Modoc Guy builds a Jeep

I’ve been putting 40 to 50 miles a day on the Jeep so I can start getting those new diff gears broken in.
And I’ve been driving it at a high enough speed to notice a little vibe coming from a DS.

I took a look at them after my drive today, and I definitely need to address the rear DS.

Other than that, everything seems to be working like it should. Except my cruise control.
And it would have worked perfectly if I’d have remembered to plug it back in after moving it while doing the brakes and ARB compressor!
:ROFLMAO:
 
Here’s the rough cutouts.

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A closer look.
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Now I need to grind the edges of the openings to clean up the rough cuts, then debur the edges around the openings.
After that, I’ll check the structure to see if I can put a few more holes in it. I want to lighten it as much as I can without weakening it.

I’ve got to pick up some wrinkle paint to touch up my paint damage, modify the mounting holes a little, then stick it back on the Jeep.

Then, it’ll be time to design a engine skid, fab it, then move on to the pump wiring. 😸
 
Well damn! I thought adjusting the rear pinion angle would be a snap, and fix what I thought was a minor issue. So much for that thought!

I got under the Jeep yesterday and loosened up the rear lower CA locknuts (which I found isn't a fun or easy task) and shortened up the CA's until there was no angle at the pinion yoke/driveline. Then I went for a test ride.

Instead of fixing the vibe, it seemed to have made it worse! It was late at that point, so I figured I'd think about it, and do something in the morning.

So last night I thought the best thing to do was pull a DS and see what happens. I debated which to do, and settled on the rear. I just had the front rebuilt, so I was banking on it being good.

This morning I unbolted it, but had a hell of a time collapsing it enough to get it out. Ah-ha! I think I just found the problem!

Took it for a ride, and it was smooth all the way up to about 52mph. And before, I could feel vibes even at less than 50mph.

So the DS is too long. Easy fix you say? I looked at Tom Woods' website, and he has no parts for TJ shafts for a couple weeks. That sucks!

But I do need a hybrid DS, a TJ shaft at the transmission, and a Rubicon at the diff pinion. So I'll give them a call tomorrow and see what the details are. Maybe they have whats needed to do a DS in my case.

Or I'll have to go to Driveline Service in Klamath Falls, and see if the guy there can shorten up what I have now.

Damn, it's always something! And I thought I was done spending money! :ROFLMAO:
 
Alternatively you can get a conversion joint. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CDNN27O/?tag=wranglerorg-20

IIRC I replaced the 1330 yoke with a 1310 on the axle end so I could use the same DS after trying to locate a spare conversion Ujoint once with no luck. Figured I'd swap to something else I could easily find in a pinch. Also liked the idea of the joint being the fuse.
 
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Alternatively you can get a conversion joint. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CDNN27O/?tag=wranglerorg-20

IIRC I replaced the 1330 yoke with a 1310 on the axle end so I could use the same DS after trying to locate a spare conversion Ujoint once with no luck. Figured I'd swap to something else I could easily find in a pinch. Also liked the idea of the joint being the fuse.
I’ve got a conversion joint in it now. But since I need a shorter DS, I figure I’ll get one with the correct yoke for the Rubi diff.
 
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Tom Woods is out of the parts needed to fab TJ rear driveshafts, I checked with them this morning. ☹️

So I contacted Adams Driveshaft and they’ll have a new DS to me by the end of this week. So I’m happy! 😸

So I guess I need to start wiring up my locker pumps.
And design my engine skid too. No rest for this old boy!
 
Not much going on right now, just waiting for my new rear DS to get here. And putting miles on the new front gears to break them in.

But I did try to fit a Rubicon switch panel in my 2002. That won’t work.
Well I guess that’s not true, it would, but the lighter/power socket things won’t because they hit the back of the cavity where the panel mounts. And if I cut a relief hole, I’d be cutting a hole in the heating/AC plenum or duct, so that ain’t happening.

Anybody need a Rubicon style switch panel! 🤣

So now I have to figure out a new spot for my switch mount, so it’s back to the drawing board!
 
But I did try to fit a Rubicon switch panel in my 2002. That won’t work.
Well I guess that’s not true, it would, but the lighter/power socket things won’t because they hit the back of the cavity where the panel mounts. And if I cut a relief hole, I’d be cutting a hole in the heating/AC plenum or duct, so that ain’t happening.

Anybody need a Rubicon style switch panel! 🤣

So now I have to figure out a new spot for my switch mount, so it’s back to the drawing board!

Have you thought about replacing the 12v sockets with USB ports (possibly shorter) and just run a 12v socket somewhere else (glovebox, console) if needed?
 
Have you thought about replacing the 12v sockets with USB ports (possibly shorter) and just run a 12v socket somewhere else (glovebox, console) if needed?
Yeah, but I bought the ARB switch panel and the matching switch for my rear locker pump. I’ll find a good place for it.

I really wasn’t liking the thought of cutting up the stock dash bezel, I kinda like the old school ash tray and lighter. 😸
 
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So, I’m actually pretty pissed right now. Haven’t been able to work out the vibration issue with the rear DS. It’s not the DS itself, I’m pretty sure it’s the angle.

Funny thing is, when I had the rear springs out and put them back in, the rear of the Jeep sat noticeably higher. And right now I don’t know what to do about that. That definitely affects DS angle.

But after thinking about it for a couple days, I noticed how the rear wheels are noticeably forward in the wheel wells. That tells me the whole rear end needs to move back, that would decrease the DS angle.

I’ve got stock upper CA’s front and rear, so I’ll need to get some adjustable upper CA’s and actually, they were on my list of “wanna get” stuff. I guess now I’m gonna get ‘em.

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Do you run an MML? I don't recall, and it's not listed in your profile. If not, that may be something to try for the vibes. Moving the axle back will not make enough of a difference to matter. Also, in moving the axle you need to be mindful of where the tire winds up at full stuff.

Jeep life, right? :)
 
Do you run an MML? I don't recall, and it's not listed in your profile. If not, that may be something to try for the vibes. Moving the axle back will not make enough of a difference to matter. Also, in moving the axle you need to be mindful of where the tire winds up at full stuff.

Jeep life, right? :)
No MML yet, but that’s definitely a possibility. That would certainly give me more angle at the DS cardan joint.
It was my first thought, but I was gonna try maybe a 1/2” spacer to start with.

But I’ll probably get my upper double adjustable control arms anyway. I like the Currie’s so I’ll at least grab the rear set.

I am getting close to my self imposed spending limit, but I knew the job was dangerous when I took it! 🤣

I’m confused about the whole issue though, given that I had a Dana 44 in it before, and I didn’t change any suspension components other than go from a drum brake Dana 44 to a Rubicon Dana 44. I had no vibration issues before the change at all. ☹️
 
Well, I've got a 3/4" MML in it now, and it didn't do all that much. I'll be spacing the belly skid down in the next couple days, along with putting in an adjustable track bar.

I measured the tire to body alignment, and the rear end is off toward the drivers side a 1/4" or so. And the track bar will fix that.

I've also discovered that my Rubi Dana 44, while being the same size as my old Dana 44, it's yoke is 1" longer. Which shortened up the space for the DS, and therefore increased it's angle.

To compensate for the longer yoke, I'll be adding adjustable upper CA's in the rear, and that along with my lower adjustables, I'll be able to move the diff back a little. That's gonna be interesting, cuz if it's moved back too far, it'll screw with my track bar and GTS. I'll need to cycle the suspension to see how far back I can go and still hit my bump stops, but not anything else. This'll be interesting! :unsure:

Plus, since I've jacked all these angles around, I'll be putting in a cable adapter for my 4X4 shift lever. I've planned on putting in a Novak for a long time, but now it's not a choice, it's a necessity.

I haven't posted my progress in a while. I had to get over being pissed about this stupid setback, plus I've been working on welding up the trunk pan and Detroit wheel tubs in the Kid's '73 Nova coupe. And I've been setting up the new turbo-back exhaust in the ranch dump truck, so kind of a busy schedule.

So, new parts are on their way.

That seems to be the never ending mantra of the Jeep owner, "waiting on parts" :ROFLMAO:
 
So now the rear upper CA’s are in sending the whole axle back a good 1/2”. Plus I put 1/2” spacers at the belly skid.

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You can see how much I moved it back by looking at the DS. You couldn’t see bare shaft before, now you can.

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But I still have vibration.

I checked the DS angles vs the pinion and transmission. The pinion vs DS was 0 degrees ( I might point the pinion down one degree later when I sort this out) the transmission vs DS was 3 degrees.
Almost straight! 3 degrees is nothing. Can’t understand why it’s still making noise.

So now I’ve got 1” MML blocks, and an aluminum spacer for the belly skid that will space the skid down 1” as well.

Since I’m putting the engine/transmission at such a steep angle, I’ll be installing a Savvy t-case cable shifter, and while the skid’s off, I’ll install the deep sump transmission pan.

I’m waiting for the Savvy shifter right now. Once it’s here I’ll install everything with the hope that it’ll cure the DS vibration.

I may have to re-adjust the rear CS’s a little, might have over done it. I still need to cycle my suspension to check clearances.
The bump stops line up much better, and the pumpkin looks like it has decent clearance.

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So, if I understand this correctly, I should cycle the suspension without springs and shocks?

Or is there a better/easier way?
 
Don't forget to unhook the sway bar as well when cycling.
 
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OK, yesterday I put the 1” MML blocks in. And today, I got the 1” belly skid drop done. 👍

Also installed the Savvy t-case cable shift kit, and the Mopar deep transmission pan! 😸

Had to bump the fan shroud up again, I only moved it up 1/2” with the 3/4” MML, so I pushed it up almost an inch and it has good clearance now.

I checked my DS angles and now my transmission is at 10 degrees, DS is at 10 degrees, and the diff’s at 9 degrees.

It should be perfect now I hope. I would have taken it out for a test drive, but I’m about a quart low on transmission fluid. ☹️

Still got a few things mechanical to do before I can call that portion done. I need some longer bolts for the belly skid, and I wanna cycle the rear suspension to make sure everything does what it’s supposed to do.

Then it’s wiring time! Got to wire the ARB pump and locker switches. And I need to order a relay to wire the Rubicon locker pump too.

So I think it’s safe to say I’m getting close to being done! Well at least with this phase of Jeep build.

Cuz I swear Jeeps are like the Winchester Mystery House....
“keep building!” 🤣