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For leaks, if the ac mechanic used a leak dye test, then a u/v light in a dark garage or at night should show up . For the heater core, there are2 places to check. The first, and easiest is to take off the cowl right behind the hood and check for buildup. The next, is not so pretty. You would...

If it needs to be refiled, you have a leak. It is a closed sealed system. Having went to school and getting my A/C ASE cert, ive learned allot that i never thought of. If your system leaks all the way out , you should fix the leak (usually an oring), then right before you are going to oull...

Also, once you get the OPDA out, shine a flashlight down the rabbit hole and look T the camshaft gear. If your OPDA gear is jacked up, there is a chance your camshaft gear is as well. Unfortunately, the only way to fix this involves a new camshaft.

I changed mine approx 6 months ago. Just make sure when you do change it, that you put the new one in exactly how the old one came out or use a scan tool (make sure the scan tool has this special line) to make sure your cam/crank differential percentage is within spec ( i believe it is +/- 8...

If i remember correctly, only the 2005-2006 wrangler have the OPDA ( large round black top). 1997- 2004 have what is called the camshaft synchronizer (little gray top).

If you don't have the proper scan tool to read the correlation, the only real way to know if you are in limits is if your jeep doesn't either get the check engine light or go into limp mode. The ecm is designed to go into limp mode if you fall outside of degree tolerances. The stealership...

I did check it and clean everything in there. Also while you have the box out, check all actuator levers for cracks. The smallest Crack will break eventually.

I didn't, but the entire heater box has to come out and be separated. I took plenty of photos to be able to get it back together. If there ever was a time to replace it, this would be it.

I will say this, put the evaporator in first. That is what took the most time. Entire dash had to be loosened and I shifted the passenger side out and up, held by a ratchet strap to the roll bar. I did the compressor next. After those two,everything else went quick.

Sorry for the typos. Uuuggh,I hate typing on phones.

I have an 05 wrangler. The kit for like oem. I had a problem with the control head diverting to defrost. Took about 2 weeks to get fixed. In the end, they sent me a total of 3 control heads and a vacuum harness. I can not praise then enough for the customer service. They will get you...

It's been a frustrating process to say the least. Glad I didn't tear the box out again to check all the actuators and vacuum lines. I will say, JeepAir has been awesome with trying to find the issue. In total they sent me three control heads and a vacuum harness during this process. I know...

Jeep air sent me a 2004 control head and a vacuum harness. Everything is working now. I even switched my harness back in and it still works. So, the 2004 dared ac control head works and the late ac co trol heads don't work. So anybody who may install this kit, and you run into defrost only...

My box has black plastic vacuum actuators. I believe this is the same side as yours.

Also I hooked the mighty ac to the black vacuum hose, started it and measured the engine vacuum.

So I pulled the control head off and used a mighty ac to pull light vacuum on all hoses at the connector. All hold vacuum. Any suggestions for next step?

That would be great.

I would've thought the new control head should divert the vacuum where it needed to go and vent what needed to vent, hence the ac version and non ac version. They said it is plug and play.

I contacted jeep air and they sent me the second control panel. When that didn't work they said it has to be my vacuum system.