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Ok I've been saying I would do this and I'm tired of welding this frame back together every time I wheel so I bought a near mint 06 frame to swap into my 97.

You should have the full weight of the vehicle on the ground and consider full gas tank and usual cargo load when setting pinion angle.

My thoughts exactly

Those look nice actually.

Something like this. https://www.quadratec.com/products/16007_008.htm Or if you want, you can get they whole kit https://www.quadratec.com/products/16007_007.htm I still have the stock gas tank skid (for now) and its been fine but it dents easily if you rock crawl.

I never put them back on and I haven't noticed anything negative about not having them.

Good call, I forgot about those two. Made my life much easier especially with the cable shifter.

They're long arms from a Teraflex kit https://www.quadratec.com/products/16197_209_07.htm

Your setup should look like this You'll need SYE Extended CV Driveshaft Adjustable UCA's/LCA's or both You may also want Rear Shock Mount Extension Brackets

Maybe with todays advances in metallurgy its a moot point altogether lol. Its possible these pinions are way stronger than their predecessors.

Something in my gut tells me its a leverage issue. The pinion is being supported very close to the rear and very close to the head by two bearings. When you shim behind the inner race you're keeping that bearing support on the pinion shaft in the same location no matter the shim depth. If you...

In the FSM under 194 RBI Rear Axle (PDF Pages 188 and 189) Figure 36 and Figure 38 show the proper placement for the Oil Slinger and the Shims. The Pinion depth shims should be behind the inner bearing race. When I rebuilt my D-35 I bought an extra inner bearing race and turned it into a setup...

I don't have 30 years experience like Mrhp, but I do my own gears. I would run that pattern as along as the BL is within spec. *Edit* I hope you mean the BL is 0.007" and not 0.07".

I just did a gear break in recently, where they were set up on the tight end of the spec. The diff was hot to the touch, like hot enough I didn't want to hold my hand on it but its subjective what actually makes something hot. Get a temp reading and post it up, some of these guys on here are...

By any chance did you happen to notice high idle or hunting rpm's when in neutral/park, or sitting at a stop light?

Correct and yep those are TF long arms

Believe me, I want this frame in scrapyard as soon as humanly possible. I've put a lot of time and effort into this build and I fell in love with the TJ platform along the way. Its well worth the $2k price tag.

Replacement frame in the works, but yes this is what was used to secure the stock skid before i did all the mods. Those are 27mm conical lugs lol

This is the janky crap the previous owner did to my Jeep when the repaired the frame. Those are wheel studs and nuts probably from a semi. It's solid but redneck as hell. Only a matter of time before I catch one or all of these on a rock and rip the plate off altogether.

I never understood why Jeep decided to do that. I mean really why not a bolt in cross member and a separate skid? Cost savings?