LIMP mode issue and P700 and P1776 codes after turning overdrive on

Skiff52

New Member
Joined
May 24, 2021
Messages
4
Location
Bremerton WA
I have a 2006 Wrangler. Getting P700 and P1776 error. Already replaced the PCM with a @Wranglerfix unit. I've been driving with overdrive turned off for 4 weeks and not had a problem. The first day I tried it with the overdrive it went into limp mode about 10 minutes into the drive when I was slowing after being up to highway speeds. Wondering if this information might narrow down the problem. I'm going to try driving it without overdrive for a few more weeks and see if it remains OK. The jeep has 85K and the fluid levels are good, color good, and no smell. This has been a great vehicle.


Appreciate any input.

One other thing it seems to lug down or shutter around 1800 rms when it shifts from second to third.

Thanks,

Matt...
 
  • Like
Reactions: Wranglerfix
Can't give you any technical advice, but it sounds like these issues came up after the Wranglerfix swap? If that's the case, how long has it had the Wranglerfix unit in it ad have you contacted them? I've had mine in for just about a year and haven't had any issues since.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Wranglerfix
Have you reached out to Mark (@Wranglerfix) by chance? I only ask because it seems like the issue may not have happened until you swapped the PCM and Mark is a very helpful guy when it comes to troubleshooting. Maybe it's just a coincidence, but I'd start with him first.

If not it sounds like the solenoid valve in your transmission could be going bad or having an issue with a broken / shorted wiring harness.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Wranglerfix
@Skiff52

The 0700 code a generic code caused by the 1776 code. 1776 leads back to:


  • Faulty Solenoid Switch Valve
  • Solenoid Switch Valve harness is open or shorted
  • Solenoid Switch Valve circuit poor electrical connection

  • have you checked the valve, harness and connections?
 
  • Like
Reactions: Chris
@Skiff52

The 0700 code a generic code caused by the 1776 code. 1776 leads back to:


  • Faulty Solenoid Switch Valve
  • Solenoid Switch Valve harness is open or shorted
  • Solenoid Switch Valve circuit poor electrical connection

  • have you checked the valve, harness and connections?
Cleaned and inspected connectors to the PCM. Nothing seen. Can't seem to find any information on where the harness plugs into the transmission. I've gotten a lot of information on troubleshooting to the signal level real time but I don't think I can do that. I don't want to replace the transmission and still have a problem. I understand that these transmissions are not very good or reliable. I looked on line at a company ATS transmission who have re-engineered it to beef up the problem areas in the transmission. Sounds good but that doesn't mean it is good. I pull this jeep behind my motorhome and having it reliable is very important.

Mark I don't think your board has anything to do with the problem.

Matt...
 
  • Like
Reactions: Wranglerfix
Here are three known wiring gremlins on the 05/06’s.

676B4A20-E437-4497-A4A5-56D432779171.jpeg


E8A15551-BDF4-4D30-99F6-5D868E6B6C72.png


67858087-EBF3-4C22-A771-6FD45AE92E73.jpeg
 
I have the same exact situation. 2005 Wrangler Unlimited Automatic transmission. 100,000 miles trouble free. Then started getting stupid codes. And corrected the supposed issues.

Then started getting funky shifting between 1st and 2nd when the engine is cold. Then one day after driving a paved mountain road with lots of switchbacks the check engine light came on, and it went into limp mode.

My repair guy told me it sounded like the transmission was going. A $4000 fix. I read about Wranglerfix and after putting it in, the transmission shifted beautifully for a week or so and then one day it shifted crappy again. I shut it off while going into a store and when I came back out and started it again it was shifting great again.

Reading different sites I learned about how to take it out of limp mode so I took it over a mountain road again to see if the new PCM from Wranglerfix corrected that as well as the 1st and 2nd gear issues. NOPE. It did it again. P0700 and P1776 codes.

I contacted Wranglerfix and I got the same text and pictures as were shown here but I see no evidence of wiring issues. So I'm back to where I started, spend $4000 on a new transmission or try to track down what is going on.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Wranglerfix
The 0700 code is a generic code saying something is wrong with the transmission side of the vehicle.

1776 comes back to:


  • Faulty Solenoid Switch Valve
  • Solenoid Switch Valve harness is open or shorted
  • Solenoid Switch Valve circuit poor electrical connection

  • Somewhere there is a broken wire, loose connection or a faulty solenoid switch valve.

 
The 0700 code is a generic code saying something is wrong with the transmission side of the vehicle.

1776 comes back to:


  • Faulty Solenoid Switch Valve
  • Solenoid Switch Valve harness is open or shorted
  • Solenoid Switch Valve circuit poor electrical connection

  • Somewhere there is a broken wire, loose connection or a faulty solenoid switch valve.
Thanks, but where are those located. Are they not inside the transmission.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Wranglerfix
Sounds like the same as me. I’ve been driving for weeks with the overdrive turned off and had no problems. With it on it continues to fail. Not sure what is going on. Afraid to spend $4k and not fix it!!!!
 
  • Like
Reactions: Wranglerfix
Sounds like the same as me. I’ve been driving for weeks with the overdrive turned off and had no problems. With it on it continues to fail. Not sure what is going on. Afraid to spend $4k and not fix it!!!!
I really don't remember in both cases if I had the overdrive on or off. I know I wasn't IN overdrive at the time as I was going up and down and around corners at 30-50 MPH.
 
To call myself a mechanic would be an insult to mechanics.

Thanks I saw that video and another one as well. Around $1000 to $1500 dollar fix I think. The one video said the guy had to actually do it twice because the first one didn't work right. One has to wonder with a 100,000 mile vehicle you just wouldn't bite the bullet and change the entire transmission for 4 grand. I guess that's where I'm at.
 
I have been fighting the same problem with my 05. It started about a year ago occasionally going into limp mode and throwing a P1776 code. It seemed to happen when it was hot out or when I was doing some slower trails where the transmission would get hot. Usually if I turned the engine off and then started it back up it would cycle through the gears fine one time and then back into limp mode, until the transmission cooled off a little then it seemed to work fine. About 3 or 4 weeks a go it got worse and would go into limp mode every time I drove it more than 20 or 30 minutes. Sense then I have invested a lot of time in research to figure out what exactly was going on with it and and I believe I have fixed it. I don't have a lot of miles on it yet, but it has been working very well.
What I found with the P1776 (Solenoid Switch Valve Latched in LR Position) is it is ether a bad solenoid pack, the actual switch valve getting stuck in the valve body of the transmission ether from ware or from contaminants or a damaged wire in the harness. I found a good transmission shop and was able to talk to one of the technicians and he told me that when he sees this problem, 50% of the time the solenoid pack is bad and 50% of the time its the switch valve getting stuck. What I ended up doing is dropping the pan on the transmission and removing the valve body assembly and taking it to this transmission shop. They were able to vacuum test the valve body for leaks and determined that the bore the switch valve rides in was worn out which will cause the switch valve to stick. You can buy an oversized switch valve from Sonnax or Transgo to fix this, but because I had some other leaks I decided to go with a remanufactured valve body from Sonnax. While I was in there I installed a new solenoid pack and a shift kit from Transgo. I also very carefully inspected all of the wire harness from the transmission to the PCU to ensure it was all good. I had previously installed a transmission temp gauge and with this fix the transmission runs cooler.
For what it's worth I hope this helps.
 
Thanks. What was the ball park that you paid to have the thing fixed.

I'm still wondering if it's worthwhile it to do repairs to a 100,000 mile transmission or bite the bullet and get a new one.
 
I think it's worth fixing the transmission if it's something easy like a bad solenoid pack etc. in the valve body. Mine kept locking up/going into limp mode and replacing the solenoid pack fixed mine two years ago and it's been fine since. I also installed a fresh range selector switch and Transgo Stage 1 shift kit at the same time for added insurance.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Wranglerfix
I was wondering the same thing about it being worthwhile except I have almost 210k on mine. The reason I decided to fix it is the transmission seemed to work fine when it wasn't in limp mode and I didn't want to waist half of our short summer getting it rebuilt or finding a reman one.
I did the work myself and I have less that $500 into it. Jerry has a very good write up on what he did and I followed that very closely, I just went the extra step of replacing the valve body. It was pretty easy and the extra step of replacing the valve body doesn't make a difference when following his write up. With 100k miles, I agree with Jerry that it's worth fixing.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Jerry Bransford
Thanks guys. Did these fixes fix the hard shift from 1st to 2nd when the engine/trans is cold.

That was my first issues which Wranglerfix seemed to correct, but then it didn't. The second issues was the 1776 code a couple of weeks later and the limp mode.

It sounds like your fixes are for the limp mode but the hard 1st to 2nd aren't mentioned.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Wranglerfix