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I run Air Lift 1000 kit #60811 red balloons in mine to give it a boost when pulling a trailer. The other 99% of the time I don't notice them at all. I still get full articulation of the rear axle with the minimum 5 PSI in the system. If you need air bags, these work well for me.

Like @LONGJP2 said, with that type of driveshaft, your pinion should be parallel with the TC shaft. I have a 2.5" lift on my LJ, and recently installed the UCF Extra Clearance skid, too. I thought I would be able to get by with the OEM driveshaft, but the combination of the spring lift and the...

Actually, the same spacers which go on the front of TJs goes on the rear, too. As I recall, they state this somewhere on their website, but on another page they forgot to say so. In any case, I have identical 1" StreetRays spacers on the front and rear of my LJ to add a little lift to my OME...

Evidently there are quite a few of us with a Crown OPDA on the shelf. Some people have no problems replacing it, and some have a terrible time getting it set correctly, no matter how careful they are. Mine's on the shelf because I don't know which side of the coin flip I'll get. If I knew...

Or, for less money than those plastic spacers, you can get aluminum ones from StreetRays.com. To install spacers, you have to remove the springs. You might just want to replace the springs with stock ones while you're doing that. OMIX rear coil springs are $77 each.

Just imagine how free you'll feel after you drill that mount and install that TB. Can't go back, now you're free to spend more money and modify more stuff. It worked for me. :)

Perhaps you meant Mister Blaine, not Plain Blaine who hasn't been seen since 2015.

Your rear pinion angle is too high for that type of driveshaft. With 2 U-joints, the pinion shaft should be parallel to the transfer case shaft. Read this and watch the excellent videos: https://4xshaft.com/blogs/general-tech-info-articles/driveshaft-angles

It's a Rocky Mountain Edition, it needs the hard top to keep the snow and ice out. :) Only you can decide if you want a soft top or not. Or a bikini top, if you're not sure. Flip a coin if you have to. If you put a soft top on it, the hard top will be easier to clean up and paint, sitting...

And since your friend drives an automatic, why did he think he could handle a manual? :)

Factory control arms look a little wimpy - on purpose. They flex. Good aftermarket control arms have at least one end which flexes (twists). Solid control arms don't have enough flex, and when you get one tire high and one tire low offroad, the control arms can twist off the mounts.

Nope, they're flex-rubber, no grease.

Every Jeep is a little different, hence the mixed reviews you saw. Shocks are one of the biggest contributors to how it will ride. What shocks come with the kit you're looking at?

What do your control arms look like? Looks like a solid far end, how about the axle end? If they're solid on both ends they might have caused that twist.

Suggestion: Use a title that tells us what the thread is about.

When you get your new tires installed, check the air pressure. Many (most?) tire shops will put WAY too much pressure in them. For 33-inchers on a TJ, 26 or 27 PSI is about right. If it feels wonky on the way home, it might feel a lot better after you set the correct pressure (for both steering...

Tom Wood’s recommends every 6000 miles, or with every oil change, or whenever you run through a lot of water and dirt – and you have to grease the cardan center ball anyway, and possibly the slip yoke. I figured that if I had to grease the center ball anyway, I could do the U-joints too. But I...

Another place which has a "solid reputation" is Tom Wood's Custom Drive Shafts. When I talked with Shawn, he recommended the greaseable U-joints over the non-greaseable, at least for my particular use. I figure he just might know a thing or two about driveshafts and U-joints. :)

Hint: Loosen your fill plug before draining it — only because draining it and then finding out you can't get the fill plug loose really would suck.

Are your rear shocks the right length for the lift you actually got back there? Does the shaft normally sit at about half of the travel? If the shocks are too long, they'll fully compress and thump hard as the axle goes up. Too short and they'll fully extend and thump hard as the axle goes...