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Unless you are running tons and 40s there is little reason not to stay with 1310 series shafts on a TJ. It does little good to go with 1350 shafts and make your ring and pinions the weak link. Service your shafts with Spicer SPL ujoints and appropriate double cardan components or if you do...

Yes they are separate and include upper arm mounts for the axle as well. Let me know what you need and I will add it to the list to scrounge for.

You will have to add $500 to that for the rear uppers they did not include in the kit.

Ok I will get to scrounging and see what I can find.

They actually worked together to control intake pulsation. While some would argue they may help with power they are primarily for noise abatement.

Ok so that should leave two small MTPEG bushings for the front, four small race kits for the rear upper superflex joints and four large races for the lower arm superflex joints. Those I know I have some for you. Do you need any of the inner balls, adjusters, or washers?

So do the rear uppers have superflex joints on both ends or a mtpeg on one? I may be able to fine some parts for you. RE was very popular up here so I possibly could scrounge up some stuff for you.

So what parts do you need for your RE kit? Does you long arm use clevite bushings are the MTPEG ones?

Blaine is correct. A bit of corrosion is the first thing to check for. You will want a tube of grease and the two gaskets for the gear box before you take it apart.

Warn originally used clear silicone but I use Ultra Black as that is what I keep around. Once you get it apart give me a list and I will round up what you need.

I knew that was coming. Why is that not hose?

At my day job I get asked a lot about materials like what is used for driveline construction, what should be used for things like control arms for buggies or what should be used for building ATV trailers. Led to getting into a conversation with an oilfield welder a week ago that told me there...

G2 44s are based off of JK 44 stuff that is why you see the crush collar eliminator.

If someone were to ask how I would build these I would build three matching panels. The boards would act as the spreaders for the the top and couple flat bar Xs take care of any racking. That way it could be shipped flat and easily assembled with a handful of fasteners.

Could easily halve the number of vertical supports but needs some angle gussets to reduce side racking.

I am with Chris with this one. What are you trying to gain with the swap? I am not against like a HP30 swap as they are not too hard to find and help a touch with driveshaft angles with 4 inch lifts but they only offer a marginal strength gain.

Keen optional insole https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N4KEXMC?tag=wranglerorg-20 They require you to either run a half size larger boot or wait for them to break in a bit. For me being on concrete all day they are a must. The Milwaukee last for me until I break the sole. I went with mids...

Work boots have been using Keen Milwaukee and with regular insole changes (I use the K20) I get a couple years out of them before my fat ass starts breaking them down. Non work currently is Keen Targhee Vent which I do like better than the Merrill Moab 2 that I had before that.

They got lucky on that one for sure.

What diameter is the tube on your existing driveshaft? With 5.13 gears and 33s your driveshaft speed at 65 mph is hovering around 3400 rpm give or take. So your driveshaft needs to be in good working order and very well balanced. An even after you get 35s I would avoid trying to drive fast...