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I repainted my hardtop and got that back on earlier today…put the boom mat inside also which made a huge difference as far as not freezing during this arctic unpleasantness. It’s now also sporting 245/75r16 Cooper Snow Claws on new silver Quadratec Baja 16x8s which I covered with repainted...

Ahhh…they have their roots in Jeep same as Toyota and Mahindra though.

I chose my tires based on higher tread thickness and overall weight savings…which definitely translates to less sidewall and carcass meat. A mostly sound compromise for a highway and farm access Jeep. Maybe just a bit more risk for puncture situations. We’ll see what happens.

I assume this is just a dressed up JK, but it’s a pretty cool design.

Ended up filling/covering it with vulcanized rubber cement. I could still see rubber at the bottom of the puncture.

That’s what my tire guy said, but he’s also in the business of selling tires.

I need to get an air pump. This will expedite it.

How thick is the carcass on a C rated tire? I just pulled a piece of broken tail light out from between some treads and it was in there about 1/4”. No leaks obviously, but just wondering if that spot will be weak going forward.

Project Farm always does a good job with testing and comparison of all thing—oil included. https://youtube.com/playlist?list=PLjT3B9r2z3fXlvbP3tb9e056Q8O5krrCW

I used the standard size chain. The wider chain needs a conversion to run. I’m pretty sure it is unnecessary except very high torque applications.

A lot of the hog nose rings can be damaged in disassembly and reassembly, so if possible I’d avoid pulling it apart.

I went with it. No difference noted. They include Timken bearings and I got the Borg Warner chain also. It works like stock.

I installed 1.7:1 Harland Sharp roller rockers when I put the header on, so I can’t attest to how much the butt dyno would’ve changed with the header itself, but the combo has added significant power. It’s all available in the mid range too. The roller rockers cost me a little low end torque, so...

Sorry about the wait. It’s a busy time of the year.

I will be servicing it in a few days and can take a pic then.

I flush the whole frame and undercarriage every spring with salt-away. Salt corrosion can’t occurs below freezing, it’s the buildup that’s there when it warms in the spring that allows it to oxidize during the warm months. It’s also why I don’t park in the garage. My attached garage is usually...

Yup. I was surprised AMSOIL was cheapest per ounce, but there’s a lot of cosmoline aerosols available.

I kicked fluid film to the curb after using cosmoline. The AMSOIL heavy duty metal protector aerosolized cosmoline is the cheapest per ounce I’ve found. When it dries it will form a hard, amber colored surface that lasts WAY longer than fluid film. Cosmoline is traditionally used to store rifles...

I found I didn’t even get a full inch with my 4.0, so there probably won’t be much of an issue for your SE. They feel quite stiff and I don’t care much for how they feel combined with the Rancho RS5000Xs. You might want to stick with stock replacement springs and do a .75” spacer for the rear...

I’ve got about 38k miles on them and there is 6/32” of tread left. They’re holding up well in the rear, but the front has had some uneven wear waiting to get all my front end rebuilt. Now that I got that done, I’m going to put fresh ones on. I ordered more A/TXs without hesitation.