, it would go wide open as soon as you plugged it in. We got it to work by my holding the drill, and my brother plugging and unplugging the thing to drill the holes on those shackles.

I like to carry corded tools on the rig and not have to worry about batteries, so I went looking for a new drill. But I could not find a decent single speed corded 1/2" drill (why would you need one of those?). So, picked up a Dewalt 1/2" variable speed corded drill, and figured I would rewire it for single speed. Here it is:

View attachment 254129

So I tore it apart and carefully opened up the trigger mechanism - these things really are not made to be serviced, so that took some doing. Turns out that the way it operates worked to my advantage. There is a chip in there that engages first and creates the reduced current flow for the variable speed control. This is the part which gets fried when you plug it into the Power Welder. But then when the trigger is fully engaged, it makes a pure mechanical connection between the inbound AC line and the motor.

View attachment 254130

So after the challenge of getting the switch apart, the mod turned out to be easy. All I had to do was cut all the connections to the chipset, reassemble to trigger, and put it all back together.

View attachment 254131

And just like that, I had a single speed 1/2" corded drill.

View attachment 254132


Damn you are just SO handy.... Great idea. I'll have to look into this. But then I'm adding weight back to my rig.
 
One significant issue with the 115 volt AC feed from my on-board welder is that because of the nature of the AC generated, you can't use any power tools which have a variable speed trigger. If you do so, the trigger burns out almost immediately - with lots of cool smoke. The reason is that the unit creates voltage which alternates at 7,000 hertz - compared to 60 hertz from regular US AC lines. This is also the reason the welder works to well.

I was reminded of this during my recent trailer repair coming back from Moab. I didn't mention it, but the trigger on the drill we used burned out almost immediately when we tried to use it. After which, it would go wide open as soon as you plugged it in. We got it to work by my holding the drill, and my brother plugging and unplugging the thing to drill the holes on those shackles.

I like to carry corded tools on the rig and not have to worry about batteries, so I went looking for a new drill. But I could not find a decent single speed corded 1/2" drill (why would you need one of those?). So, picked up a Dewalt 1/2" variable speed corded drill, and figured I would rewire it for single speed. Here it is:

View attachment 254129

So I tore it apart and carefully opened up the trigger mechanism - these things really are not made to be serviced, so that took some doing. Turns out that the way it operates worked to my advantage. There is a chip in there that engages first and creates the reduced current flow for the variable speed control. This is the part which gets fried when you plug it into the Power Welder. But then when the trigger is fully engaged, it makes a pure mechanical connection between the inbound AC line and the motor.

View attachment 254130

So after the challenge of getting the switch apart, the mod turned out to be easy. All I had to do was cut all the connections to the chipset, reassemble to trigger, and put it all back together.

View attachment 254131

And just like that, I had a single speed 1/2" corded drill - without any smoke...

View attachment 254132

So could you run a cordless tool battery charger off that thing? I have wondered from time to time about a permanently wired cordless tool battery charger in the back of the Jeep somehow...

My Denali has a 110 outlet that is supposedly 150w max... not sure if it would work with a power drill either though.
 
One significant issue with the 115 volt AC feed from my on-board welder is that because of the nature of the AC generated, you can't use any power tools which have a variable speed trigger. If you do so, the trigger burns out almost immediately - with lots of cool smoke. The reason is that the unit creates voltage which alternates at 7,000 hertz - compared to 60 hertz from regular US AC lines. This is also the reason the welder works to well.

I was reminded of this during my recent trailer repair coming back from Moab. I didn't mention it, but the trigger on the drill we used burned out almost immediately when we tried to use it. After which, it would go wide open as soon as you plugged it in. We got it to work by my holding the drill, and my brother plugging and unplugging the thing to drill the holes on those shackles.

I like to carry corded tools on the rig and not have to worry about batteries, so I went looking for a new drill. But I could not find a decent single speed corded 1/2" drill (why would you need one of those?). So, picked up a Dewalt 1/2" variable speed corded drill, and figured I would rewire it for single speed. Here it is:

View attachment 254129

So I tore it apart and carefully opened up the trigger mechanism - these things really are not made to be serviced, so that took some doing. Turns out that the way it operates worked to my advantage. There is a chip in there that engages first and creates the reduced current flow for the variable speed control. This is the part which gets fried when you plug it into the Power Welder. But then when the trigger is fully engaged, it makes a pure mechanical connection between the inbound AC line and the motor.

View attachment 254130

So after the challenge of getting the switch apart, the mod turned out to be easy. All I had to do was cut all the connections to the chipset, reassemble to trigger, and put it all back together.

View attachment 254131

And just like that, I had a single speed 1/2" corded drill - without any smoke...

View attachment 254132
4989E287-58F4-48F1-8673-B799A7401694.gif
 
So could you run a cordless tool battery charger off that thing? I have wondered from time to time about a permanently wired cordless tool battery charger in the back of the Jeep somehow...

My Denali has a 110 outlet that is supposedly 150w max... not sure if it would work with a power drill either though.
I’m actually not sure. If memory serves, it‘s not good for electronics. I’ll have to check - it’s been quite a while since I put that thing in the rig.
 
  • Like
Reactions: DaveF
So could you run a cordless tool battery charger off that thing? I have wondered from time to time about a permanently wired cordless tool battery charger in the back of the Jeep somehow...

My Denali has a 110 outlet that is supposedly 150w max... not sure if it would work with a power drill either though.
Your be better off buying a small inverter and running your charger off that. Those chargers don't pull to much current, so a 300 watt inverter should do it. My Milwaukee charger input is 120v at 2.1 amps... So that is about 250 watts.
 
  • Like
Reactions: FarFire70
So could you run a cordless tool battery charger off that thing? I have wondered from time to time about a permanently wired cordless tool battery charger in the back of the Jeep somehow...

My Denali has a 110 outlet that is supposedly 150w max... not sure if it would work with a power drill either though.

From Premier Power Welder's website.
Premier's control box has a 115-volt DC (maximum 2300 watts/20 amps) power-outlet jack for non-fluorescent lighting and brush-type power tools: grinders, drills, saws, and blenders, frying pans, blow driers, etc.

Is there any 110-volt tool the unit will NOT power?​

Any tool with a variable-speed motor will need to have the trigger pulled fully, the reason being that variable-speed switches are based on pulsating DC current; the Premier is based on a straight DC current. Therefore, it wants to travel through the variable-speed switch at full current. We do not recommend the use of this type of tool with the unit as it will eventually result in a burned-up trigger. The ONLY drill that we know of with a variable-speed trigger that will work with our unit and not burn out the trigger is the 3/8" or 1/2" Milwaukee Holeshooter.

http://premierpowerwelder.com/
 
Over the weekend I swapped in the new suspension components I picked up for the trailer on @Blackjack's recommendation. 3/8" shackles, heavy duty equalizers, bronze bushings and greaseable bolts.

IMG_7458.JPG


When I built the heavier shackles a couple of weeks ago, I noticed that the bushings were very worn, and needed to be replaced. And, much to my surprise the bushings were plastic.

Turns out replacing that running gear was was even more necessary than I thought. When I pulled the equalizers - this is what I saw:

IMG_0009.JPG

IMG_0011.JPG


My truck keeps track of the mileage on this trailer, and this was after 19,000 miles.

Anyway, I replaced and greased everything. Still considering what to do next.

IMG_0013.JPG


I've always spoken highly about this 10k pound Kaufman trailer - even recommended them to a couple buddies who wound up purchasing. I'm now disappointed. I have never exceeded the capacity of this thing - this should not have happened.
 
WOW looks like you did that at the right time. Which means I need to take a close look at mine and see what it looks like also.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Apparition
Over the weekend I swapped in the new suspension components I picked up for the trailer on @Blackjack's recommendation. 3/8" shackles, heavy duty equalizers, bronze bushings and greaseable bolts.

View attachment 254785

When I built the heavier shackles a couple of weeks ago, I noticed that the bushings were very worn, and needed to be replaced. And, much to my surprise the bushings were plastic.

Turns out replacing that running gear was was even more necessary than I thought. When I pulled the equalizers - this is what I saw:

View attachment 254786
View attachment 254787

My truck keeps track of the mileage on this trailer, and this was after 19,000 miles.

Anyway, I replaced and greased everything. Still considering what to do next.

View attachment 254788

I've always spoken highly about this 10k pound Kaufman trailer - even recommended them to a couple buddies who wound up purchasing. I'm now disappointed. I have never exceeded the capacity of this thing - this should not have happened.
Holy smokes! I think I'd be getting in contact with the mfg. That is unacceptable. Good thing you caught it!
 
Last edited:
Over the weekend I swapped in the new suspension components I picked up for the trailer on @Blackjack's recommendation. 3/8" shackles, heavy duty equalizers, bronze bushings and greaseable bolts.

View attachment 254785

When I built the heavier shackles a couple of weeks ago, I noticed that the bushings were very worn, and needed to be replaced. And, much to my surprise the bushings were plastic.

Turns out replacing that running gear was was even more necessary than I thought. When I pulled the equalizers - this is what I saw:

View attachment 254786
View attachment 254787

My truck keeps track of the mileage on this trailer, and this was after 19,000 miles.

Anyway, I replaced and greased everything. Still considering what to do next.

View attachment 254788

I've always spoken highly about this 10k pound Kaufman trailer - even recommended them to a couple buddies who wound up purchasing. I'm now disappointed. I have never exceeded the capacity of this thing - this should not have happened.
We see that kind of wear up here a lot especially with the nylon bushings and in less miles due to our fantastic roads. Now I will say that the running gear Kaufman is choosing to run is less expensive and they would be better served to use better stuff. But all these trailer builders are looking to sell at a price point and that is one place they do not always want to spend the money. Even worse is the wiring, I cannot tell you how many times I have had to basically gut a trailer and start from scratch.
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: DrDmoney
Did a little wheelin' over the weekend with a few of my hardcore buddies from Jeepforum.com. We hit Adventure Off Road Park (AOP), which is about 30 miles north west of Chattanooga, TN. We hit black after black after black, and it was definitely some intense wheelin'. Here are a few examples of the trails:

Here is Chris ('92 vegas YJ):

IMG_7656.jpg


And John (87TPIYJ):

IMG_0399.JPG


IMG_0221.JPG
 
  • Love
  • Like
Reactions: Bmxbry9 and Wildman
Here is a shot of the group I was with - Thanks to Chris and John for the invitation.

IMG_7539.JPG


I'm not used to being the little guy in the group, but everyone was really cool. Although Chris did keep pointing at me and laughing - not sure what that was about...

Everyone in the group was running tons, coilovers, air shocks or ORI's, high HP V8's, and the smallest tires were 40's (guess who?). Everyone but me was running full hydro and stickies. All crazy built rigs.

Here is Chris' stretched YJ on 42 Pitbulls - and a little taste of what his monster rig can do:

IMG_0461.JPG


Here is John and his big stretched YJ on 43's, and a taste of what his rig will do:

IMG_0237.JPG



It was a great weekend - John and Chris were tremendous hosts, and they even fed me dinner a couple of nights. Thanks again guys!

IMG_7528.JPG
 
Last edited:
My rig held up well, and no damage save a little crease in the driver's door. I hammered pretty hard on the new 14 bolt, and it delivered. I was often throwing the coal to it, and I'm pretty sure the old '60 would not have liked it...

Here are a couple of hill climbs in the rain - man was it slick...



And a few other random shots from the day:

IMG_0616.JPG


IMG_0008.JPG


IMG_0536.JPG
 
So after the trip, I'm already thinking seriously about my next project, and taking the rig to the next level. I'm giving serious thought to building a new high pinion kingpin 60 front axle - with full hydro to stretch it forward enough to run 43 stickies....
 
Nothing like the sound of a V-8 breathing and all 8 cylinders bellowing like crazy.

WOW 42-43" stickies?? But you've got the rig that can do it. I REALLY enjoy seeing the videos and seeing the different types of terrain in other places than just out here on the West coast. Look forward to reading and seeing what you do next. I of course thought 40" tires were BIG. Granted I know a few who run bigger tires here but it isn't common.
 
  • Like
Reactions: DrDmoney
Do it do it do it! Not that your rig isn’t sick enough already, but it can always get better.

Have you given any thought to a shaved 14b front axle? I think Crane offers them. They’re a common front axle for the WOD builds and at this point you’re a tube frame away from being on that level.